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Due to an old back injury flair up I haven’t been able to work on the car till now.
I still intend on painting the entire car but not with a color change I decided it would be too much work for me at this time. This being said what primer should be used on the repair and will I need to DA the entire car or will scuffing with a scotch bright suffice?
Prepping the finish on the rest of the car only requires that it is dulled out. I generally watersand them by hand if the finish is in good condition. This way I am not breaking through the clearcoat if the layer is thin.
Use a DA if you like....but as you know...you can do more damage with a DA if you do not know what you are doing with it.
AS for the primer...it depends on the repair and if you are needing a heavy/high build primer or not.
No matter what....you want to use a primer that is catalyzed.
Which needs to be used Urethane or Epoxy primer over VPA & SMC?
Epoxy primer is what I would use in this scenario.
Also..this can come back unless you address the area where water can lay on the backside of where it bubbled and flaked off. You currently have a gutter now....and when washing the car and whatever...water is able to lay in this pocket and case for this to occur all over again. Also...If I were doing this I would have to cut back the body filler that is there and see how badly stained and compromised the SMC of the hood is due to over exposure to water.
Thanks DUB, If I were to close off the two openings in the front would would be the procedure or would I not be able to make it look like they were never there?
You could close off the duct openings by fiberglassing them in. That would stop water from getting into the engine compartment.
Or you can carefully find the bottom of the hood scoop where your problem is currently and drill a few holes so if any water does get in the space...it can flow out and not collect. This is what I would do...if you are wanting the ducts to function.
Yup! Still trying to get the car painted but my back hasn’t been cooperating. I was able to finish up the cowl put epoxy primer on it and a few rattle cans of Duplicolor color match so it could sit out in the elements. I had to get the car out of my neighbor’s garage.
I took the rear wing off after work today and I’m thinking I like it better without it. Will VPA fill the bolt holes left behind if I leave the wing off? I also need to get the trim off are they attached with an adhesive? I checked the FSM but couldn’t find any info.
NO...Vette Panel Adhesive (VPA) can not be used by itself to fill in the holes where the wing was installed. It can be used as a filler for any final filling to get the body flat... Another product needs to be sued to fill in the holes. These are not going to be easy and can come back. I would sue WEST SYSTEMS epoxy resin and mat to fill in these holes.
I do not know what you mean by 'trim' You have to be very specific.
The trim is bolted on. There are studs in the trim that go thru the body panels and held on with nuts, 10mm socket I believe. Occasionally the stud will spin when you try to remove the nut. When this happened I used a cut off wheel to cut the stud off. Be careful of heat doing this especially on the bumper as it can start to melt the hole larger in the bumper, ask me how I know.
Last edited by 929nitro; Jun 12, 2015 at 07:29 AM.
Sorry for the confusion Dub, I was calling the molding trim.
I found there are only two nuts to be removed for the door molding and a half dozen or so clips. I was unable to get at a couple of them from inside the door to squeeze them out and they broke upon removal. Are these clips available any ware? There is also adhesive back rubber or foam strips about 2” long behind the molding are these also available? Or can something else be used.
Sorry for the confusion Dub, I was calling the molding trim. I found there are only two nuts to be removed for the door molding and a half dozen or so clips. I was unable to get at a couple of them from inside the door to squeeze them out and they broke upon removal. Are these clips available any ware? There is also adhesive back rubber or foam strips about 2” long behind the molding are these also available? Or can something else be used.
I may have some spring clips if you can't find them anywhere. How many do you need?
So thats what there called? Do you know if there available any where I belive four of them broke. Probably going to leave the rest of the molding on and tape instead?
What a difference less back pain does for a guy. Had a productive day off work today.
Did what I could with the DA and 320 to remove a lot of orange peel from the PO paint job I'll go everything with 1,000 grit tomorrow.
Tried to get the rear wrap off today too and 2 of the bolts broke off. The dam things are molded into the wrap like a stud so now I'll probably have to break a few more to get it off and VPA some new ones in. One is going to be a real chalenge it's right behind what I believe is the energy obsorbor where a socket is never going to get on it. I might be able to get the drumal in there and cut it off.
Goiong to have to learn how to change the date on the camera or turn it off. LOL
No need for 1000 grit if you're going to be priming and painting this. The pros will chime in but I'd think that 320 is about as smooth as I'd go before primer.
I have a few very small spots to touch up with VPA then I thought I could just prime those spots and shoot color. Will this require a K2 Primer? If so I suppose it will need to be sanded again?
Before any sanding was done...reading Post#22.....the first paragraph could have helped out quite a bit. And if questions on the next step...thus being beginning to prep the rear paint for the paint job could have been asked and replies could have been further explain to save you time. Jumping in and sanding it and now asking what to do next is a bit confusing to me.
I do not know the condition of the paint...so I do not know what to do here to help you. There are 'tricks' to prepping a car for paint that can GREATLY reduce time and possible areas that can react badly...due to sanding on it and going all the way down to the body or factory primer. Which is why I mentioned in post#22 WATERSANDING it. Using a DA is an option...but it depends on the direction YOU want to take it. So I am confused on what you 'game plan' was or is...and what is going to be done about the areas that you shot the rattle can "Dupli-Color' paint.
The Duplicolor has also be dulled with 320 I didn't go down to primer in any are I sanded.
BUT...the Dupli-Color is NOT a catalyzed product. So if you go an put good automotive paint/primer/sealer over it...it is possible that it can react with the Dupli-color and wrinkle, lift or bubble.
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