[Z06] ZIP TIE mod done
#1
ZIP TIE mod done
I did the zip tie mod last night. I can say to anyone thinking of doing this, it's super easy! Took me about 30 min total. This is my first mod, and I'm just so proud right now .
The only problem I ran into was getting the MAF plug off of the sensor. You have to remove the gray tab by prying the black locking tab up slightly while working the gray tab out from underneath of it. Be careful, my gray tab shot off into the front bumper. I was able to recover it once the air box was out.
After removing the gray tab, take the same black tab you had to pry up, and press it down while pulling on the plug.
Pop off the two front rubber mounts, the two upper rubber mounts and loosen from throttle body. DONE!
I bought some 18 inch black zips from Lowe's. They're as fat as the stock metal straps your'e going to remove. Really heavy duty. I wish I had pictures of how I made the new straps because I think I worked out something very clever.
If anyone is really interested in how I worked the ties, I may be able to snap some pics or try to explain.
I used the stock filter clamps to retain the ease of filter replacement. Got the tension just where I wanted it and reinstalled. I left about 6 inches of extra tie for now in case I have to make adjustments to the tension.
I took it for a spin for a few miles, and I really did notice a difference in acceleration and speed. WOW. Like a big difference. After I got it home I did the PCM relearn procedure just for piece of mind.
Procedure here, by C5XTASY: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ull-fuses.html
Front hood seal is on it's way to me, and I'll be buying a k&n filter to replace the stock paper one. Both for protection against excess water, dirt and dust.
I'll update after a few days of driving to really let you all know how it performs.
The only problem I ran into was getting the MAF plug off of the sensor. You have to remove the gray tab by prying the black locking tab up slightly while working the gray tab out from underneath of it. Be careful, my gray tab shot off into the front bumper. I was able to recover it once the air box was out.
After removing the gray tab, take the same black tab you had to pry up, and press it down while pulling on the plug.
Pop off the two front rubber mounts, the two upper rubber mounts and loosen from throttle body. DONE!
I bought some 18 inch black zips from Lowe's. They're as fat as the stock metal straps your'e going to remove. Really heavy duty. I wish I had pictures of how I made the new straps because I think I worked out something very clever.
If anyone is really interested in how I worked the ties, I may be able to snap some pics or try to explain.
I used the stock filter clamps to retain the ease of filter replacement. Got the tension just where I wanted it and reinstalled. I left about 6 inches of extra tie for now in case I have to make adjustments to the tension.
I took it for a spin for a few miles, and I really did notice a difference in acceleration and speed. WOW. Like a big difference. After I got it home I did the PCM relearn procedure just for piece of mind.
Procedure here, by C5XTASY: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ull-fuses.html
Front hood seal is on it's way to me, and I'll be buying a k&n filter to replace the stock paper one. Both for protection against excess water, dirt and dust.
I'll update after a few days of driving to really let you all know how it performs.
Last edited by dylans; 07-12-2016 at 08:51 AM.
#2
Nice job, zip-tie is a nice free mod to get your feet wet.
If you want to try another free mod you could perform the tb bypass. I have no idea if it makes a difference or not but I don't see how it could hurt.
If you want to try another free mod you could perform the tb bypass. I have no idea if it makes a difference or not but I don't see how it could hurt.
#4
From the factory, coolant passes through the throttle body. It's my understanding that this feature was employed to aid cold starts in freezing temps which potentially could prevent the tb blade from getting stuck/frozen. It seems reasonable that this feature could potentially increase the temperature of the incoming air into the intake manifold, although air is moving pretty darn quick when you have her opened up so who knows. Anyways, many people simply bypass the throttle body altogether. I can attest that the throttle body will be cooler by the touch than prior to the bypass but I have no measurable performance data to back up the effectiveness of the mod. However, it is relatively free (maybe a couple bucks for a hose barb and clamps) so I figured why not because I like to tinker. Done it on my LT1 about 10 years ago too.
Here's a link with pics:
http://www.corvettedreams.com/bypass.htm
Here's a link with pics:
http://www.corvettedreams.com/bypass.htm
Last edited by wrkdWS6; 07-12-2016 at 11:21 AM.
#6
I decided to skip the tb bypass. I did the idle relearn after the zip tie mod, but havent driven it much since. How long until it really learns the new flow?
Last edited by dylans; 05-08-2017 at 11:21 PM.
#7
I decided to skip the tb bypass. I did the idle relearn after the zip tie mod, but havent driven it much since. How long until it really learns the new flow?
I just also did the side bolster mod. I'm 5'11" and 150. The seats hold me now. Nice and tight! I recommend the mod to anyone who needs a tighter seat.
I just also did the side bolster mod. I'm 5'11" and 150. The seats hold me now. Nice and tight! I recommend the mod to anyone who needs a tighter seat.
#8
Race Director
I decided to skip the tb bypass. I did the idle relearn after the zip tie mod, but havent driven it much since. How long until it really learns the new flow?
I just also did the side bolster mod. I'm 5'11" and 150. The seats hold me now. Nice and tight! I recommend the mod to anyone who needs a tighter seat.
I just also did the side bolster mod. I'm 5'11" and 150. The seats hold me now. Nice and tight! I recommend the mod to anyone who needs a tighter seat.
#9
I followed a certain procedure that involved pulling number 16 and number 23 fuse from the engine bay fuse block. A series of starts and idling and shutting down after. I may not have needed to do it, but figured it couldn't hurt.
Last edited by dylans; 05-08-2017 at 11:22 PM.
#11
#13
Pro
I did the seat mod on mine and it made a big difference for me at 5' 10" and 165 lbs.I did take the seat out as it made it easier for me.I did NOT do the passenger seat as the wife sat in the modded seat and didn't care for the fit.She is 5'8" 150 lbs.You might want to be mindful of who your passengers are as the modded seat is snug for women with some curves.
#17
You take the top of the air box off, and to hold pressure on the filter frame, you use large zip ties. Results are a fully open air filter. Much better flow. Many people show positive dyno results. Whp and wtq gains.
I bought a front hood seal to add more dirt and water protection to the exposed filter. Though the new set up really is the same amount of exposure as a cai kit. I will also purchase a k&n for beter flow and protection. Easy. Done in 20 min.
I did the zip ties a little differently so I could use the stock frame clips so I can still change filters easily.
I bought a front hood seal to add more dirt and water protection to the exposed filter. Though the new set up really is the same amount of exposure as a cai kit. I will also purchase a k&n for beter flow and protection. Easy. Done in 20 min.
I did the zip ties a little differently so I could use the stock frame clips so I can still change filters easily.
#18
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On a related note, would a smooth silicone coupler between the air bridge and throttle body flow more air than the stock accordion-style coupler which creates air turbulence?
I'm also curious on which size silicone coupler is needed if this holds true.
EDIT/UPDATE: Just to follow up on my post here- based on some reading on other technical forums, the accordion hose is needed (versus a smooth hose) to create air turbulence. Apparently turbulent air mixed better with fuel. I guess there's a reason that even modern day Ferrari engines (like the 458) still use an accordion-style hose/coupler leading up to the throttle body.
I'm also curious on which size silicone coupler is needed if this holds true.
EDIT/UPDATE: Just to follow up on my post here- based on some reading on other technical forums, the accordion hose is needed (versus a smooth hose) to create air turbulence. Apparently turbulent air mixed better with fuel. I guess there's a reason that even modern day Ferrari engines (like the 458) still use an accordion-style hose/coupler leading up to the throttle body.
Last edited by ArmchairArchitect; 08-15-2018 at 05:38 PM.
#19
Melting Slicks
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