Paint/Body Corvette Materials, Techniques, and How To

It's all about that base

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Old 09-25-2015, 07:22 PM
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TWINRAY
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Default It's all about that base

RM Diamont is the bomb.
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Old 09-25-2015, 07:46 PM
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porchdog
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first coat ?
Old 09-25-2015, 07:56 PM
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Most panels covered with 3. I had to deal with some issues, those panels took 4. I cut the base with the RM60 reducer 1-1. I still have to do the door jams that are on the door. It took so far 3 qts. I used my new (to me) Tekna Pro Lite. Amazing the difference a good gun makes. Thanks for giving me the ok on the RM.

Last edited by TWINRAY; 09-25-2015 at 08:05 PM.
Old 09-25-2015, 08:01 PM
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I did the doors like this. I have to do the jams . This photo was before base.
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Old 09-26-2015, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by porchdog
first coat ?
The photo wasn't after my final coat. But I will look over today to make sure I have complete coverage. I finished late. I posted via my phone and didnt see the weak spots. 'll update the photo's today. Thanks.
Old 09-26-2015, 12:49 PM
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is that dark green met ? it may be the met i'm seeing.
Old 09-26-2015, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by porchdog
is that dark green met ? it may be the met i'm seeing.
No I think even after 1 other coat after I posted, it was light on the inside ridge of the drivers side top surround. Then I thought I saw some "maybes" so I mixed a qt RTS and gave it all another go around. I have just enough mixed up for the hood and when my wife gets home, we'll put the hood back and I'll give that a shot to. It'll leave me with + half qt of paint left for the jams.
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Old 09-26-2015, 04:49 PM
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Are you temporarily mounting the doors and blowing a coat on them to get them to blend in and match with the quarters and fenders??? The reason is that painting the car with them off and getting the jambs on the main body is fine. BUT...if you do not have the doors on the car....WHEN you spray your final coat. THERE IS a chance that the doors will not match the body perfectly....due to metallic structure and coverage issues . Solid colors are often times not problem so much...but metallics can come back and get you when you pull it outside and look at it from a short distance (50-100 ft) and see that the doors are off in color saturation. And due to this color being a metallic. There are three angles that it needs to be viewed at. looking straight at it.....then at a 45 degree angle.....then down the side. And the BEST ( and worst) type of light is a overcast day. THAT will let you know for a FACT that you got it RIGHT. A sunny day is too bright. A person can easily get blinded. Overcast days....they can be my NEMESIS.

And you also wan tot manually hold the headlight bucket where it goes with one hand and blow paint on it and make sure that it is blended out also.

YES...I like the RM also....it works very much like NEXA.....not exactly the same but some darn good paint! Just did a spot repair for a black 63 SWC and it turned out flawless.

LOOKING VERY GOOD TWINRAY!!!!!

DUB
Old 09-26-2015, 05:28 PM
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Looks good. I really like that color. Painting the sides looks fun. Better hurry up and finish. It's getting cool here in NY!
Old 09-26-2015, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Dt86
Better hurry up and finishes. It's getting cool here in NY!
Yea, tell me about it.
Old 09-26-2015, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
Are you temporarily mounting the doors and blowing a coat on them to get them to blend in and match with the quarters and fenders??? The reason is that painting the car with them off and getting the jambs on the main body is fine. BUT...if you do not have the doors on the car....WHEN you spray your final coat. THERE IS a chance that the doors will not match the body perfectly....due to metallic structure and coverage issues . Solid colors are often times not problem so much...but metallics can come back and get you when you pull it outside and look at it from a short distance (50-100 ft) and see that the doors are off in color saturation. And due to this color being a metallic. There are three angles that it needs to be viewed at. looking straight at it.....then at a 45 degree angle.....then down the side. And the BEST ( and worst) type of light is a overcast day. THAT will let you know for a FACT that you got it RIGHT. A sunny day is too bright. A person can easily get blinded. Overcast days....they can be my NEMESIS.

And you also wan tot manually hold the headlight bucket where it goes with one hand and blow paint on it and make sure that it is blended out also.

YES...I like the RM also....it works very much like NEXA.....not exactly the same but some darn good paint! Just did a spot repair for a black 63 SWC and it turned out flawless.

LOOKING VERY GOOD TWINRAY!!!!!

DUB
Hi DUB, I am doing the doors off the car. All should be OK. I'M doing the doors the same day as the car, same gun setting and same paint mixture. Also, when I finish the front and rear fenders and come off the gun, I don't have to worry about the pause paint accumulating on the door. I wanted to clear today but saw some matbe light spots which initiated another coat. All looks good and VERY EVEN. Tomorrow may well be my last chance to finish with clear this year. I want to do 2-4 coats of SPI CLEAR tomorrow. I can then finagle my door jams even if I paint during the day and bring the doors inside during the night. Thanks for your help in this project then next year I can focus on finishing the '69 and redoing my S10 Blazer, and fixing clear coat problems on our Jeep.

Last edited by TWINRAY; 09-27-2015 at 08:55 AM.

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