Amp rack paint help
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,404
Likes: 0
From: Lino Lakes, MN _________________________ I Figured out how to do this!
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06
High gloss enamel!
Best results woudl be to fill your joints, prime, sand, fill again, prime again, sand, shoot the color.
Its all in the prep work.
Best results woudl be to fill your joints, prime, sand, fill again, prime again, sand, shoot the color.
Its all in the prep work.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Hey thanks guys, would you recommend a different type of wood? I plan to sand the corners down on the top so it has a round edge look. the top part, will have a round plexiglass see through area. Thanks again. The help/advice you guys give is priceless.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 5,210
Likes: 104
From: Fort Worth TX
St. Jude Donor '06
Father & Son St. Jude Donor '09
MDF is the best choice. You'll have to prime, sand, prime sand and paint, possibly wetsand and paint again and clear.
A good option for you would be to take the finished product, ready for primer, to a body shop and have them prime and paint the thing for you. You could use some quality filler and spray can primer to do 98% of the work. I'd bet you could find a shop or even one of the painters to do it on the side for you for under $200. And trust me, by the time you buy all the material yourself, $200 will look real cheap.
A good option for you would be to take the finished product, ready for primer, to a body shop and have them prime and paint the thing for you. You could use some quality filler and spray can primer to do 98% of the work. I'd bet you could find a shop or even one of the painters to do it on the side for you for under $200. And trust me, by the time you buy all the material yourself, $200 will look real cheap.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 5,210
Likes: 104
From: Fort Worth TX
St. Jude Donor '06
Father & Son St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by comp
what about heat and blistering ???
Black auto paint gets over 200 degrees in the SW without any issues. No amp will hurt any quality paint. Even duplicolor in a can will be just fine.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88,393
Likes: 2
From: eville in
Originally Posted by 74-Roadster
From what?
Black auto paint gets over 200 degrees in the SW without any issues. No amp will hurt any quality paint. Even duplicolor in a can will be just fine.
Black auto paint gets over 200 degrees in the SW without any issues. No amp will hurt any quality paint. Even duplicolor in a can will be just fine.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,572
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles Ca
Originally Posted by 74-Roadster
From what?
Black auto paint gets over 200 degrees in the SW without any issues. No amp will hurt any quality paint. Even duplicolor in a can will be just fine.
Black auto paint gets over 200 degrees in the SW without any issues. No amp will hurt any quality paint. Even duplicolor in a can will be just fine.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,951
Likes: 2
From: D/FW TX
St. Jude Donor '07-'09
Hello CF Audio Section....
I haven't ever posted over here... was just cruising the info...
If you are after a really shiney look, I always use clear laquer... it gives it that kind of wet look.. the enamel always seems a bit dull in comparison to me and tends to dull out, particularly with the sun shining in and the high heat of a closed up car in the summer..
As for primer.. you can't get the good stuff at a regular hardware store.. Go to an auto paint supply store and get the self etching primer. It will take a lot less and do a much better job on the MDF..
If you want a factory smooth finish, pick up some microfinishing polish and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper while at the auto paint store. The key is to work from a heavier grit to a finer grit a step at a time. When you get things smoothed out pretty good, use the microfinishing polish to work out the remaining small blemishes, then wet sand it with the 2000 grit...
As for painting, I usually don't paint stuff like this from a can. As suggested above, you'll get a better finish from a paint shop. I use my spray gun and add hardener and fish eye remover..
Anyway, nice to discover the audio section... hope the info helps..
I haven't ever posted over here... was just cruising the info...
If you are after a really shiney look, I always use clear laquer... it gives it that kind of wet look.. the enamel always seems a bit dull in comparison to me and tends to dull out, particularly with the sun shining in and the high heat of a closed up car in the summer..
As for primer.. you can't get the good stuff at a regular hardware store.. Go to an auto paint supply store and get the self etching primer. It will take a lot less and do a much better job on the MDF..
If you want a factory smooth finish, pick up some microfinishing polish and 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper while at the auto paint store. The key is to work from a heavier grit to a finer grit a step at a time. When you get things smoothed out pretty good, use the microfinishing polish to work out the remaining small blemishes, then wet sand it with the 2000 grit...
As for painting, I usually don't paint stuff like this from a can. As suggested above, you'll get a better finish from a paint shop. I use my spray gun and add hardener and fish eye remover..
Anyway, nice to discover the audio section... hope the info helps..
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Sanford Maine
I agree that prep is the key. I would do all the prep myself and then take it to a local body shop. Unless you have the right equipment and experience you will not be able to get the look you want.
I did most of the prep on my sub enclosure, but I used fiberglass. However, my body guy did a little touchup on my prep work. For a couple hundred dollars, it was well worth it to me.
Bryan
I did most of the prep on my sub enclosure, but I used fiberglass. However, my body guy did a little touchup on my prep work. For a couple hundred dollars, it was well worth it to me.
Bryan
