dyanisis2

I've been going through all the threads I can find regarding aftermarket Autometer gauges for my 1980 corvette. Everything I finding just shows everyone wiring up the gauges, but there is no mention of keeping the Low Fuel or Generator lights. Does everyone just discard the low fuel/gen lights? If not, how do you install them without the original metal housing that the stock gauges were in?

Second, I thought we needed the gen light to be functional for the alternator/charging system to work correctly. Is this not the case?

Any help would be appreciated. Pictures would be great. Thanks

SH-60B

That's what I experienced, no charging when that light was non functioning. I'm interested to see what others have to say.

dyanisis2

Just checking back. Still trying to figure out if I can wire the gauges without the fuel/gen light, or if they are required? Anyone.....Bueller.....

jetmech

I found an extra rear metal piece and cut it out to clear the gauges. Then I just bought some aftermarket pig tails for the bulbs and then soldered them into the harness. This let me have the function of the original lights in the center stack.
Hope this helps.

dyanisis2

Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to visualize what you did. Did you keep using the original printed circuit board then, or only the metal plate?

lionelhutz

You need the generator light or a resistor to make it charge. You can just use a 75 ohm, 5 watt resistor to replace the light.

You could just eliminate the low fuel light.

jetmech

BBBI did not use the stock circuit board. I took a schematic and figured out what wires in the stock harness went where and then just soldered into the harness and made my own harness for the idiot lights and the gauges. To make room for the gauges you cannot use the circuit board.
This is not the best shot of the gauges but here it is.

I used the angle rings to angle the center stack toward the driver. The gauges are not recessed at all.

vannmike

I did this as well and trimmed the original gauge cluster. But I'm also confused about the gen light wire. And I think i lost the small red tab that says gen light as well. I'm thinking of going the resistor route. So you gen light is functioning with the autometers?

jetmech

Yes. So does the seat belt and in my case the check engine light.

dyanisis2

Thanks for the info, your car looks great. I've been noticing a lot of people when they're talking about wiring up the gauges, many say they soldered into the original harness. I'm guessing you didn't cut the original plug off. Did you just strip some insulation off of each wire, wrap the new wire into it, and then solder them together?

Wouldn't it be easier to just use the plastic line splicers that just snap onto the original wire? Why go the soldering route?

SH-60B

Don't use those line splicers, they are just begging to fail. I would just cut off the original plug and splice in a plug that mates to the gage. I use crimp splices with an insulating sleeve that shrinks and melts internally for a water proof seal, or you can use heat shrink tubing as an insulator, but it's not waterproof.

I know your dash doesn't have to be waterproof, but even the moisture in the air can eventually corrode wire. You can solder if you want, but even solder can corrode and should be protected from the environment, and obviously insulated at a minimum. I know go a little overboard, but it's because I build wire harnesses for a living.

jetmech

I did not cut the plug off. I used the snap connectors. SH-60B is right about this not being the best way but it has worked well for me for quite a long time. I did this thinking I may want to go back with the stock gauge setup. That will never happen though. So if I was going to do this project again the crimp and shrink tubing is a better way. Make sure you post some pics when you finish your project!