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Fiberglass issue.

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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 09:32 AM
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Default Fiberglass issue.

Im not sure what's going on here. I feel like im about to start sanding into the fiberglass, (smc). I used citri-strip and plastic putty knives to remove the old paint and primer. Ive sanded lightly but still have this weird surface on various places, primarily the top side of the front clip. The divots are not very deep but I doubt even multiple coats of primer would fill them. Slick sand would perhaps, but id really like a smooth surface. I have no idea what a previous owner may have sprayed the car with, but it was definitely repainted years ago. Any ideas?

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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 73BBVette
Im not sure what's going on here. I feel like im about to start sanding into the fiberglass, (smc). I used citri-strip and plastic putty knives to remove the old paint and primer. Ive sanded lightly but still have this weird surface on various places, primarily the top side of the front clip. The divots are not very deep but I doubt even multiple coats of primer would fill them. Slick sand would perhaps, but id really like a smooth surface. I have no idea what a previous owner may have sprayed the car with, but it was definitely repainted years ago. Any ideas?

I would sand it down.
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 05:17 PM
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Old fish eyes. You need to sand them off. Just ran into the same problem on my 72 I'm restoring.
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 05:55 PM
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Good deal. Any recommendations on what grit to use?
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 10:50 PM
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I think I used 220, and all by hand.
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 73BBVette
Good deal. Any recommendations on what grit to use?
This will depend on what primer(s) you intend to use. I used SPI (Southern Polyurethane Inc - recommended by many in the CF paint & bodywork forum) epoxy primer (2 coats) followed by SPI's primer.

SPI recommends 80 grit block sand for surface prep. If you shoot additional coats within 7 days, no sanding between coats is necessary. The final primer was block sanded with 400/600 grit before application od BC/CC.
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 09:31 AM
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You might want to post this in the Paint and Body section .
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Old Sep 15, 2016 | 11:48 AM
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80 grit then a 2k primer
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Old Sep 16, 2016 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by crf311
I think I used 220, and all by hand.
With all due respect....Not on your life. 220 by hand...I will see you in about 10 years...and you will still be sanding on it. 220 is too fine of a grit for this. And just like you...this is my opinion.

I can not tell what is going on in the photo that was posted. Not enough information...such as how did you neutralize the 'citrus strip'????

Did you take any rough steel wool and lacquer thinner to it and scrub it??? Or ..red scotch-brite pads and lacquer thinner to it???

It is hard to tell...but it looks like there is still coating on the panel.

Blocking it with 80 grit is fine...then switch up to 180 grit...and that all depends on what you plan on spraying on it.

DUB
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Old Sep 16, 2016 | 10:13 PM
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I neutralized the citristrip with water and a green scouring scotchbrite pad.( Didn't know about the red ones). I used no other chemicals at this point. I breifly tried some 80 grit by hand to see if it would remove. It seemed to, but I stopped at that point just because of the unsurity. The fish eye surface is only on a couple areas of the car. I had good luck in other areas stripping right down to the fiberglass. This seems like an extra layer of something between fiberglass and finish. I am trying to be careful, and not cause any further damage, hence the pause and questions.
I feel sure this fish eye condition exisited long before I got the car.
PS......to Dub, that floor board repair was a great tutorial. No roll cage to reattach but I do have some loose seams around the floor. That will help a lot.
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Old Sep 17, 2016 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 73BBVette
I neutralized the citristrip with water and a green scouring scotchbrite pad.( Didn't know about the red ones). I used no other chemicals at this point. I breifly tried some 80 grit by hand to see if it would remove. It seemed to, but I stopped at that point just because of the unsurity. The fish eye surface is only on a couple areas of the car. I had good luck in other areas stripping right down to the fiberglass. This seems like an extra layer of something between fiberglass and finish. I am trying to be careful, and not cause any further damage, hence the pause and questions.
I feel sure this fish eye condition exisited long before I got the car.
PS......to Dub, that floor board repair was a great tutorial. No roll cage to reattach but I do have some loose seams around the floor. That will help a lot.
Thanks for the reply.

I responded to the other thread you posted.

If this problem is centralized to a specific area. I would still slowly block it with 80 grit AFTER you look at it like I wrote in that other thread and get back with you findings.

It is highly possible that some other coating of some type was applied.

The one good thing about block a panel...you can control the strokes of the block.

And do not worry so much about exposing fibers. Being cautious is good...but being paranoid about it is not warranted...and that is coming from someone who deal with this stuff all the time.

AS for the seam in your floor...it might be wise to post photos of them ...and that is because what my thread is about may help. And 'double checking' what you think you need to do may be worth the effort...instead of 'fixing it' and only finding out that it was done wrong due to NOT using the correct adhesive. Something that simple can cause you do do it all over again.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; Sep 17, 2016 at 06:54 PM.
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