Buying 2000 Nassau Blue Coupe with 4k miles... what do I do first?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Buying 2000 Nassau Blue Coupe with 4k miles... what do I do first?
Hi folks - it's been a few years since I've owned a Corvette, so I'm happy to again be part of the group. Previously I've had mainly C4's, all Z51 Stick cars, so this C5 is a big change for me. I just picked up a very nice 2000 Nassau Blue Auto Coupe from the original 75yr old owner - it has only 4,400 miles. Besides going thru all the fluids, should I be concerned about the tires? The car has never seen rain and has always been parked on carpet in a climate controlled garage - thanks guys!
#2
Burning Brakes
Definitely tires,
Driving from Missouri to Indiana on 7k mile 17 year old run flats was terrifying, and they were not dry looking in the least.
Everything rubber should be inspected at the very least ie hoses, belts, plug wires, brake lines, etc.
Most of those things are very cheap to replace, so cheap that I do not think its worth risking the break down just because the miles are low.
Another thing I always forget about is the LMC5 everyone talks about, I just received mine and will have it on the car before it leaves the garage again.
If you are not aware the C5 has a tendency to lock the steering column and disable the car, necessitating a trip to a dealer to have it fixed, the LMC5 disables this.
Here is a link to the maintenance parts I just bought, some things like the tensioners are probably overkill but I don't trust 20 year old parts for the most part.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1593827653
Driving from Missouri to Indiana on 7k mile 17 year old run flats was terrifying, and they were not dry looking in the least.
Everything rubber should be inspected at the very least ie hoses, belts, plug wires, brake lines, etc.
Most of those things are very cheap to replace, so cheap that I do not think its worth risking the break down just because the miles are low.
Another thing I always forget about is the LMC5 everyone talks about, I just received mine and will have it on the car before it leaves the garage again.
If you are not aware the C5 has a tendency to lock the steering column and disable the car, necessitating a trip to a dealer to have it fixed, the LMC5 disables this.
Here is a link to the maintenance parts I just bought, some things like the tensioners are probably overkill but I don't trust 20 year old parts for the most part.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1593827653
Last edited by work_truck; 01-18-2017 at 07:42 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Dave C (01-18-2017)
#3
Melting Slicks
I go with the member who posted above. Extremely low miles are great but there is a downside. If it were me I would book it into a good shop for a thorough refresh. That gives you a up to date baseline to begin taking care of your new old baby. Congratulations on your buy! Take care!
The following users liked this post:
Dave C (01-18-2017)
#4
Drifting
Congrats on the NB car from a '98 NB owner!
Mine has 12 year old tires and look as good as the day they were put on but that being said I will be putting a new set of non-run flat Michelin's on this year soon! Most my driving is short and if on the freeway only 40-50 miles at best so not much time to heat up and get hot were they might come apart if checked inside? I am replacing them as they are feeling pretty flat spotted from sitting too much, cam't wait for the better ride as well. Have fun with that new C5.
Mine has 12 year old tires and look as good as the day they were put on but that being said I will be putting a new set of non-run flat Michelin's on this year soon! Most my driving is short and if on the freeway only 40-50 miles at best so not much time to heat up and get hot were they might come apart if checked inside? I am replacing them as they are feeling pretty flat spotted from sitting too much, cam't wait for the better ride as well. Have fun with that new C5.
The following users liked this post:
Dave C (01-18-2017)
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Bonita Springs, Florida
Posts: 22,011
Received 3,074 Likes
on
2,045 Posts
Install a LMC5 or Column Lock Bypass. Do not let the dealer perform the column lock recall, they will only cause more problems. Install or have someone install the LMC5 or a Column Lock Bypass.
I have installed both on different cars and it was not difficult. Read and follow the instructions. Here are some helpful videos:
http://complianceparts.com/lmc5install.html
You can do many of the maintenance items yourself. This is the best DIY info website for many maintenance items: http://www.toquez06.com/z06index.html
and http://www.97vette.com/
Here are the lifting & jacking locations:
Always use jacking pucks when lifting from the frame contact hoist locations if you don't have frame rail protection.
Jacking Pucks: https://www.corvettepartsandaccessor...-jacking-pucks
Lifting without pucks. :
http://www.z06vette.com/diy_lift.php
I use the following 2 low profile jacks; one Larin 2-ton aluminum jack and one Harbor Freight 1.5-ton aluminum jack.
I installed frame rails with built in pads from Elite Engineering:
http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/c...nd-mtg-screws/
For oil changes I use a set of 57" 2-piece Race Ramps and drive the front wheels up on them while driving the rear wheels onto Trax Jax when I perform oil changes.
Then I lift the rear of the car up under the rear cradle with a low profile jack supporting and protecting the cradle with a 4x8 piece of wood so the weight is dispersed evenly across and there is no metal to metal contact. You only need to raise the rear of the car slightly higher than the front to completely drain out the oil. I make sure to chock the rear of the front tires on the ramps.
You can use one of these under the cradle in place of wood: http://www.harborfreight.com/steel-f...eam-60762.html
Here are some links to oil changes:
http://www.97vette.com/howto/carlift/index.html
http://www.z06vette.com/diy_lift.php
http://www.toquez06.com/oil.html
I suggest changing the dexcool right away if you suspect that it is original. If the old dexcool is still clear and the color looks and smells like new then it has probably been changed before and only in this case won't necessarily need to be flushed. Be careful turning the fragile petcock to drain the coolant. If it's original it may not be able to flow out immediately since it may have gunked up the petcock so don't get too rough with it or you will snap it and need to purchase a new petcock. Once changed you should be good for 3 years.
Change the brake fluid, especially if it appears dark in the reservoir. You should change the clutch fluid if it appears dark in the reservoir, however you will have to search the Ranger method. Find a good Corvette shop if you don't want to bother with these items. I have used the Ranger method but in the end needed to replace my clutch master cylinder.
Air filter change is simple on a stock intake, just unsnap the 2 handles at each end, lift and carefully remove and install the new filter.
If the belts are original I suggest replacing them. Make sure to get the correct part number belt for your car.
You should check the sway bar end links and bushings. If they are the original plastic end links, they are probably shot and should be replaced with the oem metal end links.
Make sure that the drainage udders are free of debris. Here is a good thread with plenty of links: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...er-udders.html
Your plugs are probably fine but you may want to replace the wires. I replaced my plugs and wires with my header install and it was a breeze but it will be a PITA on a stock car with exhaust manifolds in place. My wires were brittle and 3 broke apart even though the car ran excellent before the change. Your car will run great even though the wires are old.
Replacing rear diff fluid: http://www.toquez06.com/diff.html
Manual trans fluid change: http://www.toquez06.com/tranny.html
Congrats on a great find and welcome.
I have installed both on different cars and it was not difficult. Read and follow the instructions. Here are some helpful videos:
http://complianceparts.com/lmc5install.html
You can do many of the maintenance items yourself. This is the best DIY info website for many maintenance items: http://www.toquez06.com/z06index.html
and http://www.97vette.com/
Here are the lifting & jacking locations:
Always use jacking pucks when lifting from the frame contact hoist locations if you don't have frame rail protection.
Jacking Pucks: https://www.corvettepartsandaccessor...-jacking-pucks
Lifting without pucks. :
http://www.z06vette.com/diy_lift.php
I use the following 2 low profile jacks; one Larin 2-ton aluminum jack and one Harbor Freight 1.5-ton aluminum jack.
I installed frame rails with built in pads from Elite Engineering:
http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/c...nd-mtg-screws/
For oil changes I use a set of 57" 2-piece Race Ramps and drive the front wheels up on them while driving the rear wheels onto Trax Jax when I perform oil changes.
Then I lift the rear of the car up under the rear cradle with a low profile jack supporting and protecting the cradle with a 4x8 piece of wood so the weight is dispersed evenly across and there is no metal to metal contact. You only need to raise the rear of the car slightly higher than the front to completely drain out the oil. I make sure to chock the rear of the front tires on the ramps.
You can use one of these under the cradle in place of wood: http://www.harborfreight.com/steel-f...eam-60762.html
Here are some links to oil changes:
http://www.97vette.com/howto/carlift/index.html
http://www.z06vette.com/diy_lift.php
http://www.toquez06.com/oil.html
I suggest changing the dexcool right away if you suspect that it is original. If the old dexcool is still clear and the color looks and smells like new then it has probably been changed before and only in this case won't necessarily need to be flushed. Be careful turning the fragile petcock to drain the coolant. If it's original it may not be able to flow out immediately since it may have gunked up the petcock so don't get too rough with it or you will snap it and need to purchase a new petcock. Once changed you should be good for 3 years.
Change the brake fluid, especially if it appears dark in the reservoir. You should change the clutch fluid if it appears dark in the reservoir, however you will have to search the Ranger method. Find a good Corvette shop if you don't want to bother with these items. I have used the Ranger method but in the end needed to replace my clutch master cylinder.
Air filter change is simple on a stock intake, just unsnap the 2 handles at each end, lift and carefully remove and install the new filter.
If the belts are original I suggest replacing them. Make sure to get the correct part number belt for your car.
You should check the sway bar end links and bushings. If they are the original plastic end links, they are probably shot and should be replaced with the oem metal end links.
Make sure that the drainage udders are free of debris. Here is a good thread with plenty of links: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...er-udders.html
Your plugs are probably fine but you may want to replace the wires. I replaced my plugs and wires with my header install and it was a breeze but it will be a PITA on a stock car with exhaust manifolds in place. My wires were brittle and 3 broke apart even though the car ran excellent before the change. Your car will run great even though the wires are old.
Replacing rear diff fluid: http://www.toquez06.com/diff.html
Manual trans fluid change: http://www.toquez06.com/tranny.html
Congrats on a great find and welcome.
The following 2 users liked this post by Mike98SilVert:
Dave C (01-20-2017),
Mr31FlavorsVette (01-18-2017)
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
Work_Truck - I just finished your ENTIRE thread from your car's pickup and death-ride home, to your most recent updates. THANKS YOU VERY MUCH FOR SHARING THAT WRITE UP. I will follow suit, starting with the LMC5 module. My plan is to keep this car as close to original as possible, with the exception of the typical maintenance items and some minor enhancements (wheels, exhaust, etc.) - I also have an Audi A8L, a Chevy Tahoe, and a Dodge Challenger R/T (31k miles, 6-spd, soon to be for sale), so the miles won't be building up too badly I hope!
Here are a couple pics of the C5 - it also has the F45 suspension which I am not a fan of, but it is what it is.
Here are a couple pics of the C5 - it also has the F45 suspension which I am not a fan of, but it is what it is.
The following users liked this post:
IMXCITD (03-14-2017)
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
Wheel wells?
Last edited by Dave C; 01-18-2017 at 11:41 AM.
#10
Administrator
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
Posts: 343,528
Received 19,467 Likes
on
14,063 Posts
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
work_truck has pretty much nailed the things to do first. Sounds like you have found a really nice '00 and hope you get many miles of driving pleasure from the car.
The following users liked this post:
Dave C (01-18-2017)
#12
Safety Car
Step 1: replace literally everything rubber that you can.
Step 2: flush all fluids.
Step 3: put an lmc5 module on it
Step 4: drive a minimum of 20k miles this year alone.
4,000 miles is too low. It's unethical.
Step 2: flush all fluids.
Step 3: put an lmc5 module on it
Step 4: drive a minimum of 20k miles this year alone.
4,000 miles is too low. It's unethical.
The following users liked this post:
Roddy13 (01-18-2017)
#13
Drive it. That's what you do first! Drive it. (check and replace tires as need first though).
The following users liked this post:
SaxyVette (01-21-2017)
#15
Banned Scam/Spammer
Member Since: May 2007
Location: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
Posts: 15,685
Received 1,319 Likes
on
788 Posts
Where the wheels/tires kick rocks/grit right at the painted surfaces at the outer edge of the wheels/tires. Don't forget the front bumper, hood, and mirrors.
Do a google search. Nice paint can have 3m plastic applied and in 40k miles peeled off and the common wear areas of a c5 look great just like the unabused portions of the paint. Various manufacturers of the clear laminate, in fact, 3m which is a common name turns yellow in time, other are better.
Cleartastic is Mickey Mouse. I'm talking about professionally applied clear film that stays for years.
Do a google search. Nice paint can have 3m plastic applied and in 40k miles peeled off and the common wear areas of a c5 look great just like the unabused portions of the paint. Various manufacturers of the clear laminate, in fact, 3m which is a common name turns yellow in time, other are better.
Cleartastic is Mickey Mouse. I'm talking about professionally applied clear film that stays for years.
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
My wife just called me - said that the car just got delivered and is sitting in the garage, think I'll skip out of work a little early tonight! Thanks for all the well wishes and the tech tips - you guys rule!
The following users liked this post:
Dave C (01-21-2017)
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
Pics from my first day possessing this car, I bought this sight unseen on a recommendation of a friend from the original owner (75 yrs old), it's showing 4,524 miles and has allegedly never seen a drop of rain.
Please excuse the clutter in my garage - I've been doing some upgrades to my Challenger and have not had a minute to clean it up. This Corvette purchase was not a planned one, I had intended to wait until the Spring when I could sell the Challenger, re-do the garage space, then look for a C5 - but we plan and God laughs...(in this case it worked in my favor!) I'm not a fan of the console cover so I'll need to find an OEM lid.
My first view of my C5 as I pulled in the driveway, my poor Challenger has been delegated to the great and COLD outdoors.
Please excuse the clutter in my garage - I've been doing some upgrades to my Challenger and have not had a minute to clean it up. This Corvette purchase was not a planned one, I had intended to wait until the Spring when I could sell the Challenger, re-do the garage space, then look for a C5 - but we plan and God laughs...(in this case it worked in my favor!) I'm not a fan of the console cover so I'll need to find an OEM lid.
My first view of my C5 as I pulled in the driveway, my poor Challenger has been delegated to the great and COLD outdoors.
Last edited by Dave C; 01-21-2017 at 08:41 AM.
The following users liked this post:
IMXCITD (03-14-2017)
#20
Drifting
Member Since: Nov 2011
Location: Summerville South Carolina
Posts: 1,401
Received 138 Likes
on
81 Posts
I agree.
Dave
The following users liked this post:
Dave C (01-29-2017)