I just finished installing an AVIC-N1 into my C5. It's awsome! I want to thank DeeGee for guiding me through the installation. His writeup and personal tips saved me a lot of time. I also want to thank EatRice for his technical assistance. The problem that I had at first power up, I never would have guessed the solution. And last, but not least, I want to thank VrumVrum for the custom mounting bracket and face plate, they look fantastic. Speaking of which, I was planning on posting some pictures, but I'm having technical difficulties with my digital camera. I will post pictures when I get this sorted out. Again, DeeGee, EatRice, and VrumVrum, thanks so much.

 

You are welcome. I hope you enjoy the navigation as much as I do.

 

Where can I find this write up?

 

Just bought a n2...I could really use that write up? Thanks in advance.

 

I thought DeeGee was going to post his writeup, but I can't find it. So, I'll try to talk you through the install. First, review the factory stereo removal writeup in the C5 Tech Tips. Also go to vetteessentials.com and review their writeup for replacing the shift boot and shift **** (good writeup and pictures giving step by step instructions for removing center trim). I would recommend removing passenger seat, but that's just a matter of preference. After you have removed the factory HU, you're going to need a wiring harness adapter inorder to use the factory speakers with an aftermarket HU. I purchased the Soundgate GMCRV1 (about $100). Next you'll have to match up and solder the wires from the Soundgate adapter to the AVIC power plug. For the most part, the wire colors match, but read the soundgate and AVIC installation instructions carefully. Next you'll have to have a good electrical ground, I ended up running a special ground wire from the engine compartment into the passenger foot well (there may be a better way, you might want to research electrical grounds). I was told NOT to run your electrical grounds to the battery negative terminal. You'll also need to connect the red power lead from the soundgate adapter to the accessory power of the car. I soldered a pin connector to the red power lead and plugged the pin into the backside of the accessory power connector by the ignition switch. There maybe a better way to get accessory power, but this is the direct approach and it works for me. There is also a wire (green I think) that needs to be connected to the parking brake switch. For the AVIC-N1, I ran this wire to ground. For the AVIC-N2, this part of the install maybe different. This pretty much completes the wiring of the HU. Next you'll have to run the communications cable from the HU to the hidden unit. I installed my hidden unit under the passenger seat. I first fabricated a mounting board out of 1/4" plywood and painted it to match my interior. You need to connect a reverse indicator wire to the hidden unit. I just ran this wire (purple in color) to the rear of the car and spliced into the backup lamps wiring. I was able to do this by removing the inboard brake lamp on the passenger side of the car. I also mounted the GPS antenna below the outboard brake lamp on the passenger side, and then ran the antenna wire to the hidden unit. The last and most difficult wire to connect is the vehicle speed sensor wire. This is a pink wire for the AVIC-N1, and needs to go through the fire wall on the passenger side of the car and splices into the PCM at connector 2, pin 50 (which is a green and white striped wire). The PCM is located underneath the battery tray. To gain access to the PCM, jack up the passenger side of the car and remove the PCM access panel. This panel is in the lower rear corner of the wheel well. There are three fasteners underneath the car and six fasteners inside the wheel well. I've yet to get the VSS connection to work, so if the VSS connection is more than you bargained for, I would NOT do it. The accuracy of the AVIC without the VSS connection is within five or six feet (good enough for me).
One thing you'll need is a mounting bracket for the HU. Not sure if I can put in a recommendation for the person that made my mounting bracket, but I will say that I am extemely satisfied with his work and with the final appearance of the installed AVIC-N1. I did post some pictures of the finished install, you may want to search this forum for that posting. I hope this helps. Feel free to ask specific questions. I am sure questions will arise as you get into the install.

 

pretty good installation summary the AVIC-N1 is a cool HU.
i'll offer up some alternative suggestions that i think were easier than they way you chose to do it...

i spliced both constant and switched power to the wires that go to the ignition switch. very simple. there is a third location you can splice in at but it's a bit of a pain to work down there... either the accessory harness or BCM harness, both are in the passenger footwell behind the foot board. the accessory harness is tucked up in the upper left hand corner of the cavity where the BCM and fuse box are. GM put a connector there that has constant power, switched power and ground, with 3 unterminated wires so that you can hook up any accessory you want. for the BCM harness, you can tap into connector C2 (the green one), wire A4 (orange wire, 4th from end).

for ground, there are a few bolts that are good grounds right there in the area around the HU that hold the console structure together. just look around. i soldered the green parking brake wire to the ring terminal of the SG harness ground wires and used one of those bolts.

i didn't use the VSS ( i agree accuracy is just fine without) but if you want to use it, there is a much easier place to tap into than at the PCM under the battery. you can tap into the IP wire harness. i can't remember which wire exactly but it's in the shop manual.

reverse light wire is totally unnecessary also, it realizes soon enough when you've changed direction

 

WilliamCall and cmeflyby...thanks alot.

I really appreciate it.