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Anybody out there looking for a new paint gun I highly recommend the Sata 4000 B RP, I'm in no way a dealer or anything but I'm just very happy with my purchase. This is not an inexpensive gun by any means but it is well worth it. I know it was helpful for me to read reviews on how people liked or didn't like paint guns so I figured I would do a mini review myself.
Paint: DCC 9300 PPG Concept, DU5, DT 860 reducer.
Air pressure to the gun: 2 bar which is just a tick under 30 psi.
Air temp 64 degrees
The first two photos are how the paint was applied right out of the gun. The third and forth are after it was sanded to 3000 grit in 4 steps and buffed with the Chemical Guys 32,34,36 & 38 system which is a great system also.
Yes this is really how it came out of the gun.
You can see a very slight orange peel if you look at how the reflection of the lights on my ceiling. I would classify the orange peel as how OEM factory paint looks like on many car out there.
After cut and buff.
You will notice there is no wave when looking at the ceiling light with reference to the original photo above.
AWESOME...it IS all a balancing act...the proper paint gun with the correct fluid tip...the CORRECT mix on the paint, reducer and hardener for the current air temps....so THEY all have to come together....ALONG with applying it correctly.
The GREAT thing about getting the paint to look slick right out of the gun..is that the effort to sand it and get that slick and buffed is NO WHERE the same as when there is a butt-load of texture and orange peel.
Looks awesome. Did you go from 3000 wet to V32 with a foam pad? Isn't that going backwards as the v32 takes out 12-1500 grit scratches. This is the range C.C. gave me.
v32 1200-1500
v34 1500-2000
v36 2000-2500
v38 polish
I'm about to cut and buff a car this week and will try going from 2500 wet to V36, but was wondering what your experience was.
Looks awesome. Did you go from 3000 wet to V32 with a foam pad? Isn't that going backwards as the v32 takes out 12-1500 grit scratches. This is the range C.C. gave me.
v32 1200-1500
v34 1500-2000
v36 2000-2500
v38 polish
I'm about to cut and buff a car this week and will try going from 2500 wet to V36, but was wondering what your experience was.
First don't stop at 2500 go to 3000 it only makes it easier to buff out. Second do all 4 steps on the CG's system. You want to make the buffing step as easy as possible which only keeps your chances of buff through or over heating the new paint to a minimum.
Anybody out there looking for a new paint gun I highly recommend the Sata 4000 B RP, I'm in no way a dealer or anything but I'm just very happy with my purchase. This is not an inexpensive gun by any means but it is well worth it. I know it was helpful for me to read reviews on how people liked or didn't like paint guns so I figured I would do a mini review myself.
Paint: DCC 9300 PPG Concept, DU5, DT 860 reducer.
Air pressure to the gun: 2 bar which is just a tick under 30 psi.
Air temp 64 degrees
The first two photos are how the paint was applied right out of the gun. The third and forth are after it was sanded to 3000 grit in 4 steps and buffed with the Chemical Guys 32,34,36 & 38 system which is a great system also.
Yes this is really how it came out of the gun.
You can see a very slight orange peel if you look at how the reflection of the lights on my ceiling. I would classify the orange peel as how OEM factory paint looks like on many car out there.
After cut and buff.
You will notice there is no wave when looking at the ceiling light with reference to the original photo above.
I use my Sata 4000 with 1.4 for clear coat and Iwata w/ 1.3 for base coats. found this cars a year to work very well for me. shoot 6 to 10 customs a year. I get very good reviews at car shows.
I tried several HVLP guns and did not like them. I had been shooting high pressure guns for so many years, that I found it hard to adjust to the slower application of the HVLP guns.
I bought a SATA RP Digital gun over 10 years ago, and have not used another gun since, except for primer and jambs. It is without a doubt, the best gun I have ever owned, and shoots almost exactly like a high pressure gun, with the transfer efficiency of a HVLP gun.
I was lucky enough to have bought my gun before SATA shut down the selling of guns over the internet. The same gun that I bought for a shade over $400, is now $700, since you have to buy from your local source!
I understand that they are trying to protect their local sellers, but it sure made the price of their guns jump!
A worthwhile option on the RP gun, is the integrated digital air micrometer built into the handle of the gun. With the digital micrometer, I can make sure that every setup is exactly the same as the one I used before.
Probably the highest priced gun on the market, but still a good value in my opinion, if you use it enough to justify.
Back in the 'day' I shot with siphon feed guns (Sharpe's and Binks) and then gravity feed SATA JET90's....and when I went to HVLP SATA's. There was a slight re-learning curve when i wen tot HVLP...but not so bad that it was a problem for me. But having been shooting with HVLP's for so long now...and getting the newer,better guns that are EPA compliant for paint transfer....I personally like them and can get my clear to lay out like what is shown in the photos above when the panel is horizontal. Which I know this black panel was laying flat when shot and the photo taken is the flat horizontal surface.
This can easily be detected by looking at the refection of the texture on the right side of this lower exhaust filler panel where the license plate goes. You can see the reflection of the support stand. Which this is a vertical surface...thus texture is greater than the horizontal surface.
Regardless of that...which is not bad thing...as I wrote before...this is very nice looking. Just do not want some people venturing into painting there own Corvette that getting the entire exterior to be as slick as what is shown in the photo is just not going to happen straight out of the gun. Not unless numerous 'things' align perfectly.
Originally Posted by 4 Speed Dave
Any painter with any experience will tell you that you can get the horizontal flat surfaces to flow out like glass but attempting to achieve that same slickness on the sides of the car is REALLY, REALLY HARD TO DO and the chance of having runs or sags GREATLY increases.
DUB is exactly right. Vertical surfaces are way more difficult to achieve that kind of flow. I painted the doors hung vertical from the door hinges the long direction so as to be able to paint all around the door jambs and top interior portion. They came out very nice right out of the gun but not as nice as the hood or rear valance that was laid flat when painting. In the end it doesn't really matter too much as it is all wet sanded down to 3000 but the nicer it is out of the gun the easier it is to cut and buff. Here is a photo of the door after paining prior to wet sanding it isn't a close up but you can tell it isn't as nice as the rear valance prior to wet sanding.
As previously stated there is way more to laying down paint like this. The gun is only one of many factors.
03-29-2016, 12:17 PM
Sata 4000 B RP = Awesome
