LS2 N/A build for $5k maiking 485 rwhp
09-07-2011, 05:26 PM
#1
Track Junky
Thread Starter
LS2 N/A build for $5k maiking 485 rwhp
Sorry for the wait, but I finally put something down on paper. I got several requests on the details on my build so here it is...
Let me first start out by saying that this is for informational purposes only. There are many ways to get good power from an LS2 and it’s even easier in an LS3 - mine is just one of them. Many guys out there are making more rwhp from their setups than me, but I think I found a way to do it at a reasonable price. In addition, I am not an English major or a typist so I apologize in advance if my thoughts aren’t perfectly clear or concise. Please keep in mind while reading this that I didn’t invent any secret recipe, it’s only a collection of info out there that worked for me - it may not work for you with the goals that you have in mind. You also have to be willing to do all your own labor which has inherent risk. You mess something up, there’s nobody else to blame. I won’t get into the details of the work involved since there are extremely good DIY’s out there already.
So you finally worked up enough courage to start buying Go-Fast goodies for your beloved Corvette, and you’re brave enough to do all the work yourself in the garage. I can say from experience that it’s both the most frustrating and satisfying thing you will accomplish – in your garage at least. Something about saying “I built that” makes all the cuts and bruises worth it…
Without getting into a big discussion on superchargers vs. turbo vs. N/A, I’ll cover what I have done and why. Since my pockets aren’t that deep, I had to balance price with performance. The goal for me was to match the performance of a standard supercharger setup for less cost. I did all the labor myself and didn’t have to buy any specialty tools to get the work done (rented them from Auto Zone). I have all the basic tools and did the work on jack stands, so don’t believe the guys who say that it can’t be done. I even did a complete torque tube rebuild in the garage on jack stands…
The car was bought used (2005 DSOM LS2 w/ Z51 package) and already had a Borla exhaust and WCC Hurricane intake, so that saved me a bit of money. During the process, I managed to sell some of my stock parts including the old cam, injectors, x-pipe, exhaust manifold w/ cats, and intake manifold. This gave me about $700 back if I remember correctly. The key here is to be patient when looking to buy or sell used parts. There is always someone out there who wants your stuff.
Here’s a list of parts I bought and its associated cost (not including shipping). I may have left some minor things out, but this is most of it:
$1245 - Advanced Induction CNC’d 243 castings w/ valve job, springs, fully assembled & pressure tested
$395 – Spin’s 230/234 114+2 cam w/ QC document from Advanced Induction
$100 – hardened Chrome Moly pushrods
$150 – Cometic 0.040 head gaskets (rasies CR to 11.4)
$750 – FAST 102 (“used” but new in box on Forum)
$220 – 25% UD pulley and belts (used on Forum)
$200 – LS7 injectors and spacers to fit LS2 fuel rails (used on Forum)
$1040 – LG street series 1-3/4 headers, no cats
$110 – Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
$80 – LS7 clutch and flywheel (used on Forum)
$250 – ARP crank, flywheel, cam, head bolts
$100 – Formatto ported throttle body
$130 – rocker arm trunion upgrade
$150 – Katech C5R timing chain
$75 - all fluids for cam swap
$75 – misc gaskets for cam swap
$600 – Dyno tune
$5670 - Subtotal
-$700 – parts sold online (ebay or Forum)
$4970 – total money out of pocket
If I was a bit more patient, I could have saved $250-350 buying used headers. The car made 468/445 on a Mustang Dyno when the shop was 93 F and 92% humidity (just after a rain, S. Florida in August). Made 485/440 on a local Dynojet 248 the next week. I would bet that this car would make 490+ rwhp in January when the ambient temps are in the 60’s. Not bad for a mild cam and stock 243 castings! My tuner says this car is capable of 10.8x with gears.
Feel free to criticize or praise my choice of parts, but remember… I needed to balance budget and performance. I wanted a car that could melt rubber and still take my wife on a date without her complaining the whole time. It has great street manners, but can be slightly finicky when the engine is cold. Once she is warmed up, it purrs like a kitten (with some lope of course). I did about 3 months of research before pulling the trigger just to be sure that I made the right decision. My N/A build is extremely reliable and can rev to 6800 rpm all day with no concerns of PTV contact. And the best part is that I can get up to 30 mpg on the highway (yes Joe G, it appears to be true even after a few tanks of gas). This assumes I can keep my foot out of it while driving around. Normally, I’m averaging 16-18 mpg around town over the past few months.
The headers are LG Street Series, 1-3/4” primary tubes, no cats. Found them on the Forum from a vendor for $1042 shipped. LG has a great reputation for being one of the best Corvette header companies out there. Lou has put his 30+ years of racing to good use here and has come up with one hell of a product. Fitment was perfect and they slid right in from the bottom with little effort. Personally, I couldn’t justify spending and extra $500 for the Super Pro series for a few additional ponies. The guys from LG told me I’m leaving 5-7 rwhp on the table in a max effort car (those with 550-600 rwhp). I made 384/392 with just headers, ported TB and CAI.
Cam selection is probably your biggest question mark when deciding on a build. Literally hundreds of choices are out there straight off the shelf, and hundreds more when you ask the opinions of others. Guys like Patrick G and Spinmonster are an invaluable resource out there and can spec you out a cam to suit your individual needs. I chose Spin’s 230/234 114+2 because it was so humble on the street and still made incredible numbers. Spin himself has posted that this cam will make 500 rwhp on an LS3 with stock heads. Based on his recommendations, I bumped up CR to 11.4 by using Cometic head gaskets (0.040 thick, stock head gaskets are 0.052 thick). Since I had all head work done by Advance Induction in SC, they offered to QC the cam and measure my entire upper end together to ensure proper PTV clearance. I was at 0.065 on the intake which is less that the recommended 0.080. With correctly chosen valve train components, this has worked out just fine for me. Dozens of pulls to redline and no issues yet (knock on wood…). Advanced Induction chose the valve train components for me, I just wrote the check. Stock retainers and PSI 1511 Beehive springs were chosen to lighten up the valve train. Phil at Advanced Induction said in all his years, he has never broken one of these springs.
Katech C5R timing chain was chosen because in the history of Corvette racing, they have never broken one. I know I can’t put more stress on it then Corvette Racing can. What’s good enough for them is good enough for me. The Comp Cam rocker arm trunion upgrade was more of a nice to have, but after seeing the tolerance slop in the stock rockers it was a no brainer. I would estimate 0.040-0.060 in of slop was in the stock needle bearings, which can lead to valve train instability and significantly higher stresses inside the motor at redline.
With all this new found power, I was running out of injector and fuel pump capacity at this point. Stock LS2 injectors can support ~450-500 rwhp and the stock fuel pump can support 500-525 rwhp. I didn’t want to find out on the dyno I was running too lean so bought used LS7 injectors w/ spacers and a Walbro 255 lph fuel pump. The stock injectors were at 89% duty cycle with 384/392 and my current setup is running 76% duty cycle at 485/440. My stock fuel pump started humming pretty loud after about a month with just H/C, so I replaced it during the clutch install. I hear that a stock LS2 clutch will support somewhere in the neighborhood of 475-500 rwhp, but the current replacement parts listed in Chevy’s catalog is the LS3/LS7 setup. You can buy the LS7 clutch and flywheel for just over $400 from forum vendors. Pedal feel is like stock, but it is slightly more grabby due to the stronger pressure plate.
Finally, a FAST 102 is a must when building a vette. I resisted for a long time, telling myself that it isn’t worth the money until I found a brand new one on the Forum for $750 shipped. Woke the car up at around 4400 rpm. The top end breathes so well with this setup, I think I’m out of cam at this point.
Looking back in retrospect, I would have probably done the FAST first instead of last. I would consider a slightly larger cam, but am very happy with the one I have. Looking forward, the only things I can consider while staying N/A are water meth injection for the Florida heat and a larger throttle body. The water meth will lower intake temps about 30 F and with the increased octane rating, may give 10-15 rwhp. The bigger advantage is that it will prevent the engine from pulling timing when IAT temps rise, so it “gives back” Hp that the ECU would naturally take away. Kits range from $400 and up and don’t seem too difficult to install. The 102 mm throttle body may give me 5-10 rwhp, but would need a different CAI and intake to mate up to – not worth it in my book. We would be talking over $1000 installed and tuned AFTER selling my existing parts. No bang for the buck there…
If, after reading this, any of you see something technically incorrect or too vague, please let me know so I can fix it. If you want max effort, talk to guys like HC Mechanic (525 rwhp LS2 on stock 243 castings) or LEAVINU (507 rwhp on stock 243 castings). I’m sure they could provide more insight on their builds. One last thing – if you have any mechanical ability, give it a try. The work really isn’t that tough - it’s really just a bunch of nuts and bolts. You need to go into it knowing that it will always take more time than you think and double and triple check all critical steps before moving on (i.e. lining up the dots during a cam install). If you get into a bind, throw the question to the guys on the Forum. There are hundreds of guys out there who have done it before and probably dozens who have made the same mistakes that would more than willing to help out. During my project, I had two guys who I had never met offer to drive an hour or more to help me finish my build. Most of us will do it just for the experience… the free beer and pizza you offer could seal the deal!
So there you have it. A very streetable N/A LS2 motor making 485 rwhp (maybe more when the weather cools off) for just about $5k. It should be able to keep pace with the advertized S/C kits out there and you will still have $1500 in your pocket at the end of the day. Plus you got an upgraded clutch and stronger vlave train components out of the deal. Your gonna need that extra cash real soon on some new tires though, so keep it handy.
Shady Tree Mechanic, LS2 style…
Let me first start out by saying that this is for informational purposes only. There are many ways to get good power from an LS2 and it’s even easier in an LS3 - mine is just one of them. Many guys out there are making more rwhp from their setups than me, but I think I found a way to do it at a reasonable price. In addition, I am not an English major or a typist so I apologize in advance if my thoughts aren’t perfectly clear or concise. Please keep in mind while reading this that I didn’t invent any secret recipe, it’s only a collection of info out there that worked for me - it may not work for you with the goals that you have in mind. You also have to be willing to do all your own labor which has inherent risk. You mess something up, there’s nobody else to blame. I won’t get into the details of the work involved since there are extremely good DIY’s out there already.
So you finally worked up enough courage to start buying Go-Fast goodies for your beloved Corvette, and you’re brave enough to do all the work yourself in the garage. I can say from experience that it’s both the most frustrating and satisfying thing you will accomplish – in your garage at least. Something about saying “I built that” makes all the cuts and bruises worth it…
Without getting into a big discussion on superchargers vs. turbo vs. N/A, I’ll cover what I have done and why. Since my pockets aren’t that deep, I had to balance price with performance. The goal for me was to match the performance of a standard supercharger setup for less cost. I did all the labor myself and didn’t have to buy any specialty tools to get the work done (rented them from Auto Zone). I have all the basic tools and did the work on jack stands, so don’t believe the guys who say that it can’t be done. I even did a complete torque tube rebuild in the garage on jack stands…
The car was bought used (2005 DSOM LS2 w/ Z51 package) and already had a Borla exhaust and WCC Hurricane intake, so that saved me a bit of money. During the process, I managed to sell some of my stock parts including the old cam, injectors, x-pipe, exhaust manifold w/ cats, and intake manifold. This gave me about $700 back if I remember correctly. The key here is to be patient when looking to buy or sell used parts. There is always someone out there who wants your stuff.
Here’s a list of parts I bought and its associated cost (not including shipping). I may have left some minor things out, but this is most of it:
$1245 - Advanced Induction CNC’d 243 castings w/ valve job, springs, fully assembled & pressure tested
$395 – Spin’s 230/234 114+2 cam w/ QC document from Advanced Induction
$100 – hardened Chrome Moly pushrods
$150 – Cometic 0.040 head gaskets (rasies CR to 11.4)
$750 – FAST 102 (“used” but new in box on Forum)
$220 – 25% UD pulley and belts (used on Forum)
$200 – LS7 injectors and spacers to fit LS2 fuel rails (used on Forum)
$1040 – LG street series 1-3/4 headers, no cats
$110 – Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
$80 – LS7 clutch and flywheel (used on Forum)
$250 – ARP crank, flywheel, cam, head bolts
$100 – Formatto ported throttle body
$130 – rocker arm trunion upgrade
$150 – Katech C5R timing chain
$75 - all fluids for cam swap
$75 – misc gaskets for cam swap
$600 – Dyno tune
$5670 - Subtotal
-$700 – parts sold online (ebay or Forum)
$4970 – total money out of pocket
If I was a bit more patient, I could have saved $250-350 buying used headers. The car made 468/445 on a Mustang Dyno when the shop was 93 F and 92% humidity (just after a rain, S. Florida in August). Made 485/440 on a local Dynojet 248 the next week. I would bet that this car would make 490+ rwhp in January when the ambient temps are in the 60’s. Not bad for a mild cam and stock 243 castings! My tuner says this car is capable of 10.8x with gears.
Feel free to criticize or praise my choice of parts, but remember… I needed to balance budget and performance. I wanted a car that could melt rubber and still take my wife on a date without her complaining the whole time. It has great street manners, but can be slightly finicky when the engine is cold. Once she is warmed up, it purrs like a kitten (with some lope of course). I did about 3 months of research before pulling the trigger just to be sure that I made the right decision. My N/A build is extremely reliable and can rev to 6800 rpm all day with no concerns of PTV contact. And the best part is that I can get up to 30 mpg on the highway (yes Joe G, it appears to be true even after a few tanks of gas). This assumes I can keep my foot out of it while driving around. Normally, I’m averaging 16-18 mpg around town over the past few months.
The headers are LG Street Series, 1-3/4” primary tubes, no cats. Found them on the Forum from a vendor for $1042 shipped. LG has a great reputation for being one of the best Corvette header companies out there. Lou has put his 30+ years of racing to good use here and has come up with one hell of a product. Fitment was perfect and they slid right in from the bottom with little effort. Personally, I couldn’t justify spending and extra $500 for the Super Pro series for a few additional ponies. The guys from LG told me I’m leaving 5-7 rwhp on the table in a max effort car (those with 550-600 rwhp). I made 384/392 with just headers, ported TB and CAI.
Cam selection is probably your biggest question mark when deciding on a build. Literally hundreds of choices are out there straight off the shelf, and hundreds more when you ask the opinions of others. Guys like Patrick G and Spinmonster are an invaluable resource out there and can spec you out a cam to suit your individual needs. I chose Spin’s 230/234 114+2 because it was so humble on the street and still made incredible numbers. Spin himself has posted that this cam will make 500 rwhp on an LS3 with stock heads. Based on his recommendations, I bumped up CR to 11.4 by using Cometic head gaskets (0.040 thick, stock head gaskets are 0.052 thick). Since I had all head work done by Advance Induction in SC, they offered to QC the cam and measure my entire upper end together to ensure proper PTV clearance. I was at 0.065 on the intake which is less that the recommended 0.080. With correctly chosen valve train components, this has worked out just fine for me. Dozens of pulls to redline and no issues yet (knock on wood…). Advanced Induction chose the valve train components for me, I just wrote the check. Stock retainers and PSI 1511 Beehive springs were chosen to lighten up the valve train. Phil at Advanced Induction said in all his years, he has never broken one of these springs.
Katech C5R timing chain was chosen because in the history of Corvette racing, they have never broken one. I know I can’t put more stress on it then Corvette Racing can. What’s good enough for them is good enough for me. The Comp Cam rocker arm trunion upgrade was more of a nice to have, but after seeing the tolerance slop in the stock rockers it was a no brainer. I would estimate 0.040-0.060 in of slop was in the stock needle bearings, which can lead to valve train instability and significantly higher stresses inside the motor at redline.
With all this new found power, I was running out of injector and fuel pump capacity at this point. Stock LS2 injectors can support ~450-500 rwhp and the stock fuel pump can support 500-525 rwhp. I didn’t want to find out on the dyno I was running too lean so bought used LS7 injectors w/ spacers and a Walbro 255 lph fuel pump. The stock injectors were at 89% duty cycle with 384/392 and my current setup is running 76% duty cycle at 485/440. My stock fuel pump started humming pretty loud after about a month with just H/C, so I replaced it during the clutch install. I hear that a stock LS2 clutch will support somewhere in the neighborhood of 475-500 rwhp, but the current replacement parts listed in Chevy’s catalog is the LS3/LS7 setup. You can buy the LS7 clutch and flywheel for just over $400 from forum vendors. Pedal feel is like stock, but it is slightly more grabby due to the stronger pressure plate.
Finally, a FAST 102 is a must when building a vette. I resisted for a long time, telling myself that it isn’t worth the money until I found a brand new one on the Forum for $750 shipped. Woke the car up at around 4400 rpm. The top end breathes so well with this setup, I think I’m out of cam at this point.
Looking back in retrospect, I would have probably done the FAST first instead of last. I would consider a slightly larger cam, but am very happy with the one I have. Looking forward, the only things I can consider while staying N/A are water meth injection for the Florida heat and a larger throttle body. The water meth will lower intake temps about 30 F and with the increased octane rating, may give 10-15 rwhp. The bigger advantage is that it will prevent the engine from pulling timing when IAT temps rise, so it “gives back” Hp that the ECU would naturally take away. Kits range from $400 and up and don’t seem too difficult to install. The 102 mm throttle body may give me 5-10 rwhp, but would need a different CAI and intake to mate up to – not worth it in my book. We would be talking over $1000 installed and tuned AFTER selling my existing parts. No bang for the buck there…
If, after reading this, any of you see something technically incorrect or too vague, please let me know so I can fix it. If you want max effort, talk to guys like HC Mechanic (525 rwhp LS2 on stock 243 castings) or LEAVINU (507 rwhp on stock 243 castings). I’m sure they could provide more insight on their builds. One last thing – if you have any mechanical ability, give it a try. The work really isn’t that tough - it’s really just a bunch of nuts and bolts. You need to go into it knowing that it will always take more time than you think and double and triple check all critical steps before moving on (i.e. lining up the dots during a cam install). If you get into a bind, throw the question to the guys on the Forum. There are hundreds of guys out there who have done it before and probably dozens who have made the same mistakes that would more than willing to help out. During my project, I had two guys who I had never met offer to drive an hour or more to help me finish my build. Most of us will do it just for the experience… the free beer and pizza you offer could seal the deal!
So there you have it. A very streetable N/A LS2 motor making 485 rwhp (maybe more when the weather cools off) for just about $5k. It should be able to keep pace with the advertized S/C kits out there and you will still have $1500 in your pocket at the end of the day. Plus you got an upgraded clutch and stronger vlave train components out of the deal. Your gonna need that extra cash real soon on some new tires though, so keep it handy.
09-07-2011, 06:32 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2011
Location: Tampa FL (formerly Justinjor)
Posts: 5,022
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
9 Posts
Tech Contributor
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Looks good Sean-I think you and I are on a simliar mindset. Right now, my biggest contention is cam choice-I know the 230/234 is proven and makes good power, I just wanted to try something a little different.
I'm thinking I'll go with what Pat recommended for me (230/238 .600/.615 113+2), I just want to hear back from him and confirm that I won't have any PTV issues if I decide to mill/cometic gasket the stock heads.
I shopped on the forums for a long time trying to find a good deal on used ARH or LG headers but I never found what I was looking for--after talking with some trusted buds, I went ahead and ordered some OBX 1 7/8 non-catted and will be installing them this weekend or next. The total price for the headers, OEM gaskets and front/rear 02 extensions was $725 shipped to my door. It's tough to beat that.
If I do a FAST, it will be one of the last things and it will mainly be for aesthetics. It sure is purty, but the stock manifold is good with a little porting.
Cajun@BER has been in contact with me regarding a set of ported/milled stock heads and I very much want to take him up on his offer. I just need to verify PTV before I go shelling out more cash.
I'll be doing all the wrenching myself, in my garage, on jackstands. It's not ideal, but I love the satisfaction of self-completion, not to mention the $$ saved on install costs. I've done a lot with imports but nothing with the LS series. I did, however, swap my 1991 Camaro Z28 from automatic to manual way back in the day. I was in the military at the time and their on-base hobby shop is outstanding.
Thanks again for all the useful information. If you're ever in the Tampa area, look me up
I'm thinking I'll go with what Pat recommended for me (230/238 .600/.615 113+2), I just want to hear back from him and confirm that I won't have any PTV issues if I decide to mill/cometic gasket the stock heads.
I shopped on the forums for a long time trying to find a good deal on used ARH or LG headers but I never found what I was looking for--after talking with some trusted buds, I went ahead and ordered some OBX 1 7/8 non-catted and will be installing them this weekend or next. The total price for the headers, OEM gaskets and front/rear 02 extensions was $725 shipped to my door. It's tough to beat that.
If I do a FAST, it will be one of the last things and it will mainly be for aesthetics. It sure is purty, but the stock manifold is good with a little porting.
Cajun@BER has been in contact with me regarding a set of ported/milled stock heads and I very much want to take him up on his offer. I just need to verify PTV before I go shelling out more cash.
I'll be doing all the wrenching myself, in my garage, on jackstands. It's not ideal, but I love the satisfaction of self-completion, not to mention the $$ saved on install costs. I've done a lot with imports but nothing with the LS series. I did, however, swap my 1991 Camaro Z28 from automatic to manual way back in the day. I was in the military at the time and their on-base hobby shop is outstanding.
Thanks again for all the useful information. If you're ever in the Tampa area, look me up
09-07-2011, 06:46 PM
#5
Track Junky
Thread Starter
I think your cam will make more power but will need a good tuner to tame it on the street. Good deal on the OBX headers, I have heard that they are a great buy for the money. Try to find a company that will measure your heads and cam together. Thats pretty good peace of mind for potential PTV issues. You should also clay check during the install. I tried but couldn't come up with the same numbers - mine were around 0.085 vs the measured 0.065. I probably didn't snug down the head bolts enough.
Speaking of Camaros, I had a '95 in college and was under the hood every weekend. I learned about cars on that LT1. Plug changes sucked!
Speaking of Camaros, I had a '95 in college and was under the hood every weekend. I learned about cars on that LT1. Plug changes sucked!
09-07-2011, 06:50 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2011
Location: Tampa FL (formerly Justinjor)
Posts: 5,022
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
9 Posts
Tech Contributor
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
I had a 94 Firebird Formula all through college--went through 2 optisparks in 2 years so I sold it. 95 they started to vent the cover but damn, the 94s were awful.
Jeremy Formato will be doing the tune on the car so I think I'll be ok in that department.
Regarding PTV, the cam is coming from EPS and I think the heads will be coming from Cajun and he seemed to think it wouldn't be an issue. I just want to get some concrete confirmation before I fire it up. I've heard of the clay method but I'm not sure how I would even do it. Also, I really don't want to have to flycut the pistons so if I'll need to, I'll probably get a less aggressive cam to keep the PTV in check.
Jeremy Formato will be doing the tune on the car so I think I'll be ok in that department.
Regarding PTV, the cam is coming from EPS and I think the heads will be coming from Cajun and he seemed to think it wouldn't be an issue. I just want to get some concrete confirmation before I fire it up. I've heard of the clay method but I'm not sure how I would even do it. Also, I really don't want to have to flycut the pistons so if I'll need to, I'll probably get a less aggressive cam to keep the PTV in check.
09-07-2011, 07:39 PM
#7
Track Junky
Thread Starter
Run a search on claying the pistons. not hard at all. Basically put a couple strips of clay on the piston tops, assemble the heads with bolts snug, spin motor over by hand, remove head, measure remaining thickness of clay impression. You will need a solid lifter or very light spring to do it though.
09-07-2011, 08:39 PM
#8
Instructor
Thanks for the write-up. Has a new vette owner (at least new to me) and someone who is new to the LS series engines it gives me some things to think about.
I have always had brute HP in the way of 750 hp bigblocks with the addition 2 systems of nos (strip only). Has expensive has dragracing is I figure it time to have something I can take out and drive when I want to with a little more power than stock.
Again thanks for taking the time to write this up and share.
I have always had brute HP in the way of 750 hp bigblocks with the addition 2 systems of nos (strip only). Has expensive has dragracing is I figure it time to have something I can take out and drive when I want to with a little more power than stock.
Again thanks for taking the time to write this up and share.
09-07-2011, 09:04 PM
#9
Track Junky
Thread Starter
Thanks for the write-up. Has a new vette owner (at least new to me) and someone who is new to the LS series engines it gives me some things to think about.
I have always had brute HP in the way of 750 hp bigblocks with the addition 2 systems of nos (strip only). Has expensive has dragracing is I figure it time to have something I can take out and drive when I want to with a little more power than stock.
Again thanks for taking the time to write this up and share.
I have always had brute HP in the way of 750 hp bigblocks with the addition 2 systems of nos (strip only). Has expensive has dragracing is I figure it time to have something I can take out and drive when I want to with a little more power than stock.
Again thanks for taking the time to write this up and share.
09-08-2011, 07:41 AM
#10
Safety Car
I have an 05 myself with L92/L76 stock heads but .20 milled only, stock GM gaskets......no clearance issues. I see that you have to .40 head gaskets with no clearance issues. My question is, did you milled your L92 heads at .30? I would like to increase my compression also. Thanks in advance
09-08-2011, 08:23 AM
#11
Track Junky
Thread Starter
I have an 05 myself with L92/L76 stock heads but .20 milled only, stock GM gaskets......no clearance issues. I see that you have to .40 head gaskets with no clearance issues. My question is, did you milled your L92 heads at .30? I would like to increase my compression also. Thanks in advance
I have the stock 243 heads, not L92 heads.
Best of luck
09-08-2011, 08:55 AM
#14
Pro
Taken19 - As a 06 C6 Z51 Newbee..... I appreciate the info ttt. I must approach my build similar and do the work myself.
I have NO Criticism's for the writing or work or selections of parts you have choosen!
Can I Drive your car?..... (LOL)
I'm sure I have questions but will watch the thread develop and continue to learn as I plan a second stage of my build. I've spent way too much at present / may have to bin a few items and replace with more robust options next go around. In meantime - I'm really enjoying shreading my rear Michelins and listening to my car roar! I'd love more power in due time however. I want a lift for my garage too! All in due time. If you make it to StL - look me up I'll buy dinner... Thanks again!
I have NO Criticism's for the writing or work or selections of parts you have choosen!
Can I Drive your car?..... (LOL)
I'm sure I have questions but will watch the thread develop and continue to learn as I plan a second stage of my build. I've spent way too much at present / may have to bin a few items and replace with more robust options next go around. In meantime - I'm really enjoying shreading my rear Michelins and listening to my car roar! I'd love more power in due time however. I want a lift for my garage too! All in due time. If you make it to StL - look me up I'll buy dinner... Thanks again!
09-08-2011, 09:40 AM
#15
Track Junky
Thread Starter
09-08-2011, 09:47 AM
#16
Track Junky
Thread Starter
Taken19 - As a 06 C6 Z51 Newbee..... I appreciate the info ttt. I must approach my build similar and do the work myself.
I have NO Criticism's for the writing or work or selections of parts you have choosen!
Can I Drive your car?..... (LOL)
I'm sure I have questions but will watch the thread develop and continue to learn as I plan a second stage of my build. I've spent way too much at present / may have to bin a few items and replace with more robust options next go around. In meantime - I'm really enjoying shreading my rear Michelins and listening to my car roar! I'd love more power in due time however. I want a lift for my garage too! All in due time. If you make it to StL - look me up I'll buy dinner... Thanks again!
I have NO Criticism's for the writing or work or selections of parts you have choosen!
Can I Drive your car?..... (LOL)
I'm sure I have questions but will watch the thread develop and continue to learn as I plan a second stage of my build. I've spent way too much at present / may have to bin a few items and replace with more robust options next go around. In meantime - I'm really enjoying shreading my rear Michelins and listening to my car roar! I'd love more power in due time however. I want a lift for my garage too! All in due time. If you make it to StL - look me up I'll buy dinner... Thanks again!
09-08-2011, 10:17 AM
#18
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2011
Location: Tampa FL (formerly Justinjor)
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
09-08-2011, 04:58 PM
#19
Track Junky
Thread Starter
Let me know.
Sean
09-08-2011, 05:00 PM
#20
Track Junky
Thread Starter