Filthy....Part Deaux (Updated)
#21
I like two bucket method. I use a high quality but non harsh car soap. Use very light pressure on wash mitt to avoid rubbing any loose grit into paint. Go over real dirty area a second time rather than trying to rub it clean with first pass. Remember less friction between car and mitt is a good thing. Rinse mitt frequently. I usually dry the car with a leaf blower.
#22
Drifting
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#23
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I would run it to a self service car wash first and knock off the bulk of the dirt with the pressure washer. Don't worry about getting it spit polish clean.
Then drive it home and do a proper wash job using LOTs of clean soapy water(using Dawn) with a CLEAN mitt. Use a new mitt on the painted surfaces and an old mitt strictly for the wheels and wheel housings etc, after washing the painted surfaces.
Then drive it home and do a proper wash job using LOTs of clean soapy water(using Dawn) with a CLEAN mitt. Use a new mitt on the painted surfaces and an old mitt strictly for the wheels and wheel housings etc, after washing the painted surfaces.
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for your input and help.
Steve
#25
Drifting
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#26
Moderator
Autogeek (forum sponsor) has the following information/instructions: http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html
Last edited by Zymurgy; 12-30-2015 at 12:06 AM.
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AdventurePoser (12-30-2015)
#27
Melting Slicks
I have to chuckle, the OP asks how to get the dirt off his car and then jumps right to a dual bucket washing system.
Skip the dual buckets and start with the basics. Forget about polishing, and buffing until you learn how to safely wash your car.
To get your car clean this is all you need:
1.) Hose- no explanation needed
2.) Car wash soap- no explanation needed
3.) Car wash mit- no explanation needed
4.) Big microfiber towel- to dry the car after washing
To clean the wheels and tires, this is all you need:
1.) Hose
2.) Wheel cleaner (I recommend Eagle A2Z wheel cleaner)
3.) Dedicated microfiber towel OR soft bristle wheel brush
Once you get the basics done ask about waxing/polishing
Skip the dual buckets and start with the basics. Forget about polishing, and buffing until you learn how to safely wash your car.
To get your car clean this is all you need:
1.) Hose- no explanation needed
2.) Car wash soap- no explanation needed
3.) Car wash mit- no explanation needed
4.) Big microfiber towel- to dry the car after washing
To clean the wheels and tires, this is all you need:
1.) Hose
2.) Wheel cleaner (I recommend Eagle A2Z wheel cleaner)
3.) Dedicated microfiber towel OR soft bristle wheel brush
Once you get the basics done ask about waxing/polishing
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AdventurePoser (12-31-2015)
#28
Melting Slicks
By hand is the only way to use a clay bar. Make sure you use a spray lubricant and use it generously. Clay bars and lubricant spray are often sold as a "kit".
Autogeek (forum sponsor) has the following information/instructions: http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html
Autogeek (forum sponsor) has the following information/instructions: http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html
#29
I have to chuckle, the OP asks how to get the dirt off his car and then jumps right to a dual bucket washing system.
Skip the dual buckets and start with the basics. Forget about polishing, and buffing until you learn how to safely wash your car.
To get your car clean this is all you need:
1.) Hose- no explanation needed
2.) Car wash soap- no explanation needed
3.) Car wash mit- no explanation needed
4.) Big microfiber towel- to dry the car after washing
To clean the wheels and tires, this is all you need:
1.) Hose
2.) Wheel cleaner (I recommend Eagle A2Z wheel cleaner)
3.) Dedicated microfiber towel OR soft bristle wheel brush
Once you get the basics done ask about waxing/polishing
Skip the dual buckets and start with the basics. Forget about polishing, and buffing until you learn how to safely wash your car.
To get your car clean this is all you need:
1.) Hose- no explanation needed
2.) Car wash soap- no explanation needed
3.) Car wash mit- no explanation needed
4.) Big microfiber towel- to dry the car after washing
To clean the wheels and tires, this is all you need:
1.) Hose
2.) Wheel cleaner (I recommend Eagle A2Z wheel cleaner)
3.) Dedicated microfiber towel OR soft bristle wheel brush
Once you get the basics done ask about waxing/polishing
And with the car wash "system" you just told him to do, he will need to polish/wax a lot sooner.
Most marring comes from bad wash/dry technique.
Follow Glen's instructions. Simple as that.
#30
Melting Slicks
1. Pressure wash wheels and inner finders at the Coin-op unless you own or have a friend with one; then jack it up and catch the bottom of the car.
2. Clay bar ALL the paint. I do this twice a year.....get all the tree sap, road gunk and anything else that's sticking to the paint. You will not believe how much smoother the painted surface will be when finished.
3. Opinions very here; I use ReJex to protect the paint....it isn't a wax, its a sealant and works quite well. If you still feel the need to wax, do that first then Rejex over it.
BTW;
Stingray front grille;
Z06 Grille;
Sorry, I don't have any good shots of the two seats offered.
2. Clay bar ALL the paint. I do this twice a year.....get all the tree sap, road gunk and anything else that's sticking to the paint. You will not believe how much smoother the painted surface will be when finished.
3. Opinions very here; I use ReJex to protect the paint....it isn't a wax, its a sealant and works quite well. If you still feel the need to wax, do that first then Rejex over it.
BTW;
Stingray front grille;
Z06 Grille;
Sorry, I don't have any good shots of the two seats offered.
#31
Melting Slicks
There is nothing wrong with a very basic car wash procedure as long as you keep the mit and towel clean. I've been working primarily with Corvettes, in all aspects, for over a decade. No reason to over complicate things for the OP. Learn the basics, if he gets micro abrasions or sees the need for polish or paint cleaning, then he can learn the next steps.
#32
Drifting
My new-to-me Vette was delivered yesterday evening. She is a 2015 Z51 convertible, AW, with the A8 tranny. She has a Z06 grille (I think), and has competition style seats(I think) as well. I'll post up pix as soon as it stops raining.
The car made it's way to me through blinding rain, mud, and enough road gunk to coat three cars and this was just from Portland to Newport...
To say the car is dirty is a serious understatement.
Underneath the dirt, the car seems pristine; the paint looks great, the interior looks brand new (car had 6400 miles on it when delivered) and it runs beautifully!
Anyway, where do I start with cleaning her up? i"m thinking lots of water to loosen all the sh$t on it, then the two bucket wash using a mitt and a waffle weave towel to dry. I'll clean the wheels using a dedicated micro fiber cloth and car soap... Then maybe a pump bottle wax, and buff with clean mf towels.
Am I on the right track here? Anything I'm missing?
Cheers,
Steve, in the Great Northwet
The car made it's way to me through blinding rain, mud, and enough road gunk to coat three cars and this was just from Portland to Newport...
To say the car is dirty is a serious understatement.
Underneath the dirt, the car seems pristine; the paint looks great, the interior looks brand new (car had 6400 miles on it when delivered) and it runs beautifully!
Anyway, where do I start with cleaning her up? i"m thinking lots of water to loosen all the sh$t on it, then the two bucket wash using a mitt and a waffle weave towel to dry. I'll clean the wheels using a dedicated micro fiber cloth and car soap... Then maybe a pump bottle wax, and buff with clean mf towels.
Am I on the right track here? Anything I'm missing?
Cheers,
Steve, in the Great Northwet
#33
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These detail threads always morph out of control.
want easy? follow what I said in my post #3: wash with dawn and spray on some quik wax...
now if the guy wants to properly protect his car my "system" is still easy - it's wash, clay, polish and seal..all taking about 3 hours. Now you are done for 6-8 months.
but the OP needs to follow ONE METHOD...and that's what I wrote up, with what tools to use, and how to do it, down to what pad and technique. The only time I've heard from people that had failure was guys who "mixed and matched" advice, technique and product and listened to too many people here and took a bit from each (FAIL)
from mike phillips at autogeek (his is essentially same as mine)
want easy? follow what I said in my post #3: wash with dawn and spray on some quik wax...
now if the guy wants to properly protect his car my "system" is still easy - it's wash, clay, polish and seal..all taking about 3 hours. Now you are done for 6-8 months.
but the OP needs to follow ONE METHOD...and that's what I wrote up, with what tools to use, and how to do it, down to what pad and technique. The only time I've heard from people that had failure was guys who "mixed and matched" advice, technique and product and listened to too many people here and took a bit from each (FAIL)
from mike phillips at autogeek (his is essentially same as mine)
Last edited by Glen e; 12-30-2015 at 11:09 AM.
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#34
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Yup. But not nearly as bad as the Zaino vs Rejex threads in C6 Gen; those got heated.
My C7 is my DD unless it's snowy/icy (like right now) and it's a Chevy. I don't obsess over it or use the "two bucket" method. I do clay bar it twice a year and use a slightly-modified Glen e method. It's a mass produced car with a mass production paint job; don't get too obsessive over how to wash it.
My C7 is my DD unless it's snowy/icy (like right now) and it's a Chevy. I don't obsess over it or use the "two bucket" method. I do clay bar it twice a year and use a slightly-modified Glen e method. It's a mass produced car with a mass production paint job; don't get too obsessive over how to wash it.
#35
Melting Slicks
These detail threads always morph out of control.
want easy? follow what I said in my post #3: wash with dawn and spray on some quik wax...
now if the guy wants to properly protect his car my "system" is still easy - it's wash, clay, polish and seal..all taking about 3 hours. Now you are done for 6-8 months.
but the OP needs to follow ONE METHOD...and that's what I wrote up, with what tools to use, and how to do it, down to what pad and technique. The only time I've heard from people that had failure was guys who "mixed and matched" advice, technique and product and listened to too many people here and took a bit from each (FAIL)
from mike phillips at autogeek (his is essentially same as mine)
want easy? follow what I said in my post #3: wash with dawn and spray on some quik wax...
now if the guy wants to properly protect his car my "system" is still easy - it's wash, clay, polish and seal..all taking about 3 hours. Now you are done for 6-8 months.
but the OP needs to follow ONE METHOD...and that's what I wrote up, with what tools to use, and how to do it, down to what pad and technique. The only time I've heard from people that had failure was guys who "mixed and matched" advice, technique and product and listened to too many people here and took a bit from each (FAIL)
from mike phillips at autogeek (his is essentially same as mine)
Clay bar is a good tool, but not completely necessary. If your car is garage kept, you can get away with waxing the car with a cleaner wax and kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
Moderate imperfections will likely still require compound.
Swirl removal is avoidable if you avoid harsh chemicals and dry your car properly or never put a machine to your paint. Again, maintain the paint from day 1 with cleaner wax, spray wax between washes and a good wax/sealant every 3 to 4 months.
Very little difference between finishing polish and glaze. Both only fill in imperfections but will wash out and fade with time. Once you put a machine to your paint, you will never ever fully remove swirl marks and micro abrasions. You will have to use polish or glaze regularly to hide them. I don't care how good you think you are at buffing, if you are knowledgeable you will know this. The closest exception would be if you were to spend hours and hours and hours hand buffing, swirl removing and polishing a car.
Prewax cleansing polish- waste, waste of time, waste of money
Glaze- another waste UNLESS you have a dark colored car and are entering a car show. Use glaze like a quick detailer. It lasts all of about 1 day.
Paint sealant/wax- yes, important to use.
Spray wax- yes also important to use, but primarily for maintenance like in-between washes and waxes, at cruise nights to get the dust off, etc... Also good to spray on the car while drying after a wash, helps remove/prevent water spots.
Quick detailer- just use a spray wax, does the same thing except the spray wax gives it a more polished look.
You can easily avoid the majority of things on this chart assuming your car is garage kept/doesn't see bad weather/bad ambient conditions. Avoid clay bar, compound, swirl marks, and polishing by using a paint cleaning wax 1 to 2 times per year. After using the cleaning wax go back over the car with a paint sealant or high quality wax. Then use spray wax between washes and to remove dust etc...
You will find that with regular use of spray wax, you'll end up smoothing and polishing the paint little by little without even knowing it.
The flow chart posted above is good info for people that want to get the absolute best looking paint finish possible or if someone has a car that they bought used, has seen poor conditions, has overspray, paint contamination, etc...
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dvilin (12-30-2015)
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ronkh57 (12-30-2015)
#37
Melting Slicks
The market is saturated with junk. saying that, most of the steps in your chart are great if someone knows what they are doing and want their car to looks it's absolute best, but it's a total waste for the majority of car owners who have no idea how to properly buff a car.
Look how many "expert" buffers have surfaced on the internet because they bought a DA orbital. Your chart is geared towards those people, they think they know it all and they want to tell their buddies about how they 3 step buffed and polished their car after their dual bucket washing system and complete clay bar/paint decontamination. It makes them sound knowledgeable and important. The truth of the matter is they likely are ruining their paint that had 0 swirls in it and now they put swirls in the paint with their DA orbital and have to hide the swirls with regular polishing.
Your best bet to achieving the absolute paint finish is actually to almost start backwards with your chart. Obviously wash the car first, but try wax or polish before you go an put micro abrasions in the paint with clay bar and compound. And yes, clay bar does put micro abrasions in paint! That's why they come in different levels, or grains if you will. Medium is noticeable to the eye in dim lighting. Fine is noticeable under the sun. Try the least invasive first. I always recommend cleaner wax before claybar. Too many people scratch their paint with claybar.
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dvilin (12-30-2015)
#38
Melting Slicks
WOW!!! Do you want to play with the paint or enjoy your car? Just wash the car using a wash and wax product. Use a wheel cleaner to dislodge the brake dirt from the wheels, I find you still have to use a mit to remove the dirt film. About once a year or if the paint dulls/oxidizes prior, polish with a cleaner wax product. Your car will look good and a little road dirt accumulated while driving will not stress you.
Some owners get a lot of pleasure out of detailing their cars, some don't. Decide which guy you are, and if you're not going to spend a lot of time on it, just follow the above--or even just pressure wash occasionally.
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AdventurePoser (12-31-2015)
#39
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All I know is the more you touch a car the more likely it is to get swirls and scratches. Keep them clean with a reasonable routine.
#40
Melting Slicks