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should i get rid of the 10" subs in the doors since I have 2 12in subs or should i leave them in?(im planning on replacing all the other speakers in my c6 too)
well i already have 2 12" subs that do the low notes so the 10" have no purpose anymore right. shouldnt i just put a normal size speaker in there place to do the mids. I figured i should make all the 3.5 holes tweeters and then put a mid in both the 5 1/4 holes and then find a larger mid for the 10" hole
Save the stress... get some CDT 3-ways. 1" tweet, 4" mid, 6" bass.
the other option is to build a three way setup, using an 8" sub, a 5.25" mid and 1" tweet. It would be trick.
IF you can find them Canton makes a set of three ways that use an 8" sub, 4" mid and 1" tweet. They are not available in the States... but you might find them in Canada and/or Europe.
I would never put in 2 12s in the back, that's why I installed the 10s in the doors and also replaced all stock speakers with Infinity Kappas. If you prefer the 12s and want to upgrade all the speakers then you could do a 2 way system, say a 6.5 and a dome tweeter. You could get speakers from a place like parts express and even use home speakers just make sure they're 4 ohms and sensitivity around 90 db. You'll need to make custom brackets too.
as far as taking out the door 10's i'd say it's a good idea. It's always a bad idea to have more then one speaker (per side) playing the same frequencies. the ideal speaker enclosure would have just one speaker that could play the whole frequencey range...thats why horn designs (home audio) with a single driver sound so good. being in a car we aren't as fortunate and we have to use multiple drivers. I agree with bogus and vote for going with a nice 3 way set up in the doors and the woofers in the trunk. fej will help you with x-over points
I agree w/ bogus on the 3 way's, but I think 8's are overkill for mids while running 2 12's. 6" or 6.5" will suffice while the 12's are handling the bass. Most premium 6.5's will reproduce good sound far below where you'll x your subs over and should leave you enough room for 3-4"s next to them.
Fair enough,
The corvette is a fairly small inside, this is the reason why I would not want to have 2 12s in the back with a box occupying precious space. The rest of your post dosen't make sense to me. My sugestion was for him to use 2 shallow 10s in the doors an replace the factory speakers but he may do as he please, but what do I know.
I put 2 premier 10" in the doors, very satisfied and I'm not taking up any cargo space with a sub, complete factory look.
can you email me with what you need to make this work this is exactly what I want to do as in my vert trunk space is premium. where did you locate amp to drive them?
It is tough to get a true 10" sub to play well in a car door. Certainly it is doable, but what are you asking that 10" to do? Play sub bass? Play midbass? Play vocals? Asking a 10" driver to play vocals AND midbass AND sub bass that is not a home speaker unit and specifically built to handle some of the vocal range is a tall order.
Adown you and I have some very different ideas on stereos in cars and their tuning
I will just say that true, accurate midbass is about the most difficult thing that you can ask a car stereo to do well. If you just want some solid, hard hitting, LOUD bass and your tweets to make your ears bleed I am not the person to talk to. If you want accurate musical reproduction in your car it is a different road to travel down with regards to your component choices than the above scenario.
Personally in a c6 car I would run an 8" or even 9" midbass driver in the factory location, the best 4" midrange I could afford for the upper door, and whatever tweet material was pleasing to my ear.
Lot of options in those doors for a really great system, and one that may not necessarily need a sub installed with the proper sound deadening and sealing of the doors.
It is tough to get a true 10" sub to play well in a car door. Certainly it is doable, but what are you asking that 10" to do? Play sub bass? Play midbass? Play vocals? Asking a 10" driver to play vocals AND midbass AND sub bass that is not a home speaker unit and specifically built to handle some of the vocal range is a tall order.
Adown you and I have some very different ideas on stereos in cars and their tuning
I will just say that true, accurate midbass is about the most difficult thing that you can ask a car stereo to do well. If you just want some solid, hard hitting, LOUD bass and your tweets to make your ears bleed I am not the person to talk to. If you want accurate musical reproduction in your car it is a different road to travel down with regards to your component choices than the above scenario.
Personally in a c6 car I would run an 8" or even 9" midbass driver in the factory location, the best 4" midrange I could afford for the upper door, and whatever tweet material was pleasing to my ear.
Lot of options in those doors for a really great system, and one that may not necessarily need a sub installed with the proper sound deadening and sealing of the doors.
Fej
Fej
What would you suggest if you are asking these to provide sub base? doing this in lieu of building something in back and to maintain stealth look
Hmm. I would look closely at the mounting depth available in the stock location and let that dictate my choice. I would have to think that you would need a pretty shallow 10" to fit in that location. That would probably lead me to put the best 8" (or 9" if you want to go to a home driver or Exotic high endish) I could fit and afford if you were to ask them to play into the low sub range. Most 8's will play up in to the bottom of the vocal range and allow your 4" to pick up the rest and handle it just fine.
Fej,
I know is a tall order, why would anybody want to settle for a teenage look with a big boom box in the back? I'm sure you know the C6 doesn't have the center storage compartment the C5 does so if you want a sub back there it WILL take up some space. If you replace the 10s with nicer, shallow 10s and the 3.5 with component speakers for mids and highs you should get a very good setup. You can cross the 10 at 250 hz or so let the mid go from there to 1.5 to 2kHz. This should give you a balanced sound given proper installation, i.e.- vinyl deading in the doors, etc. Then again if you want crazy bass the 2 12s might be your ticket meal. Either way, everybody will do what their taste dictates. I do want accurate musical reproduction, so I do what I can in my car within the the level of compromise I'm willing to live with, for all out performance I listen to my home stereo where I don't have these restrictions, my Duntech's are freaking huge!!!
Last edited by oscarav098; May 6, 2006 at 12:40 PM.
It is hard for me to speak to what should be done with a c6 door as I have never done an install in one, only seen pictures and looked at factory "together" cars. A 10" will certainly play up to the 250hz range, it is mainly a question of at what compromise, and will your chosen 3/4" replacement pick up where the 10" leaves off. Through my installs I have found the higher you ask a speaker to play that is designed to play mid/sub bass the more low end output you lose. (and accuracy/detail)
Osca can you list a part number to the 10's that you used from Pioneer? At least give me an idea what will fit in the door.
Sounds like that is a good option for those not willing to sacrafice space in the rear of the car for a sub enclosure of some sort. Just spend some $$$ on a good quality (probably a "cone" NOT a "dome") 4" to pick up a bit of the upper midbass range and play most of your vocals for you and toss a tweet in there and you are golden
It is hard for me to speak to what should be done with a c6 door as I have never done an install in one, only seen pictures and looked at factory "together" cars. A 10" will certainly play up to the 250hz range, it is mainly a question of at what compromise, and will your chosen 3/4" replacement pick up where the 10" leaves off. Through my installs I have found the higher you ask a speaker to play that is designed to play mid/sub bass the more low end output you lose. (and accuracy/detail)
Osca can you list a part number to the 10's that you used from Pioneer? At least give me an idea what will fit in the door.
Sounds like that is a good option for those not willing to sacrafice space in the rear of the car for a sub enclosure of some sort. Just spend some $$$ on a good quality (probably a "cone" NOT a "dome") 4" to pick up a bit of the upper midbass range and play most of your vocals for you and toss a tweet in there and you are golden
Fej
Fej
Here is the Pioneer sub he is talking about, PIONEER TS-SW1041D 10" SHALLOWMOUNT 1000W SUBWOOFER
I am putting that with the Alpine W200 Head Unit and likely the PDX alpine new amps as they will fit in rear compartment.
The C6 will take a 10" low frequency driver and a 3.5" mid/hi. The premier model is TS-SW1041D. You could use an infinity kappa 3.5, very sensitive and decent sounding. If you want component I'm sure there is tons of choices such as JL or dynaudio. Heck this VIFA TC08SD49-08 3-1/2" might work just match it to the right tweeter and done. In order to get good bass you would have to close the service hole on the door with .25" mdf treated with deading on both sides. Trust me this sounds good and I should know, this is what I did in my car after months of research. I took my time with the install and it turned out perfect and best of, at least for me, complete factory look.