Screw in rear tire
#22
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#23
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#24
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I disagree with Wolfdogs above. I think the plug is fine...even though there is no tire manufacturer that says so. Wolfdogs is a former US Government tire engineer, so there is no reason to think that he would know the best way to repair a tire. The car is not a high performance car and neither is the tire a high performance tire.
The important thing is to do what is easy and fast and may ultimately work well enough. The plug will probably hold air and probably won't damage the tire...which is plenty good enough.
In spite of what every tire manufacturer and our own retired tire engineer say, it will probably be fine to just plug it.
The important thing is to do what is easy and fast and may ultimately work well enough. The plug will probably hold air and probably won't damage the tire...which is plenty good enough.
In spite of what every tire manufacturer and our own retired tire engineer say, it will probably be fine to just plug it.
#25
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Personally, a hole plugged only on the outside of a tire is not a tire I would trust at high speed. Certainly not at speeds over 100.
If you remove the tire from the wheel and plug it, I would trust it in normal driving but I'd sill be antsy about seriously high speeds at the track.
If you remove the tire from the wheel and plug it, I would trust it in normal driving but I'd sill be antsy about seriously high speeds at the track.
#26
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Agree but, it all depends on how it was 'plugged' and the type of 'plug' used. Some plugs are just that, a bullet looking rubber plug, some plugs are long skinny strings that have to be soaked in glue and shoved in the hole. Others, and the best in my opinion, based on five successful 'plugs' on the rears of high HP sport bikes, is the short and fat glue impregnated worm that comes in Genuine Innovations tire repair kits. They are found online and are available in lots of outlets. Of course, I wouldn't think of holding the manufacturer liable for running them at speed. I have however, exceeded the speed limits on repaired tires and none of them have ever leaked or caused any drama. I believe that over time and heat cycles (mileage) the plug vulcanizes to the tire. Remember too that you can never tell in advance just how bad the cord has separated due usually to the type of object that punctured the tire. Large or crooked/serrated edged objects tear up the cord much more than a simple nail or small screw. You can fix the air leak but the tire can still be comprised. Even with FS WO RFs,I carry a G.I. repair kit. If I pick up a nail in the middle of Monument Valley or Montana I'd rather try to plug it than be at the mercy of a tire shop that probably doesn't have the tire I need in stock anyway.
#28
Melting Slicks
I'm still trying to figure out how the screws get themselves so perfectly straight into the tire. I can't imagine it was standing on end when the tire rolled over it. I've had this happen twice in the last 6 months. Both times the screw is "installed" perfectly. How the heck does that actually happen?
#29
Melting Slicks
Hmmm....and now that I'm looking at those pictures again, it's amazing how many small rocks the tires pick up each rotation. The plastic inside those wheel wells must get sand blasted!
#30
Safety Car
A "screw in" rear tire?????
My first thought was... "Wouldn't they unscrew themselves, and fall off, if you back up? I'm sure glad my rear tires use LUG NUTS..."
Sorry, I just couldn't resist...its early here...
My first thought was... "Wouldn't they unscrew themselves, and fall off, if you back up? I'm sure glad my rear tires use LUG NUTS..."
Sorry, I just couldn't resist...its early here...
#31
Melting Slicks
This is a good video showing how a proper tire repair is done. It's long (15 min) and there's some product pitching going on, but it's still good info if you've never actually seen this done before. This is why a proper tire repair will cost you $25+.
#32
Very informative.... thanks
#33
Le Mans Master
I'll freely admit I know nothing about repairing tires but think about it for a second. You have a tire plugged and the air pressure inside is constantly trying to push the plug out.
You have the tire removed and have a patch repair and now the air pressure inside is actually helping to hold the patch in position.
Plug n patch seems to make the best common sense approach.
You have the tire removed and have a patch repair and now the air pressure inside is actually helping to hold the patch in position.
Plug n patch seems to make the best common sense approach.
#35
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
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St. Jude Donor '13
Goodyear allows 1 patch and keep the speed rating, second patch is allowed but speed rating is gone.
IIRC, Michelin only allows 1 patch and that eliminates the speed rating.
Firestone says you're not allowed to patch their C6 runflats at all (I phoned the home office), but many shops don't know or don't care and will patch them. Lawyers gone wild.
On average; it seems like about 50% of punctures are patch-able, the other 50% are too large, or in the wrong location, or irregular shape.
That's presuming you didn't drive very far on the flat, your Owner Manual has numbers for that.
#36
☠☣☢ Semper Ebrius ☢☣☠
#37
Race Director
I p/u nails, etc. more times than I like. It's very annoying to say the least. And, they seem to be in the place of the tire that I can't easily see. If I had to buy a new tire every time this has happened, I'd have more tied up in tires than the cost of my vette (lol). Plus, there's alway's the part about the mechanic scratching/damaging the wheel. Anyway, so far plugs have done just fine. Oh wait, have yet another leak in the pass rear as we speak. Now have to find the culprit and see if it's "plug worthy".
Last edited by GotVett?; 05-03-2013 at 06:43 PM.