why can't i remove or cut the busings to lower the rear a little?
08-17-2016, 07:24 PM
#2
Race Director
Rear suspension design is such that tension needs to be removed from the spring. i.e. The ends need to be lowered.
It's so cheap and easy to install longer bolts that it doesn't make sense to cut the lower bushings down. Cutting will only lower it a tick
It's so cheap and easy to install longer bolts that it doesn't make sense to cut the lower bushings down. Cutting will only lower it a tick
08-17-2016, 07:30 PM
#3
Race Director
Just do not lower the car so much that when it is sittign STILL...that the car is LEVEL.
The rear SHOULD be raised up a bit higher than the front for the transfer of weight ....which causes the rear to go down and the cars levels out.
If you get your car LEVEL when it is sitting still.....there is a chance that when you accelerate the front end of the car will be higher than the rear...which...in my opinion is not right at all.
DUB
The rear SHOULD be raised up a bit higher than the front for the transfer of weight ....which causes the rear to go down and the cars levels out.
If you get your car LEVEL when it is sitting still.....there is a chance that when you accelerate the front end of the car will be higher than the rear...which...in my opinion is not right at all.
DUB
08-17-2016, 10:18 PM
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
i changed the stacking order of the spring mount sandwich to cheese, and lettuce and tomatoes on the bottom, i could put the patty down there, it dropped 3/8"
The following users liked this post:
The13Bats (08-19-2016)
08-18-2016, 08:20 AM
#7
Racer
08-18-2016, 09:05 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 8,871
Received 1,754 Likes
on
941 Posts
2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Are you saying the shorter pieces of the spring are now on the bottom? That is not correct. The spring is stacked the way it is in order to function properly. Moving them around can change the rate and effectiveness of the spring.
08-18-2016, 09:42 AM
#9
Safety Car
Thread Starter
08-18-2016, 09:50 AM
#10
Drifting
Just to satisfy our curiosity, what length bolts are in the suspension now? Stock? Or have you already put 8" bolts in and need to get more?
Also, is it a stock or aftermarket composite spring?
A picture of the car in profile would be helpful so we can see where you are and visualize where you'd like to be...
Also, is it a stock or aftermarket composite spring?
A picture of the car in profile would be helpful so we can see where you are and visualize where you'd like to be...
08-18-2016, 12:31 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
08-18-2016, 12:56 PM
#12
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Just to satisfy our curiosity, what length bolts are in the suspension now? Stock? Or have you already put 8" bolts in and need to get more?
Also, is it a stock or aftermarket composite spring?
A picture of the car in profile would be helpful so we can see where you are and visualize where you'd like to be...
Also, is it a stock or aftermarket composite spring?
A picture of the car in profile would be helpful so we can see where you are and visualize where you'd like to be...
stock spring
08-18-2016, 12:58 PM
#13
Safety Car
Thread Starter
i just want 1 more "free" inch
when the car is unloaded in a bullit/Steve McQueen chase, do your discs clatter?
the compliance in that area is prolly not needed right?
Last edited by slickfx3; 08-18-2016 at 01:00 PM.
08-18-2016, 02:56 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
I used aluminum so that there was no steel-on-steel contact. I don't notice any clattering, but I can't hear much over my exhaust. I removed the cushions specifically to eliminate the compliance rather than for lowering purposes.
The following users liked this post:
The13Bats (08-19-2016)
08-18-2016, 07:09 PM
#15
Race Director
You 'lost' me on this reply. I do not know that you meant by 4" rear and 2'' front
I have seen the photo of your car.
When I do a quick measurement on the Corvettes that come in from time to time with height issues. I take the tape measure and but it on the ground and run it up to the underside of the lip of the fender and quarter at the very top ( 12 o'clock position) and that is where I see if the rear is 1 inch above the front or not.
DUB
I have seen the photo of your car.
When I do a quick measurement on the Corvettes that come in from time to time with height issues. I take the tape measure and but it on the ground and run it up to the underside of the lip of the fender and quarter at the very top ( 12 o'clock position) and that is where I see if the rear is 1 inch above the front or not.
DUB
08-18-2016, 07:37 PM
#17
Race Director
I can understand if you are referring to galvanic action....but that would take a while...depending on salt exposure and could be easily changed if the process began.
I myself would not use aluminum in this area....but that is just me.
DUB
08-18-2016, 07:47 PM
#18
Safety Car
Thread Starter
You 'lost' me on this reply. I do not know that you meant by 4" rear and 2'' front
I have seen the photo of your car.
When I do a quick measurement on the Corvettes that come in from time to time with height issues. I take the tape measure and but it on the ground and run it up to the underside of the lip of the fender and quarter at the very top ( 12 o'clock position) and that is where I see if the rear is 1 inch above the front or not.
DUB
I have seen the photo of your car.
When I do a quick measurement on the Corvettes that come in from time to time with height issues. I take the tape measure and but it on the ground and run it up to the underside of the lip of the fender and quarter at the very top ( 12 o'clock position) and that is where I see if the rear is 1 inch above the front or not.
DUB
by taking the top center spring spacer and putting it on the bottom, i dropped it 3/8 of and inch, i would like another 3/4 to 1 inch
08-18-2016, 09:25 PM
#19
Drifting
They actually are not...there is a piece of metal that garnishes the surface...so the aluminum actually does not touch the composite.
I can understand if you are referring to galvanic action....but that would take a while...depending on salt exposure and could be easily changed if the process began.
I myself would not use aluminum in this area....but that is just me.
DUB
I can understand if you are referring to galvanic action....but that would take a while...depending on salt exposure and could be easily changed if the process began.
I myself would not use aluminum in this area....but that is just me.
DUB
Last edited by fishslayer143; 08-18-2016 at 09:28 PM.
08-18-2016, 09:27 PM
#20
Drifting
I apologize if this is too direct, but why are we even talking about this?
Go to Fastenal and get two 1/2" x 8" long Grade 8 shoulder bolts with nylock nuts. If you feel like you must, drill the end of the bolt for a cotterpin. I've been running nylock nuts for 4 years now and they haven't budged.
If the 8" bolts don't get you to where you want to be, then we can figure out how to get another little bit out of the suspension.
Go to Fastenal and get two 1/2" x 8" long Grade 8 shoulder bolts with nylock nuts. If you feel like you must, drill the end of the bolt for a cotterpin. I've been running nylock nuts for 4 years now and they haven't budged.
If the 8" bolts don't get you to where you want to be, then we can figure out how to get another little bit out of the suspension.