First of all, thanks to all that reply. I've found alot of help and ideas here and appreciate all the learning that's made available to total novices such as myself.

I have a 2001 Z06 and am considering the following:

Pioneer DEH-8600 or DEH-9600 HU

Keeping my stock door woofers, but replacing the twiddlers and the rears with Alpine SPS-080a, SPS-130a respectively.

Adding a amplifier, subthump enclosure and 10" subwoofer.

The local stereo guru suggested another amp to power the door twiddlers/rear speakers. My question: These aftermarket HU"s obviously have equal to or even better power output and I consider my door speaker/rear speaker now to be sufficient power-wise let alone after I replace them with the Alpine's above. Do I need that other amplifier for my door twiddlers/rear 5 1/2's? If so, what kind (specifically) considering I want to add a subwoofer?

And finally, if not, what would be an amplifier of choice to just power the subwoofer?

Sorry if that's confusing, feel free to ask away for clarification...

 

What is your budget? How do you rate the stock system in a 1-10 scenario, 10 being great? Do you plan on doing the install yourself or having it done?

If you are going to replace the HU and twiddlers/rear speakers you would probably be better off replacing the crap door woofers with a nice 2 way component set and a set of coaxials in the rear, and not get another 3.5" speaker. Could get a vrumvrum HU plate and speaker plates, a subthump box and a 10" sub, and a 4 channel amp to run it all. (1/2 to components, 3/4 to sub, HU to power rear speakers) Not a difficult install with the help from vrumvrum, and pretty basic to wire up. I can ALMOST guarantee that you would be far happier replacing the door woofers than you would be leaving them and going through all of the trouble to replace all of the other components. The door woofers really are not very good.

Fej

 

Those are really good questions fej, I'll try and answer them and I appreciate your help..
1. I'd rate my stock speakers (to my ear), a 4 out of 10.
2. Here in Wisconsin, she sits for 4-5 months out of the year, so my budget follows accordingly..1500 bucks or so. With everyones help here, I've accumulated enough links to change my door and rear speakers and maybe change out the HU, but for placing the amp and wiringit up, I'd probably need an installer.
3. I love the face plate and I have seen the door templates. Any idea of the cost of those 2? Also, suggestions on the components for the doors? I could sell the 3.5" Alpines ( I think I paid 40 bucks on e-bay) and keep the 5.5"'s for the rears?
I'm just trying to formulate a plan. My local shop wants me to buy everything through them (obviously) and although I don't mean to just walk in with an armful of stuff and ask them to install it all, I would like to comprimise. For instance, their sub box just by itself they're quoting 600 bucks..I want to be smart about shopping and getting the best price/components but also being cool about doing it..

 

i agree with fej but i wouldn't replace the rear speakers, just leave the stockers in there and possibly not even use them. take the money you save from the bose interface and the rear speakers and put it toward the front components and a 4 chan amp.

 

http://www.subthump.com/vette.htm

Get your box from them...they have several variations. Including the corvette lettering debossing. All for $120 to $200 for the box.

A good sub should run you less than $200, so for $300-$400 you should have the sub taken care of. That leaves $1100 left over for the rest of your system.

Replace all of the speakers, if you are going that direction. Nice component options are available to each his own on the type you want and $$$. Look for it on the forum for everyone's opinion.

I have heard MB quart and focul and diamonds are the best. and the most $$$.

 

If I were building a system on your budget I would look at the following:

Alpine ipod ready HU: $160-400 (option Eclipse 8053 $350)
Front components: Infinity Perfect 6.1 $250-300, (Focal 7" Polykevlar + tweet and crossover from Zalytron $410 shipped)
Rear speakers: stock (none in my opinion)
Subthump box: Lot of bass dual 10" box, or single 10/12" $129-200
Sub: Infinity D VQ $100-150, IDQ $150-225, ARC audio $90-150
Vrumvrum mounting plate and speaker plates cut to your app. $120ish
4 channel amp to run the entire system: $200-450.
Misc expenses: wiring kit, connections etc $100-200

IMO spend decent money on your front components and your 4 channel amp. I would recommend a 75x4 amp. Like Scott said save your money from not replacing your rear speakers and put that money towards your amp/components.

I like to use Ebay as a reference point for pricing. You are going to pay more at an installer but a package price should not net you significantly over ebay prices IMO. You should be paying for their labor not a huge markup on componentry (IMO of course). And IMO take your car to a STEREO SHOP not a best buy or circuit city. Any installer worth a damn leaves a place like that and goes to a real stereo shop.

Fej

 

Yes, I copy that...no Best Buy for my Z06! These guys do alot of installs but also obviously want to make their money selling gear at a big markup.....

Now, would I run the front door components off "one side" of the amp and the sub off the other "side", sorry I don't know the correct terms.
If so, then I wouldn't be powering anything off the HU, right?

Thanks again..

 

whoa..what's this zalytron? never heard of them before. do they just sell individual components and you piece them together?

 

They are mainly a home audio driver retailer. Elliott has a relationship with Focal for their home drivers and often has closeout buys from the factory (read with warranty and serial numbers) on some of their car audio stuff. I paid $100 per 7" polykevlar dvc driver (dual 8 ohm coils) and like $120 for tn 51 tweets. Picked up Focal polyglass 3 way crossovers (that they used in 03/04 ) for $50 a pair. I am considering firing up the ol table and jigsaw for some home units from him.

Check out his site. Some great buys on some very high end drivers. Like the TLR tweets that are highly regarded as some of the best ever for $299 vs $499 on ebay.

As for the amp question, you would run channels 1/2 for the front components, channels 3/4 either bridged or to each sub depending upon what amp you buy, what that amp is stable to (IE 2 or 4 ohms) and how many subs you buy. If you kept your rear speakers they would be run from the rear outs on your headunit to allow you some fading options (IE cut some of the power to them). Like I said earlier rear speakers are for the most part a crutch to improve the sound of low quality components used by most "volume" based speaker manufacturers (IE bose)

Fej

 

Gotcha, I've learned alot today. One finally question (maybe..lol)...

1. Do Vrum Vrum's replacement door brackets come in just one size and type, ie. the larger speaker goes in one "hole" and the smaller in the other...like the stock setup was originally? So the size of the components will be self-explanatory?

2. Sorry I thought of one other one.... If I use the adapter (I've forgotten the name) that would have allowed me to use all my exisiting wiring (and speakers) with an aftermarket HU, can I do just that, use the existing wires from the old BOSE HU with my new one and just swap out the brackets and old speakers, put in the new component speakers and re-connect? Or, are we talking running new wire from the aftermarket HU to the new components in the doors (and maybe the rears?)

Whew!..Thanks again guys..

 

The factory hole in the door is say a 4.5" square at the top sitting on top of approximately an 8.5" round hole for the bottom woofer. Components will drop in as long as they are smaller than 8" in the woofer and require less than a 4" hole for the cutout up top. Since you will run a 2 way system I would mount the tweeter in the top location and the woofer in the factory hole. You should have room to use an angle tweeter mount to improve your imaging a bit.

I would not use the factory wiring for anything other than illumination etc. Your shop will know what to tap for the 12v constant and ignition connections. Running new speaker wires from the amp to the speakers in each door is actually pretty easy, by far the easiest of any of the cars I have put systems in, lots of room to run through the rubber grommet in the door. If you do choose to run rear speakers you will power them from the Headunits power and you COULD use the factory harness for that to make things easier, although it would be another 5-10 minutes to run new wires, the factory stuff is pretty small, think it is 22 gauge. Should run 16 gauge or at least 18 gauge. You don't need to spend $$$ on wires but a bit bigger is worth it IMO. I would also spend some money on RCA's (read $25-50 not $200) for the run from the HU to the amp, good grounds + well run and good quality RCA's = no noise

Fej

 

Excellent. I really appreciate all your input... Let me summarize and tell me if I'm on the right track...
1. Trash the bracket and stock twiddler/self-amped woofer in the doors ..replace with VrumVrum's bracket and component speakers of my choice, these to run off an amplifier.
2. Vrum Vrum's bracket around the HU of my choice, new wiring to everything certainly worth it.
3. Rear speakers plus or minus, I'm thinking since I already have the Alpine 0130a's I might as well keep them, power them off the HU.
4. Subwoofer enclosure and subwoofer to be run off the amplifier as well, a 75x4 with two channels dedicated to the door speakers and one to the sub.
I'll print all this out if I'm accurate, that way I can pick and choose perhaps from the installer some items I'm comfortable with them providing (mostly I would think wiring, harnesses, mounting hardware) and then maybe save a little money by shopping at various places for the components?

Thanks again..

 

1) correct or you can make up some brackets out of 1/2" mdf, use the stock bose bracket as a template and a jigsaw to cut it out

2)yup, wiring a c5 is SOOO simple to do. remember to look in the faq for the correct wire to tap off of for your acc. lead since the one in the stock wire harness will be disabled when you pull the stock h/u out

3)i say nay on the speakers, sell em or return em if you can

4) correct. try to get an amp that will be pushing about 300 watts rms when bridged to the sub and you'll be happy with the power (that is what my current...soon to be old... setup is running and it's almost enough but my exhaust/engine is LOUD)

5) sound deaden.

 

Righto! Well, it's off to research everything and gather all the components. Just wanted a little advice..standing there in the audio showroom with a salesman rambling on doesn't always provide the greatest feeling about what exactly others have found to work well. I appreciate all the advice..!

 

if you're looking for a nice sounding 'budget' system look at the components that i have (sans amp...unless you want to buy mine )

cdt-2 way, image dynamic 12" sub, xtant or pg ti or zx amps and head unit of your choice.

this hsould get you under your budget. have the audio shop install the amp and door speakers if you dont feel comfortable with it. you should tackle the head unit and sub (just have the installer run the wire for the sub while he's doing everything else...very easy

 

Ahh, your responses just bring more questions (or confusion???..lol)

1. CDT stands for...? Am I right in assuming these 2-way speakers would consist of a same size midrange where the powered sub went in the bracket, and a tweeter where the twiddler was in the bracket, ie. 2 speakers?

2. Once again I'm sorry to be asking the same questions over and over again. I want an amp to power a 10" subwoofer and my door speakers as above, any specific models you'd recommend? I guess it'd be nice to install it under the passenger seat as I've read others have...that seat isn't powered, btw.

Thanks..

 

sorry. cdt is a brand
2-way (short for 2-way component) consists of a mid/bass driver (usually 6.5") and a seperate tweeter
3-way consists of a mid/bass driver, a seperate mid driver, and a seperate tweeter

you'll still need your sub though


as far as models, image dynamics id10v2 or check the elemental designs website for there 10" woofer (look at there least expensive line unless you're going to be putting more then 300 watts to it)

the cdt's 2-way components speakers..i forgot what model no. check on ebay, i think they are in the $200 range.

 

wiring on your own is very easy. I know i was intimidated before i tackle it myself too. Once I took everything apart, you'll be amazed as to how easy everything is on the vette. The interior comes apart very easily, only a couple screws and bolts for the seats. In all honesty, if you know the difference between + and - then you are all set. It will save you lots on install costs. Besides you have us here to help you out whenever you need. Just remember to label everyhting that you take off the car and it wil make putting the car back together a snap. Take a look at http://www.edesignaudio.com/us.php?cur=USD a lot of times they have package deals. Last week they had a sub and amp package for under $400. I run image dynamic, the IDQ10 to be exact. Also, before you make the final decision on purchasing something. DOnt forget to check back to make sure that the power ratings and ohms all match up. So that you dont have to go back and return/exchange soemthing.

 

Excellent advice, another question...this mounting bracket for the doors from vrum vrum...is it a standard size? I guess I'm a little confused on what will fit versus the original BOSE bracket. Guess I should ask him these questions, huh?

 

Vrumvrum makes a CNC'd bracket to your personal specifications depending upon which speakers you purchase. He made a bracket for me with a 6 7/8" hole for my 7" midbass and a 4" hole for my 3" midrange speaker. Worked perfect, lined up well and was nice and square and made mounting a piece of cake. Just have to drill a couple of holes to mount your speakers to it.

Fej