Cajundude

It is my opinion that most people view caps as pretty useless. Still true? I will do the "big 3" but am wondering if I should get a cap now. I don't want to add one later I'd rather incorporate it into the fiberglass project now. I will be running the following setup:

JL 1000/1
JL 300/2
JL 10W6V2 - (2)
Focal 165K2P
Still undecided on head unit.

I haven't purchased the 300/2 yet, is this good amp to run the Focals with to keep up with subs? 150 watts to each side?

Any suggestions/comments?

Thanks for the help!

bogus

You have TWO 10W6V2's???? DAMN.

One 12W6V2 will force you out of a fullsized sedan!

I would get a cap. I know there are some here who don't like them, but I do. But not just any cap!!! There is a sweet one made by Aluma-Pro called the CAP.

It is shaped like a small amp.

http://www.alumapro.com/

It's framed... so click on the link reading The C.A.P, on the left part of the screen.

74-Roadster

I'm in the same boat, do I get a cap now? What I decided to do is complete all of my fiberglass work and install everything in the car in primer form so I'm sure I haven't missed anything. Then I can watch the car, alternator, headlights, voltage etc. when the system is cranking and if I find I need a capacitor, then I can modify of the fiberglass panels I'm making to accept a capacitor.

Then, after I'm sure I've worked out all of the bugs, I'll pull everything back out and prime, block, prime and paint. Hmmmm? When did I think I'd be done?

Good luck.

Metal Wulf

I'd look into an HO alt before a cap, but if you're worried about adding it later, you might as well put one in now...

EatRice

If you are going to use one now is the time to do it. I use caps in every major install and have for years. I have yet to find anyone offer a logical response why not to use a cap. Your amp already has caps in it. I do agree with Metal though...you should look into an alternator but ofcourse that can be added later and has no effect on your hatch install.

knewblewkorvette

I use the Alumapro 15 farad CAP in both my Corvette and my Talon TsiAWD, expensive but worth it. They match your JL amps too

wicked 98z

I used one and I dont have half the stuff you have.

Cajundude

Thanks for all of your responses! I will go ahead and use one now. I don't want to have to rebuild later. I will also do the big 3 as well and eventually look into the alternator.

So, does the cap go between the battery and the distribution block or the distribution block and the amp? Thanks again for your help!

QuikZilver

Between Battery and Distribution block.

Metal Wulf

AFAIK: the closer it is to the amp the better.

Cajundude

Thanks! It will be located within inches of the amp. The power line from the cap to the amp should be less than a foot.

onaqwst

i have 2 1fared caps for a ppi 2600 and a ppi 6600..... jl audio components 6/4/tweet and 2 jl 10w6v2.......

b

Cajundude

Ok, after searching and looking at a ton of different caps I think I have decided on this one but I do have a question for you. It says not to ground with the amps for all the other caps, the Alumapro says you can because it acts like a distro block itself. Did you do it this way?

I already have one ground run to the chassis and would like to keep it that way. The C.A.P. would work great in this instance.

So I would basically have 0AWG from battery running into cap big relay. 0AWG ground from chassis to cap. From CAP, 2 4AWG positives going into a fused distro block and two out from there to amps. Ground from amps directly to C.A.P. Amp turn on leads directly to C.A.P. relay post.

Yes?

knewblewkorvette

yep, I did but also did not

The CAP has built on power distribution block which save you some $. Unfortunetely, both of the cars I use it in uses 3 amps. I took 0-guage in, one 4-guage to the sub amp and the other 4 guage to a distribution block spliting to the two full range amps.

Cajundude

Thanks! I'll probalby do close to the same. 0 AWG in and 2 4s out to distro block and then on to the amps so both amps will be fused.

knewblewkorvette

you should have a fuse about 6" from the battery if you have not already planned to do so.

Cajundude

Yep plan on it, but thanks for the heads up as I am sure there will be other things that need to be done that won't.