What to pay
#1
Race Director
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What to pay
Assuming I went to a shop that had the abilty to corner weight my 04Z and I supplied the Pfadt coil overs, sways, and a bushing kit what should I expect to pay for labor to install and set up my suspension.
#2
Le Mans Master
Your talking physical installation of 4 coil-over's, the removal of stock suspension (leafs), cornerweight/balance/ride height adjust, as well as an 4 wheel allignment.
I would say around $1000
$550 coil-over install and removal of stock leafs
$450 for a GOOD cornerweight and 4 wheel allignment
You may find a shop that is cheaper and some that are more expensive. I would be wary of any shop that charges a lot less than this and get a competent job. Best bet is to take it to a well known shop on the forum, Phoenix.
Problem with the install is your not just replacing a strut with a coil-over (like for like). You need to remove the leaf, so that may add an hour to the job.
I would say around $1000
$550 coil-over install and removal of stock leafs
$450 for a GOOD cornerweight and 4 wheel allignment
You may find a shop that is cheaper and some that are more expensive. I would be wary of any shop that charges a lot less than this and get a competent job. Best bet is to take it to a well known shop on the forum, Phoenix.
Problem with the install is your not just replacing a strut with a coil-over (like for like). You need to remove the leaf, so that may add an hour to the job.
#3
Melting Slicks
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Phenix Performance is the shop for this job. They do this kind of work all the time for the SCCA T-1 racers.
You will ALSO need adjustable end links for the sway bar, which Phoenix can provide.
Frank Gonzalez
You will ALSO need adjustable end links for the sway bar, which Phoenix can provide.
Frank Gonzalez
#5
Pro
You mean a poly bushing kit for the A-arms? I was quoted 10 hours of labor for such a job. The parts were cheap with respect to the labor to install.
#6
Le Mans Master
Good catch! I missed the bushing portion. That would be in addition to the cost I laid out and the 10 hour estimate seems right. Installing new bushings all the way around is a LOT of work...
#7
Melting Slicks
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I would say $1000 to $1250 for installing the bushings and coil overs then setting the ride height and cross weighting. It's some good $$$ but you will love your car afterward, I have at least 3 customers running that set-up and they are all very happy with there cars.
It usually takes me around 15 hrs to get it all done morning to do the front end, afternoon to do the back end and the next morning to get everything straitened out.
It usually takes me around 15 hrs to get it all done morning to do the front end, afternoon to do the back end and the next morning to get everything straitened out.
Last edited by 96CollectorSport; 01-21-2009 at 06:49 PM.
#8
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Thanks for your help.I want to start running the car on some road coarses so all the info I can get is helpful. I have a funny feeling I'm jumping into this with two feet in the water too fast as opposed to starting out slowly but that just isn't my style so I figure the set up I came up with should stick me like glue in-addition to some Hoosiers.
#9
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The best improvement you will make to your cars performance is the driver. Drive your first years events stock to learn the car and it's limits. After that, if you can drive the car at 8-9 tenths of its capabilities then think about mods. Sticky tires can hide a bunch of driver error or sloppyness. Seat time !! Seat Time - Seat TIme !
#10
Drifting
The best improvement you will make to your cars performance is the driver. Drive your first years events stock to learn the car and it's limits. After that, if you can drive the car at 8-9 tenths of its capabilities then think about mods. Sticky tires can hide a bunch of driver error or sloppyness. Seat time !! Seat Time - Seat TIme !
After you've run 15-20 track days then get some rubber and brakes and you will be good for another 20 days or more.
A waster of money right now.
#11
Melting Slicks
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The best improvement you will make to your cars performance is the driver. Drive your first years events stock to learn the car and it's limits. After that, if you can drive the car at 8-9 tenths of its capabilities then think about mods. Sticky tires can hide a bunch of driver error or sloppyness. Seat time !! Seat Time - Seat TIme !
Maybe if they took the attitude that they are starting out competing in a "street-tire stock class", and the only thing the rules allow are alignment changes, they wouldn't spend so much money modding their cars for classes that don't exist in the real world.
They're too competitive and can't stand being passed by anyone. Remember, you can outrun anything but your money and you don't have enough money to outrun everyone. Even the F1 car owners know it's the drivers that make the cars faster, that's why they don't drive them themselves...lol.
#14
Le Mans Master
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