Driveshaft/Torque tube woes on EXTREME builds? SOLVED!
04-22-2009, 02:54 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Driveshaft/Torque tube woes on EXTREME builds? SOLVED!
I started having torque tube/coupler issues after climbing past the 900 RWHP mark so we had to figure something out to harness the power (consistently).
Here are a couple pictures of what we did:
The other end:
Now, these won't mean much to you unless you've actually had torque tube issues or are pulling one apart and pre-empting broken parts.
With that being said, you'll notice aftermarket bolts from fastenall (longer), the retaining nuts, Aluminum couplers from LG and an HD driveshaft from Hinson Supercars (buy the Carbon Fiber driveshaft if you haven't yet purchased one).
In addition to this, I'm about to weld the outer flanges where the driveshaft connects to the aluminum couplers for added strength and durability.
The bolt/nut pattern is 12 x 1.75
Once you make 1,200+ RWHP and actually try to drag race the car (with a six speed), you will find the torque tube is a SERIOUS weak link. The above mods SHOULD remedy the situation! (now I'll blow out that freshly built tranny or rear-end
)
Feel free to ask questions or post comments here as I hope this will be the do-all end-all thread for folks with driveshaft/torque tube issues.
(NICK, You're gonna need to do this for that Twin 72mm MONSTER you're building! I hate you!!
)
I really think this sucker is bullet proof at this point!
Here are a couple pictures of what we did:
The other end:
Now, these won't mean much to you unless you've actually had torque tube issues or are pulling one apart and pre-empting broken parts.
With that being said, you'll notice aftermarket bolts from fastenall (longer), the retaining nuts, Aluminum couplers from LG and an HD driveshaft from Hinson Supercars (buy the Carbon Fiber driveshaft if you haven't yet purchased one).
In addition to this, I'm about to weld the outer flanges where the driveshaft connects to the aluminum couplers for added strength and durability.
The bolt/nut pattern is 12 x 1.75
Once you make 1,200+ RWHP and actually try to drag race the car (with a six speed), you will find the torque tube is a SERIOUS weak link. The above mods SHOULD remedy the situation! (now I'll blow out that freshly built tranny or rear-end
)Feel free to ask questions or post comments here as I hope this will be the do-all end-all thread for folks with driveshaft/torque tube issues.
(NICK, You're gonna need to do this for that Twin 72mm MONSTER you're building! I hate you!!
)I really think this sucker is bullet proof at this point!
Last edited by EdwardETraylorIII; 04-22-2009 at 02:56 PM. Reason: misspelled the title.
04-22-2009, 03:31 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Looks BEEFY... Does that add a lot of vibration to the driveline though?
This is the second car I've performed this upgrade on - I haven't yet got it installed back in this particular car but based on the first setup I did - I'd say it adds about 10% (AT MOST) vibration to the shifter above 3K RPM. This is the ONLY place you feel it.
04-22-2009, 04:52 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
04-22-2009, 06:39 PM
#7
Former Vendor
Thanks for posting the pictures, Ed. If anybody would like more information on these parts, please give us a call or email.
Brian Hinson
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/s-850-driveshafts.aspx
Brian Hinson
http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/s-850-driveshafts.aspx
04-23-2009, 10:25 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
04-23-2009, 12:40 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Ed, what would you say is better. This setup or switching to a Full U-Joint Setup?
Switching to a full U-J would be a rather involved process and some serious concessions would have to be made IMHO.
