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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 02:25 PM
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Default Capacitor/Amp questions

It is my opinion that most people view caps as pretty useless. Still true? I will do the "big 3" but am wondering if I should get a cap now. I don't want to add one later I'd rather incorporate it into the fiberglass project now. I will be running the following setup:

JL 1000/1
JL 300/2
JL 10W6V2 - (2)
Focal 165K2P
Still undecided on head unit.

I haven't purchased the 300/2 yet, is this good amp to run the Focals with to keep up with subs? 150 watts to each side?

Any suggestions/comments?

Thanks for the help!
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 03:19 PM
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You have TWO 10W6V2's???? DAMN.

One 12W6V2 will force you out of a fullsized sedan!

I would get a cap. I know there are some here who don't like them, but I do. But not just any cap!!! There is a sweet one made by Aluma-Pro called the CAP.

It is shaped like a small amp.

http://www.alumapro.com/

It's framed... so click on the link reading The C.A.P, on the left part of the screen.
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Cajundude
. . . I don't want to add one later I'd rather incorporate it into the fiberglass project now . . .

Any suggestions/comments? Thanks for the help!
I'm in the same boat, do I get a cap now? What I decided to do is complete all of my fiberglass work and install everything in the car in primer form so I'm sure I haven't missed anything. Then I can watch the car, alternator, headlights, voltage etc. when the system is cranking and if I find I need a capacitor, then I can modify of the fiberglass panels I'm making to accept a capacitor.

Then, after I'm sure I've worked out all of the bugs, I'll pull everything back out and prime, block, prime and paint. Hmmmm? When did I think I'd be done?

Good luck.
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 06:24 PM
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I'd look into an HO alt before a cap, but if you're worried about adding it later, you might as well put one in now...
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 08:11 PM
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If you are going to use one now is the time to do it. I use caps in every major install and have for years. I have yet to find anyone offer a logical response why not to use a cap. Your amp already has caps in it. I do agree with Metal though...you should look into an alternator but ofcourse that can be added later and has no effect on your hatch install.
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bogus
You have TWO 10W6V2's???? DAMN.

One 12W6V2 will force you out of a fullsized sedan!

I would get a cap. I know there are some here who don't like them, but I do. But not just any cap!!! There is a sweet one made by Aluma-Pro called the CAP.

It is shaped like a small amp.

http://www.alumapro.com/

It's framed... so click on the link reading The C.A.P, on the left part of the screen.
I use the Alumapro 15 farad CAP in both my Corvette and my Talon TsiAWD, expensive but worth it. They match your JL amps too
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 11:08 PM
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I used one and I dont have half the stuff you have.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 07:38 AM
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Thanks for all of your responses! I will go ahead and use one now. I don't want to have to rebuild later. I will also do the big 3 as well and eventually look into the alternator.

So, does the cap go between the battery and the distribution block or the distribution block and the amp? Thanks again for your help!
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 07:47 AM
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Between Battery and Distribution block.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Cajundude
So, does the cap go between the battery and the distribution block or the distribution block and the amp? Thanks again for your help!
AFAIK: the closer it is to the amp the better.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 09:57 AM
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Thanks! It will be located within inches of the amp. The power line from the cap to the amp should be less than a foot.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 12:10 PM
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i have 2 1fared caps for a ppi 2600 and a ppi 6600..... jl audio components 6/4/tweet and 2 jl 10w6v2.......

b
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by knewblewkorvette
I use the Alumapro 15 farad CAP in both my Corvette and my Talon TsiAWD, expensive but worth it. They match your JL amps too
Ok, after searching and looking at a ton of different caps I think I have decided on this one but I do have a question for you. It says not to ground with the amps for all the other caps, the Alumapro says you can because it acts like a distro block itself. Did you do it this way?

I already have one ground run to the chassis and would like to keep it that way. The C.A.P. would work great in this instance.

So I would basically have 0AWG from battery running into cap big relay. 0AWG ground from chassis to cap. From CAP, 2 4AWG positives going into a fused distro block and two out from there to amps. Ground from amps directly to C.A.P. Amp turn on leads directly to C.A.P. relay post.

Yes?

Last edited by Cajundude; Aug 17, 2005 at 12:18 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 11:11 AM
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yep, I did but also did not

The CAP has built on power distribution block which save you some $. Unfortunetely, both of the cars I use it in uses 3 amps. I took 0-guage in, one 4-guage to the sub amp and the other 4 guage to a distribution block spliting to the two full range amps.
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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 11:16 AM
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Thanks! I'll probalby do close to the same. 0 AWG in and 2 4s out to distro block and then on to the amps so both amps will be fused.
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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 11:35 AM
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you should have a fuse about 6" from the battery if you have not already planned to do so.
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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by knewblewkorvette
you should have a fuse about 6" from the battery if you have not already planned to do so.
Yep plan on it, but thanks for the heads up as I am sure there will be other things that need to be done that won't.
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