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I’m going to prep for 89 coupe for paint this winter but I’m not sure what I should use to repair the hood.
It has a 4” cowl added that is cracked pretty much all the way around. It’s a little hard to see in the pictures. I was told by someone to use 3m panel bound would this work or is there something else I should use? There is also a fairly deep gouge about 7 inches round that needs to be filled. Looks someone may have set down a grinder on it before it was turned off.
Need more photos of the damage and what the underside of the hood looks like. I assume that the hood scoop is bonded on. Is it bonded or bolted in place????
Need a decent close up of the damaged area on the hood.
The repair procedure is depending on what was used to do this hood scoop.
It's hard to tell how this was attached. I assume it is just bonded with bondo and I don't see any bolts on the underside. The hood was cut open when I got the car, someone must have thought it would make a functioning scoop? But it was convenient for me to put the HSR on.
I had the brand name of the cowl at one time when I found it and the stalker noise cone on a website but am unable to find it again. It may have given an idea how they are attached?
I was able to easily pick a chunk off with my fingers seen in the second picture. I thought the crack went all the way around but its just in the front and a few places on the sides. If the pictures are any help what would be the best way to tackle this? Also is it a lot more work to change the color? I will be painting the entire car either way, the paint looks like a Maaco job. Not terrible but I'm sure I could do better even though I have painted a car in 40+ years. LOL
So the seam going around the scoop has been filled in so there is NO SEAM showing...correct????
DID they cut out the underside???? Which is why I need a photo.
I can tell you that from what I can see...it was NOT installed correctly.
Are the two NACA air ducts cut out so air and get in???? You photo is hard to tell. If they are...one problem is...... WATER. If they did not correctly drill drain holes on the undies of the hood...the hood scoop will hold water...and cause problems. ONCE AGAIN...I can not see the underside which makes a big difference.
As stated the underside is cut open but only about 8" wide not nearly the width of the scoop. I can take a picture of it but it will tell nothing because you can not see where the seams would be, that part of the underside is still in tact. The two vents in front are open as with the fins on the sides and the rear is also fully open so any incoming air just goes out the sides and back. Being it is non functional and only for looks and allowing the HSR to be used II'll probably block off the front.
As stated the underside is cut open but only about 8" wide not nearly the width of the scoop. I can take a picture of it but it will tell nothing because you can not see where the seams would be, that part of the underside is still in tact. The two vents in front are open as with the fins on the sides and the rear is also fully open so any incoming air just goes out the sides and back. Being it is non functional and only for looks and allowing the HSR to be used II'll probably block off the front.
With the hood being cut...and YES a photo helps. This is the first time you mentioned the width of the cut-out. I do this stuff for a living. I am asking because I am trying to help you and I need to see it. Whenever a hood is cut for a scoop....to open up the underside for a high rise carb or whatever It can weaken the hood and allow more flex in the hood when raised due to the center has been cut out...and YES...it makes a difference. I would not ask for photos if it weren't important. The size of this cut out matters.
Because the center has been cut out and it does not matter that the rear and sides are cut out....if at the bottom where this problem is occurring....does NOT have a drain holes of decent size...it will hold water...because the hole in the underside where it was cut out is not cut right to the front edge of the scoop.
Here's a picture of the butchered underside. I was able to put my hand inside and felt a lip that apparently sets on top the hood. I assume there is panel bond between the lip and hood to adhere it to the hood and just bondo on the outside. There are also two bolts (not pictured) in the rear that appear to be going into the cowl.
Can the cutout area be removed entirely to clean it up? It doesn't look like it would do much structurally at least the way it is now?
WHAT A FUSTER CLUCK !!!! For what it is worth...I have dealt with bogus installations like this.
A lot depends on what was used to bond this scoop on...and if the inside is cut out further...it could possibly weaken it a bit more. Hard to say.
Which is why the material used to bond it on is important and hopefully it will stay put. I guess when a good visual inspection of the bonding material can be seen...then the choice will be up to you on what you may wan to do with it.
With the material popping off like in your one photo....that is NOT a good sign. That is kinda telling me we have a moisture issue.
Yeah its not pretty. I think I'm going to chance it and cut the rest out and hope for the best. I can't believe the little bit of material there is doing much of anything.
Ounce it's cut out I can see if using a small pry bar or screw driver will pop if off and re-bond it. If it stays put I should have enough access to glass it from the top side of the lip wrapping to the underside of the hood to reinforce it. Than take the die grinder to the top I assume VPA would be used to fill the top side?
Yeah its not pretty. I think I'm going to chance it and cut the rest out and hope for the best. I can't believe the little bit of material there is doing much of anything.
Ounce it's cut out I can see if using a small pry bar or screw driver will pop if off and re-bond it. If it stays put I should have enough access to glass it from the top side of the lip wrapping to the underside of the hood to reinforce it. Than take the die grinder to the top I assume VPA would be used to fill the top side?
YES...VPA can be used to fill in the seam...but that depends if any laminating or bonding is needed. The VPA will not hold a poor bond...it will FAIL.
Why does it say FOR Non-SMC Fiberglass Panels on the can of Evercoat Vette Adhesive/Filler? Also any idea how much I'll need for this scoop?
Evercoat's Vette Panel Adhesive/Filler is both. An adhesive....which works on NON-SMC panels for bonding ONLY .....BUT....is a filler that works on BOTH. The can should state that clearly.
SO...you can not bond this scoop ( which is fiberglass) onto a SMC panel. The VPA would stick to the scoop...but NOT the SMC..
But once you did get the scoop bonded in place. The VPA can be used to fill in the seam.
It all depends on how good you are with applying filler. A quart may be fine...or maybe two of them...hard to say. I buy the VPA by the gallon...so I do not think about it.
Also...it would be worth your time to call Evercoat and find out their method of being able to read the date code on the can. SO...you do not buy some that has been on the shelf for 5 years and then come back and write that the stuff is no good. THAT is up to you.
YES...it is WORTH YOUR TIME!!!!
And while you have them on the phone...you can verify what I wrote about the VPA is correct as being a filler for SMC.
Thanks DUB, great advice calling Evercoat on the date code. Appreciate your help! I haven't gotten back to the car today, maybe tomorrow.
Just trying to help out....and you would be surprised on how many people will not call and ASSUME that 5 year old product is going to perform as needed. It just boggles my mind.
DUB, what brand paint do you recommend for a bc/cc? I assume if I change from torch red to a blue I’ll also need to put down a primer? Is a Pearl paint any more difficult to work with than an opaque? Thanks
DUB, what brand paint do you recommend for a bc/cc? I assume if I change from torch red to a blue I’ll also need to put down a primer? Is a Pearl paint any more difficult to work with than an opaque? Thanks
I use NEXA...which is sold at a PPG automotive paint supplier.
Yes...a primer and or sealer is needed.
Pearls and metallic's are more tricky...but not impossible to apply. It takes a bit more practice. Solid colors a re obviously easier for 'first timers'...but that ...once again...depends if you PRACTICE and understand how to shoot a pearl/metallic. I have not problem with either...but I have hundreds of hours experience using a paint gun.
Depending on the color you choose....if it has pearls in it...you have to look at the ratio of pearl to the total amount of paint. SO...for example....this blue you want....if it has 145 grams of blue pearl and the total weight of the formula is 300 grams. Then the paint is going to be VERY TRANSPARENT ( because pearls do not cover quickly)....and will take several coats to achieve full hiding. IF this occurs....what I do is mix an opaque color VERY CLOSE to the color it will end up looking like and shot the car with it first to get it CLOSE to the color I want. Then apply the pearl paint formula to it so save on time and paint being used.
Then...obviously if there is only 10 grams of pearl to 300 grams total weight...and the other toners/pigments are strong pigments...the color will cover quickly.
I have using NEXA for so long...I can look at the formula and know right off the bat how it will cover.
Does anyone have any experience with Eastwood paints? They have a Blue Pearl I like. Also how much paint should I expect to go through on a coupe? Thanks
Does anyone have any experience with Eastwood paints? They have a Blue Pearl I like. Also how much paint should I expect to go through on a coupe? Thanks
Eastwood does not manufacture their own paints...and when it comes to getting a color...basically any color....most if not all paint companies can mix the same color...and that is if the person mixing the color has a good eye for color.
I can not tell you how much paint...like I wrote in a recent post...It has EVERYTHING to do with how much actual pearl is in the color due to it being so translucent. the higher the percentage of pearl with to overall all weight when the formula has been completed makes all the difference in the world.
There are ways to save on paint...but it all depends ....and a test panel MUST be sprayed to make sure the end result is what YOU want...much like I do for customers BEFORE I go and paint it.
NOW...I am speaking about the system I use which is NEXA......I can not confirm or deny that any other paint system would do the same as what I can do with what I know about NEXA....which is sold where PPG is sold....and IS NOT A LOWER GRADE PPG PAINT...it is all its own....and is just being sold at PPG dealers.
11-26-2014, 10:07 AM
Preping for Paint
