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Thanks DUB, I have half a mind to stop where I am and hit her with 600 in the sprint and shoot it with another coat or two of clear. Is there any Conn's in doing this?
Thanks DUB, I have half a mind to stop where I am and hit her with 600 in the sprint and shoot it with another coat or two of clear. Is there any Conn's in doing this?
NO CONS...I 'double dip' cars quite often. The main thing is that if you see shiny clear.....then you KNOW the clear will NOT stick....repeat..>WILL NOT STICK.
So the prep for a 'double dipping' is quite crucial. As long as you get the clear dull...you should be OK...but that does not mean dull it out with compound....it does need to be scuffed....and ANY thoughts on this...contact the paint manufacturer and ask their tech dept. They may have a preference.
I am not wanting to make you PARANOID...I am only commenting on the obvious...and not my opinion. The clear coat manufacturer should have guide line on how much should be on the panel when it is all said and done.
Once again...so many variables do come into play....how much you sanded on it....how bad the texture was before sanding....the type of paint gun you used (HVLP or not)...just so many variables.
[QUOTE=Dt86;1590720929]Looks very nice! How do you like the m105 and m205?
Thanks, The m105 worked well and it doesn't take much product. The qt I have well last me a long time. Probably have to use it on my Eldorado. As for the m205 I haven't used it yet the pictures are after compound only.
DUB what grit would you advise to sand the clear with?
In 99% of the cases on panels where the clear is really slick....I start with 1500.
If it is the side where the texture might be a bit more....I STILL use 1500 and stick it out.
I use 1000 grit to remove nibs and get it flat...then go to 1500.
If I have texture issues....and the texture is bad enough.....I use the 1000 grit and take it down to about 75-90% and leave a little bit of texture so I can get it out with my 1500 grit and KNOW that I have removed my 1000 grit sand scratches.
Well… round two begins. Not happy with the results fortunately I didn’t re-assemble the car last fall. Below is where I wanted to get to but just couldn’t get there without going through to color wet sanding in a many areas to get it flat. The picture was taken under the portable car port/paint booth Sunday with a bit of rain coming down. Yes I want it as perfect as I can get it.
Most all the main body is now down to 800 grit. One more time with 600 and I’ll re-shoot color and clear. Fortunately I should be able to salvage the bumpers, front lower fenders, Mirrors, all the ground effects, and rear wing.
Is it okay to use a solvent base grease & wax remover or should I use a waterborne? An old time painter also told me Windex can be used is there any truth to that or was he pulling my leg?
Is it okay to use a solvent base grease & wax remover or should I use a waterborne? An old time painter also told me Windex can be used is there any truth to that or was he pulling my leg?
I use a solvent based 'wax and grease' remover in cases like this when you are wiping the prepped paint so you can paint on it.
I DO use the waterborne cleaners...but they have more of a specific use. And this is not one of them.
I do not know if I would use 'Windex'. Sounds like someone trying to save a buck.
And...people can use whatever they like...HECK..I do not have to warranty the paint work.
Thanks DUB, solvent it is and I can save a buck because I still have enough from the last round. Just got back in from wet sanding to 600, all that's left is the lower doors, louvers on the cowl, and edges. Clean her up, tape/paper it off and wait for warmer weather. Once I put the plastic up it shouldn't be long and it will be warm enough inside the booth.
I did purchase a different gun, a Devilbiss GTI Pro Base 1.3 on eBay to clear it this time. I've heard it's supposed to be a good clear gun. It has to do a better job than the HF gun I used. Live & learn, the hard way, story of my life.
Thanks DUB, solvent it is and I can save a buck because I still have enough from the last round. Just got back in from wet sanding to 600, all that's left is the lower doors, louvers on the cowl, and edges. Clean her up, tape/paper it off and wait for warmer weather. Once I put the plastic up it shouldn't be long and it will be warm enough inside the booth.
I did purchase a different gun, a Devilbiss GTI Pro Base 1.3 on eBay to clear it this time. I've heard it's supposed to be a good clear gun. It has to do a better job than the HF gun I used. Live & learn, the hard way, story of my life.
Sounds good....but for what it is worth....just in case you did not plan on doing this.... I would shoot a test panel ...basecoat and then use clearcoat with the new gun and get it 'dialed in'...so when you paint your car ...you have it figured out and understand what is going to happen when you do.
What are you applying the VPA on???? IF you are applying it to FRESH paint or CLEAR....NO!
Depending on the size of these pinholes....you can mix up a CORRECT RATIO of your clear...IF these pinholes are in the clear....then dab some on it...allow it to dry and block it....that way you are applying the same material on the same material and not having a conflict. KEEP IN MIND...that putting a small dab in the pinhole is fine...but IF the pin hole is shiny...then you need to go down into the pinhole with the point of an EXACTO blade to scuff it....BECAUSE NOTHING sticks to up prepped paint/clear....at least not for long. AND if you find that your clear is runny and wants to run out of the pinhole and down the side of a panel...then let it set up a little bit and thicken so it can hang on the side of a panel if needed.
I do this and I use drop as my gauge...so two drops of clear and one drop of hardener does my clear. And..I may put a small drop and then come back and do it again if needed.
Thanks DUB, fortunately the pinholes are on the hood so running out shouldn't be a problem.
I only noticed them because of the clear turning white when wet sanding so the holes have the residue in them. It's either the clear or I guess it could be the compound from buffing last fall and I just didn't notice it at the time.
Looks like we should be in the low 70's late next week with 50% humidity so I should be able to re-spray then.
Thanks DUB, fortunately the pinholes are on the hood so running out shouldn't be a problem.
I only noticed them because of the clear turning white when wet sanding so the holes have the residue in them. It's either the clear or I guess it could be the compound from buffing last fall and I just didn't notice it at the time.
Looks like we should be in the low 70's late next week with 50% humidity so I should be able to re-spray then.
If you wet out these spots and they disappear ...it is clear in them...IF these spots still show specks...then it is compound. Either way...just make sure that these pinholes...if you can see then when cleaned out are shiny..I would make every attempt to get something in the pinhole to put some type off abrasion in it.
Do I need to take this down any further to re-shoot? Looks like I should go further on the little darker spots or am I nit-picking? Note that this hasn't been cleaned off yet,
10-18-2015, 06:20 PM
As for the m205 I haven't used it yet the pictures are after compound only.
If you wet out these spots and they disappear ...it is clear in them...IF these spots still show specks...then it is compound. Either way...just make sure that these pinholes...if you can see then when cleaned out are shiny..I would make every attempt to get something in the pinhole to put some type off abrasion in it.
