1994 C4 - Another "Finished" System
If you have any questions, I'll try to respond as quick as I can. I should have taken pictures during the install, but I just simply wasn't thinking about it while I was working on it. I ordered a faceplate from VRUMVRUM and I can't say enough good things about it. It is worth every penny of the price, and makes the head unit install so much easier. After you cut out the bracket at the back of the dash opening(use a dremel with cutoff wheel), the vrumvrum bracket slides right in and mounts using the existing screws. He even has the holes for the locating studs in his design. Good stuff.
The iPod interface "brain" is mounted under the head unit, behind the faceplate. I ran the cable down the inside of the console beside the cupholders and into the armrest. My iPod sits nicely in front of the tape holders (lol) with the dock connector attached. Maybe I'll try to trim those off someday because, frankly, cassette tapes?
I built the amp rack (platform?) out of 1/2" MDF and carpeted it with a close match ordered through a local stereo shop. All the wiring is hidden and the only visible wires are the remote bass control and the sub speaker wire. All-in-all, I'm happy with the look. I may build a cover for the amps that will hide them completely, but haven't decided yet.
The sub enclosure is definitely temporary. I plan to create a custom enclosure (possibly with a second sub) that will tie in with the rest of the built-in look of the amp rack. At least right now it can be quickly removed for cargo space, if needed.
Here are some pictures that show the key areas.









Here are the components that were used.
Last edited by vettenet; Jan 8, 2006 at 10:54 AM.
The kit is 2 pieces. One is the trim plate that has the CORVETTE logo engraved in it and the second is a bracket that retains the new head unit in the dash. The trimplate is just held in place with some silicone adhesive once the head unit is installed, before the dash trim cover is reinstalled.
The trimming was actually inside the dash itself. The old factory stereo is about an inch shallower than aftermarket units. There is a molded bracket that holds the back of the factory stereo in place that must be removed. Once it is out of the way, you're home free. Again, pics would have been helpful, but if I ever pull the dash apart again (I'm sure it won't be too long...), I'll grab a shot or two.
Hey i'm in the process of changing my front speakers. The enclosure you fabricated looks great. Do u happen to have the dimensions that you used. Any help would be appreciated. System looks great!!
I've started work on the new, more built-in looking sub enclosure. Should take a few weeks of puttering to finish it off. Less if I spend more time in the garage (probably not wise).
To answer snidely1440's questions, the 6.5" round 2-way JL speakers mounted in the custom mounts in the footwell (floor) with the speaker grills installed. Nothing was mounted in the door. The 6x9 MTX speakers mounted in the original factory plastic mounts in the rear. They basically fit okay. There was some difference in the location of the screw points, but with some finesse, and some minor adjustments, i was able to secure the speakers in place. Not a direct match, but close enough to work. Again, the big challenge was making sure that the tweeter portion did not sit proud of the mounting surface. Many speakers do, and it was a bit of a challenge to find a set that didn't. I even thought about hacking the tweeter assembly off of the first set of speakers I bought, but didn't have to once I found the MTX set and confirmed that the cover fit over top of it.
I don't really know how different the BOSE mounts are from the stock mounts, but I started by removing them from the car. I traced out the base on to 1/4" hardboard. The mount points aren't perfectly on plane, but close enough to work. Also, on my car, the left and right mounts were not symmetrical (each side was slightly different).


There was a certain amount of approximation in my fabrication. I cut 1/2" MDF wedges and used the speaker templates to lay out the speaker opening (again in 1/4" hardboard).
I mounted the speaker in the hardboard and tried different wedges to get a balance between speaker clearance and door sill carpet fit (mine sits a little proud in the end). I had to cut clearance in the mounting plate to allow clearance for the magnet. Obviously, this is not a sealed enclosure, but without getting fancy with fiberglass, this is all I could really do.


Last edited by vettenet; Feb 23, 2006 at 01:57 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Randy
First, here are a few pictures of the subwoofer enclosure. It is made out of 1/2" MDF reinforced with fiberglass with all seams sealed from the inside. I carpeted it with a close matching carpet that I ordered through a local stereo store.


Here are some shots of my XM Radio mount. I used an IP-BUS AUX/line-in cable bought off eBay (daisy-chained through my Pioneer IB-100 iPod interface). It all works really well. I used the built-in FM transmitter in my other vehicle, but this is obviously a much better setup for sound quality and for ease-of-use.



To keep the install as clean as possible, I disconnected the vehicle cigarette lighter from the console, and moved it (and the XM power adapter) behind the trim panel. Its always connected, but the XM radio will rarely be left in the vehicle, and it is set to power off after 2 hours anyway.

I was going to use the vent mount, but I am much happier with the final mounting location than the original planned location. The vent mount broke too, so that helped make my decision easier.













