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So to be safe I should sand off completly what I did with Duplicolor and K2 prime it?
I would...mainly because I would NOT have used Dupli-Color on the car initially....but I do not know how the surface was when you shot the aerosol Dupli-Color. You went almost 2 months then showed what you did....kinda hard to give guidance when choices or processes are being used and not know of them. So it it hard to comment on anything and wonder if it is going to fail or not.
Yup! In the process of removing it don’t want to take any chances. What would be black under the paint, Primer? There are a couple spots that this came up while wet sanding the doors.
Yup! In the process of removing it don’t want to take any chances. What would be black under the paint, Primer? There are a couple spots that this came up while wet sanding the doors.
Thanks DUB! I had hoped that would be the case. I had thought I read that in another thread but couldn’t fine it again to verify.
I’m in the process of sanding off the Duplicolor what a Pain especially the gills in the cowl. I had to go down to a 60 grit to get it off.
I’ve decided I’m going to use PPG Deltron 2000 so I guess I’ll have to use their DPLF epoxy primer as well unless there are others that would be compatable with the Deltron. I’m hoping to only need a quart and get by with just doing the hood & front bumper and spots where I sanded a bit too much.
I’m also going to remove the rest of the trim if the clips break I’m hoping the 3M trim tape I saw at the auto store will hold it on. At lest there are a couple bolts in each section to keep them from coming off completely if the tape doesn’t hold it. I was able to get a few of them from DT86 (thanks again Dave).
Oh! I also had the pleasure of removing the taillights boy was that ever fun! I’m going to need to have someone with much smaller arms than I to put them back in I had enough trouble getting them out.
AS for the molding coming off...you can kinda forget all about using 3M tape to hold any of them on...it will not work...and if it does.,..only for a very short while. The moldings need to go back on as designed.
AS for the foam tape on the door moldings...you do not have to worry about them...but the clips need to be there.
I would detach the rear bumper so there is a gap...so the paint does not bridge the seam when painting. PAIN in the backside...yes....but worth it....depends on the person and what they want.
Are the fasteners for the rear bumper accessible? Will they break off trying to get them off? I would also like to remove the front bumper but haven’t had a chance to see how it’s attached either. At the very least the lights will have to be removed and the headlights too.
Has anybody used or know if Matrix MS-42 clear coat is good?
Are the fasteners for the rear bumper accessible? Will they break off trying to get them off? I would also like to remove the front bumper but haven’t had a chance to see how it’s attached either. At the very least the lights will have to be removed and the headlights too. Has anybody used or know if Matrix MS-42 clear coat is good?
They are accessible. The ones near the gas door are a bit of a pain. Here's a photo to show you where they are.
Now doesn’t that look like fun? Sure are a lot of fasteners holding it on if that’s what all the holes are for? Will any of the bolts break off? You weren’t kidding when you said you had a whole car to put back together. I guess I’ll be in the same boat if I attempt to get the bumper off. To do this right I guess I probably should or at least loosen it up like Dub suggested which I think I’ll opt for versus removal. I’ll see where this goes once I get started on it.
Now doesn’t that look like fun? Sure are a lot of fasteners holding it on if that’s what all the holes are for? Will any of the bolts break off? You weren’t kidding when you said you had a whole car to put back together. I guess I’ll be in the same boat if I attempt to get the bumper off. To do this right I guess I probably should or at least loosen it up like Dub suggested which I think I’ll opt for versus removal. I’ll see where this goes once I get started on it.
I have a thread I started which may help you some. The sides have brackets with threaded studs. I had some issues with corroded nuts. You definately want to at least loosen them enough to make a gap otherwise your paint will chip and peel on the seam.
Heres a link to my thread.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-general-discussion/3540555-starting-the-teardown.html
7mm across the top. 10mm at the rear corners where the bumper curves down the back edge of the quarter....2 - 10mm on each side by your side marker light.....and 2- 10mm carriage bolts and nut assembles right behind each reverse light....then the obvious Torx screws that secure the wheel well liner the the bumper cover.
Thanks DUB, much appreciated. Do you know anything about Matrix MS-42 clear coat?
I used the MATRIX clear MANY years ago. More than likely forgot more than I can remember due to not using it.
*****PROFESSIONAL ADVICE******
IF a person is using a product that they have NEVER sued before. It is wise for this person to TAKE THE TIME....(yes I wrote it)....and CALL the tech department and ask questions. And I can tell you that any seasoned painter...if faced with using a product that they have not ever used...will shoot it and see what it does and how it reacts....so they know what to expect. This ALSO gives the painter the ability to adjust the paint gun to get the product to lay down as needed. Becasue having the paint gun set to the widest pattern and FULL trigger travel can OFTEN times NOT be correct for the product. Not every product likes being flooded on a panel.
I managed to get the rear bumper off after work today. Yup! Decided to do it right and remove it instead of just loosening. There ended up being 5 – 11mm on each corner and 2 on each side. One of them broke on the driver’s side which I found are just press fit into a retaining bar. I believe they are available at the local hardware store if not I weld one on.
Tomorrow I’ll tackle the front bumper.
I just noticed how different my cushion bumper looks compared to Dave’s I guess mine has seen better days. Are these available anywhere new?
I managed to get the rear bumper off after work today. Yup! Decided to do it right and remove it instead of just loosening. There ended up being 5 – 11mm on each corner and 2 on each side. One of them broke on the driver’s side which I found are just press fit into a retaining bar. I believe they are available at the local hardware store if not I weld one on.
Tomorrow I’ll tackle the front bumper.
I just noticed how different my cushion bumper looks compared to Dave’s I guess mine has seen better days. Are these available anywhere new?
Oh wow looks like yours took a hit! Im sure you could find a good used one. Dont know about new?
I have seen them look like this numerous times. the right side looks like it is not attached correctly. It is hanging down a bit. Look directly above and in line with '2' of the '26' in the date of your photo. AS for replacing it. The only time I would is if the impact absorber causes a defect in the bumper covers outer surface.....or it is torn and split A LOT.
I would not worry about connecting the two broken tabs/straps. They are not that important. I would be more concerned that the section to the left of these straps is secured to the impact bar.
