why can't i remove or cut the busings to lower the rear a little?
#41
Race Director
I have worked on kit cars ad fiberglass rod bodies that were off like 2" left to right yet from 15 feet away the eye couldn't see it, some Avengers from fiberfab are so bad on the rear that one has to just place the tail lights where they "look" right as if you place them measured they will look like marty feildman,
68-82 corvettes to me look okay with a hair of rake but jacked up they look ridiculous.
I was complementing a flared 69 at old town cruise once and the owner was kind of laughing at me, he said come-mer,
Takes me around back, the flares from the rear didn't match , at all, he said cars been like this 20 some odd years and counting....
68-82 corvettes to me look okay with a hair of rake but jacked up they look ridiculous.
I was complementing a flared 69 at old town cruise once and the owner was kind of laughing at me, he said come-mer,
Takes me around back, the flares from the rear didn't match , at all, he said cars been like this 20 some odd years and counting....
All well and good and even though your experience is interesting...it does not apply to the Corvette in POST#22. Kit cars and custom flares are what they are. And so much depends on who is build it and who they are getting the body from and who is installing it,etc. Because having 2 inch difference...to me...it might as well be a mile.
I know I could pick that up...because I can see things that are a lot closer than that.
DUB
#43
Race Director
If you question this or don't believe me??? this is EASY to prove,. Go out to your car....crank it up. Put your foot on the brake....put it in drive WHILE holding the brake pedal down....then press on the gas and see what happens when you do this. THE REAR SQUATS DOWN.
Call Vette Brakes and Products...who deals in Corvette suspensions and ASK them.. and see what they say.
DUB
#44
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Do as you wish...but you do not want all four corners to be the same....while the car is sittign still. As mentioned before...the rear needs to be higher due to weight transfer when you leave a stop light. The rear squats and the car levels out.
If you question this or don't believe me??? this is EASY to prove,. Go out to your car....crank it up. Put your foot on the brake....put it in drive WHILE holding the brake pedal down....then press on the gas and see what happens when you do this. THE REAR SQUATS DOWN.
Call Vette Brakes and Products...who deals in Corvette suspensions and ASK them.. and see what they say.
DUB
If you question this or don't believe me??? this is EASY to prove,. Go out to your car....crank it up. Put your foot on the brake....put it in drive WHILE holding the brake pedal down....then press on the gas and see what happens when you do this. THE REAR SQUATS DOWN.
Call Vette Brakes and Products...who deals in Corvette suspensions and ASK them.. and see what they say.
DUB
#45
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2003
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dub, go take a gander at pic 32 his car has a lot of air over the rear tire....
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...justable-63-82
https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...justable-63-82
#46
Drifting
A) The *** end is sitting high.
B) He can't remove a spring because he has a composite mono-leaf. He said that very early in the thread.
C) VB&P Part Number 32306 and 1 beer's worth of installation time would result in the end of this thread reading "WOW...she sits real pretty now!!!" accompanied by a picture of said car with the rear end sitting down over the tires.
Part Number 32306: 8" Spring Bolts and Poly Cushion Kit
A steal at $29.99. If it makes you feel better, you can even take the poly bushings to the belt sander and squeak another 1/4" out of the stuff if that is what she needs.
We could start a GoFundMe and if everyone in this thread contributes $0.28, we could be done in the next 6 months.
B) He can't remove a spring because he has a composite mono-leaf. He said that very early in the thread.
C) VB&P Part Number 32306 and 1 beer's worth of installation time would result in the end of this thread reading "WOW...she sits real pretty now!!!" accompanied by a picture of said car with the rear end sitting down over the tires.
Part Number 32306: 8" Spring Bolts and Poly Cushion Kit
A steal at $29.99. If it makes you feel better, you can even take the poly bushings to the belt sander and squeak another 1/4" out of the stuff if that is what she needs.
We could start a GoFundMe and if everyone in this thread contributes $0.28, we could be done in the next 6 months.
Last edited by keithinspace; 08-22-2016 at 08:46 AM.
#47
Race Director
#48
Race Director
Then wanting to drop it another inch....which is why I responded how I did...due to something must have changed.
DUB
#49
Race Director
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I SAW that photo...and you may be confused in my response because the last sentence that appears in POST 34 ....where he achieved what he was looking for with 1/2 inch (.5 inch) difference...or something to that effect.
Then wanting to drop it another inch....which is why I responded how I did...due to something must have changed.
DUB
Then wanting to drop it another inch....which is why I responded how I did...due to something must have changed.
DUB
#50
Racer
Man that's a badass looking vette from that angle! Are those gills stock on that year car? And I love the wheels ...and are those factory door mirrors?
And I haven't seen anyone mention that you don't want the car low enough to end up with the axles higher than parallel at the outside (wheel) ends. This would cause excessive angle under acceleration and adversely affect toe geometry. Correct?
And I haven't seen anyone mention that you don't want the car low enough to end up with the axles higher than parallel at the outside (wheel) ends. This would cause excessive angle under acceleration and adversely affect toe geometry. Correct?
Last edited by slofut; 08-22-2016 at 09:50 PM.
#51
Race Director
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Man that's a badass looking vette from that angle! Are those gills stock on that year car? And I love the wheels ...and are those factory door mirrors?
And I haven't seen anyone mention that you don't want the car low enough to end up with the axles higher than parallel at the outside (wheel) ends. This would cause excessive angle under acceleration and adversely affect toe geometry. Correct?
And I haven't seen anyone mention that you don't want the car low enough to end up with the axles higher than parallel at the outside (wheel) ends. This would cause excessive angle under acceleration and adversely affect toe geometry. Correct?
#52
Racer
Yep, read them. I wasn't implying that his car was too low or anything. More just a heads up so that if he got it where he wanted it and the axles were "v'd", maybe something else was wonky.
#53
Race Director
Where to send the money....who knows.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 08-23-2016 at 06:47 PM.
#54
Race Director
He just put in strut rods....and the camber could be off a bit. It is hard to tell by the photo....but I do know some guys who run it that way due to the curvy roads in my area and the mountain roads that they like to run their car on.
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slofut (08-24-2016)
#55
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2003
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You used the 'confused' icon in your reply...repeat...YOU used that icon...not me....so that is why I replied that way. I used that word. 'confused'...because you 'said' that you were 'confused' with that icon. I see nothing wrong with that...unless I am wrong again with you.
Where to send the money....who knows.
DUB
Where to send the money....who knows.
DUB
#56
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Man that's a badass looking vette from that angle! Are those gills stock on that year car? And I love the wheels ...and are those factory door mirrors?
And I haven't seen anyone mention that you don't want the car low enough to end up with the axles higher than parallel at the outside (wheel) ends. This would cause excessive angle under acceleration and adversely affect toe geometry. Correct?
And I haven't seen anyone mention that you don't want the car low enough to end up with the axles higher than parallel at the outside (wheel) ends. This would cause excessive angle under acceleration and adversely affect toe geometry. Correct?
no don't want it too low just a touch more
#57
Melting Slicks
You have 245/60/15's on your Vette......which IMO are not the correct size or look for the C3. Your tire is 26.6" overall diameter. If you went with one of the optional tire sizes for the 82, one which was 255/60/15, your overall diameter would be 27.1". A difference of the .5" from what you have and what you are looking for....
I have had a number of C3's over the years, and still have my 82 and the 74 which is in the process of getting back together. I had a 75 Vert at one time and put 245's on there and what a big mistake, it did not look good.
On the 74, I am going with the 225/70/15 which has an overall diameter of 27.4" which in your case would give you .8" more height then what you already have, which in turn would close the gap from the top of your tire to the bottom center of your quarter-panel.
So if you go with the 27.1" diameter tire (255's) and the 8" adjustable bolts as others have mentioned, that would be a good idea. Then you can slightly tweak the final ride height to your liking. And don't do anything funky to the suspension just to close your gap. I don't think it would be a wise thing to do on the street. Changing suspension geometry in the way you are seeking to do for the street is only asking for trouble.....again.....JMO
Tom
An added thought.....just don't understand why C3 owners use the 245's on their Vettes......again, they just look too small.....
Last edited by 74 LS4-454; 08-24-2016 at 09:44 AM.
#58
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Ok, here is my opinion.......
You have 245/60/15's on your Vette......which IMO are not the correct size or look for the C3. Your tire is 26.6" overall diameter. If you went with one of the optional tire sizes for the 82, one which was 255/60/15, your overall diameter would be 27.1". A difference of the .5" from what you have and what you are looking for....
I have had a number of C3's over the years, and still have my 82 and the 74 which is in the process of getting back together. I had a 75 Vert at one time and put 245's on there and what a big mistake, it did not look good.
On the 74, I am going with the 225/70/15 which has an overall diameter of 27.4" which in your case would give you .8" more height then what you already have, which in turn would close the gap from the top of your tire to the bottom center of your quarter-panel.
So if you go with the 27.1" diameter tire (255's) and the 8" adjustable bolts as others have mentioned, that would be a good idea. Then you can slightly tweak the final ride height to your liking. And don't do anything funky to the suspension just to close your gap. I don't think it would be a wise thing to do on the street. Changing suspension geometry in the way you are seeking to do for the street is only asking for trouble.....again.....JMO
Tom
An added thought.....just don't understand why C3 owners use the 245's on their Vettes......again, they just look too small.....
You have 245/60/15's on your Vette......which IMO are not the correct size or look for the C3. Your tire is 26.6" overall diameter. If you went with one of the optional tire sizes for the 82, one which was 255/60/15, your overall diameter would be 27.1". A difference of the .5" from what you have and what you are looking for....
I have had a number of C3's over the years, and still have my 82 and the 74 which is in the process of getting back together. I had a 75 Vert at one time and put 245's on there and what a big mistake, it did not look good.
On the 74, I am going with the 225/70/15 which has an overall diameter of 27.4" which in your case would give you .8" more height then what you already have, which in turn would close the gap from the top of your tire to the bottom center of your quarter-panel.
So if you go with the 27.1" diameter tire (255's) and the 8" adjustable bolts as others have mentioned, that would be a good idea. Then you can slightly tweak the final ride height to your liking. And don't do anything funky to the suspension just to close your gap. I don't think it would be a wise thing to do on the street. Changing suspension geometry in the way you are seeking to do for the street is only asking for trouble.....again.....JMO
Tom
An added thought.....just don't understand why C3 owners use the 245's on their Vettes......again, they just look too small.....
Last edited by slickfx3; 08-24-2016 at 11:11 AM.
#59
I went with longer bolts to lower the rear. One concern is the bolts end up so close to the ground, that if I got a flat tire, very real chance of the bolt hitting the road. The bolts were for a C-4. It has been a while, don't recall if they were 8". I pushed it as far as I dared, and then cut an inch off the bolt end. Still wish the rear was a bit lower. I have been wondering if installing QA-1 adjustable shocks in the rear would be a good way to adjust the rear ride height.
#60
Drifting
I've tried stock (6.5", I think), 8", and 10".
Stock was too short.
10" did have that awful condition of potentially grinding on the ground should the tire go down as Mr. Franks73 points out. Also, it ended up in an odd spot on the spring where it seemed more "boundy" than when a "tighter" bolt is used. Finally, the universals were pointed upward instead of being flat. Not a biggie, but just a couple too many reasons to remove the overly-long bolts.
8" are my "Goldilocks" bolts. I have the Nylock nuts a couple of threads from the end and they have worked perfectly for several years now. Car sits right and rides right. Zero complaints.
My sidepipes do have a very slight upward angle to them. I have frame issues and am not sure exactly what to attribute the sidepipe slope to. As part of my frame replacement, I will address the exact positioning of the sidepipes to ensure they are perfect when reassembled. That may involve welding some new 'tangs' onto the pipes to allow me to make a slight adjustment at the rear of the sidetube.
A picture I took last night and a video I took before replacing my strut bars...
Stock was too short.
10" did have that awful condition of potentially grinding on the ground should the tire go down as Mr. Franks73 points out. Also, it ended up in an odd spot on the spring where it seemed more "boundy" than when a "tighter" bolt is used. Finally, the universals were pointed upward instead of being flat. Not a biggie, but just a couple too many reasons to remove the overly-long bolts.
8" are my "Goldilocks" bolts. I have the Nylock nuts a couple of threads from the end and they have worked perfectly for several years now. Car sits right and rides right. Zero complaints.
My sidepipes do have a very slight upward angle to them. I have frame issues and am not sure exactly what to attribute the sidepipe slope to. As part of my frame replacement, I will address the exact positioning of the sidepipes to ensure they are perfect when reassembled. That may involve welding some new 'tangs' onto the pipes to allow me to make a slight adjustment at the rear of the sidetube.
A picture I took last night and a video I took before replacing my strut bars...
Last edited by keithinspace; 08-24-2016 at 04:17 PM.