73BBVette

This is the thread I started in the C3 Technical forum which really should go in this forum.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...***-issue.html

Just to add, I went out and used 80 grit by hand on a small section and the material did remove, mostly. I followed with 200 grit, then with a damp scouring pad removed all the dust. Its looking much better, and more like other surfaces on the car that stripped clean to the smc. However, there's still some specks of material there, and im worried if I keep at it, im going to start exposing fibers from the glass. Perhaps an intermediate grit? Or just stay with the 80. I've gathered from reading that a lot of what I do now depends on many factors that needed to have been planned before I even started taking old paint off.

DUB

I KNOW this may seem crazy...but I do it from time to time.

You need to get a really good magnifying glass and look at the specks or pock marks and see if you can tell that they are actually look more like a craters when you magnify it. I use my 10X jewelers loupe myself....just for scenarios like this.

I can only assume that these where specks I can see are NOT on top of the SMC....where the panel feels like braille.

I am seeing red oxide primer in the bottom left of your photo...which tells me the panel is not completely stripped. And if you used the citrus strip and allowed it to stay on the panel too long...or reapplied it on an area that was previously stripped and allowed that to stay on that area too long. The stripper could and eaten into the SMC...but it is hard to say due to not knowing exactly how you stripped it. Using chemical stripper can work with no problems if it is used correctly and tested to find the time and amount needed to remove what is being removed. I AM NOT implying you used the stripper incorrectly. SO I am just guessing here at a 'Jeopardy' puzzle with no squares turned over.

DUB

73BBVette

Ill go find my magnifying glass and take a look tomorrow, but I think those specs are on top of the smc. I did do a test with the citristrip, and based on the outdoor temp of over 90 degrees, , 20 minutes was as long as I let it set. I usually did about a 2 ft. square section at a time. (About all I could take at a time too.) Once the section was stripped, I scrubbed down with water on the scotchbrite pad until the water was clean.
I usually did a couple sections on the car, then a day or two later did some sanding. Thats been the extent of it. These scabby patches just had me puzzled and I think I've been too timid with my sanding.
I'll start another thread on the floor boards in a few days when I get some time to take some decent pictures.
Thanks, HR

73BBVette

It may help to show the body surface before I ever did anything to it. Although it's a picture of the dipstick......it does show the texture of what's left of the paint.

With a magnifying glass and my iPhone.....I took this picture after a fair amount of sanding with 80 grit.


The surface feel smooth to the touch, but I'm sure that doesn't mean much in good body work. I have not sanded down to any fibers yet. Next pic is of the residue I've been sanding off. Maybe useless info....don't know.

DUB

I have seen the paint looking like that many times. This usually tells me that the car was left outside and possible covered up.

I honestly do not think you have much to worry about.

The residue you showed in your photo just lets me know that...like normal...it may take a bit of blocking to get these pock marks down.

What I am more concerned about....it when you look at the photo of the panel after it had been sanded....and some of these pock marks are still there.....you can see...at least form what it looks like from my looking at it is that these pock marks are LOWER than the surface.

I do know that photos can fool the eye..and these white spots are actually higher...like you mentioned. If they are...block the heck out of them and try to make sure you get the surface as free and clear of any indication where they were....if possible.

DUB