I just want to know if the system I would like to put in will work well. I really dont know much about installing systems (or sound systems at all for that matter) and would like any recommendations on anyone in the upstate S.C., Western N.C., or in Louisiana around Baton Rouge who can do this install. I want it done right the first time.

It'll be a Xmas present from the maternal unit and she insists on it being a Kenwood system if she's paying for it, I absolutely hate my current Jensen head unit and want to delete Bose entirely. I just want a new, basic setup, but with the flexibility to improve upon it later and not have to redo the whole thing.

I was thinking of a Kenwood KDC-2032 head unit, 14 gauge wiring, 6x9s in the back, and am not sure of what to put in the doors? 6.5" round?

head, i do want something that is ipod-compatible and plays mp3 cds

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dU2GDQt...00&I=113MP2032

6x9s?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dU2GDQt...0&I=113KFC6960

or

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dU2GDQt...0&I=113KFC6970

If it makes a difference, I was thinking of 'someday' adding a small sub in the rear compartment and an amp. I dont think an amp is really required with just a basic 4-speaker and head unit setup is it?

TIA

 

Did you read the C4 sticky at the top of the page? There is alot of good info there. With an 88, I believe you have a lot of options as to speaker size. You do not need to install an amp right away, but it would make your life easier. As for head units, you should take a look at Eclipse or Alpine also; and remember, anything Crutchfield sells, you can buy on Ebay for 40% less.

 

I don't think you'll have a problem getting a system installed. I have an 86 and mine was pretty simple - should be a no-brainer for any experienced car audio shop. 14 gauge isn't very big for speaker or power wire - bigger is better. Less resistance = less power loss to your speakers.

You might want to consider a head unit with a subwoofer output. That will make adding a single sub/amp a simple add on for another time. And you can still let the head unit power your 4 speakers. How well it will sound depends on the deck and speaker combo you use. But, there's no comparison to running a good external amp to power your speakers. You can always add an amp later if you want, but then you'll have to do some re-wiring at the head unit as well.

I'm not up on what's good for brands or components these days, but if you want to run an MP3 player, look for something Ipod compatible or with a mini input. It's a big improvement over an FM modualtor. hope this helps.

 

But what about those who want to do the install themselves? I find it hard to believe that no one on here has done it. I have no problem doing it, just not 100% sure what needs to be done.

 

What exactly do you want to do? I think you said before you have a new head unit?

There's the R&R portion: removing your old radio and/or speakers and replacing them with new ones. A few screws removes the center console bezel, then 4 screws holds the radio. Unplug the antenna lead and a wiring harness or 2 and it's out. You buy a wiring harness kit that plugs into the GM harness in the dash, then that gets connected to your new radio. Your new deck will have wiring instructions on how to connect it to the harness.

Wish I had some pics to illustrate - maybe I can find some on the net if this sounds like what you're trying to do.

Then you can either run new speaker wires to doors and trunk, or possibly use the old wiring.

 

Ok so if it doesnt have a subwoofer output then I can't add a sub to the system?

What gauge speaker wire do you suggest?

I'm right in that 6.5" round is the biggest size that'll fit in front right? Yes I've read the FAQ several times but I want to be sure there's not a Bose-specific problem.

Which will sound better, a 6.5" round in front and back, or the 6.5" in front and 6x9 in back?

 

14 gauge wire for speakers is more than enough.

If you want to do sub(s), I HIGHLY recommend looking into a pair of 8" subs in the rear stock enclosures. It's a great way to save space and still have great sound.

For the head unit without a sub out... you have options, actually. Get a multichannel amp with a built in crossover is a real easy way to deal with it.

I would suggest a better head unit. Alpine and Eclipse are great choices. The other advantage with those brands is the voltage output of the RCAs. The higher the voltage, the less prone to EMF noise.

Also, don't buy from eBay. Most major brands have clauses that will allow them to void all factory warrantees if purchased from unauthorized online stores. Crutchfield is the only online store that sells Alpine with warrantee. Same with JL Audio, except, they don't have any authorized online sales outlets.

I would use about 4 gauge wire to power an amp or amps. Run hot AND ground back to the battery. I have done this with ZERO noise.

The head unit can be connected to the factory power harness for switched, memory, antenna and ground. No problems.

Run new speaker wire... no matter what you are doing.

If you do the 8" subs in the rear, consider a high quality front stage... something like CDT, Focal, JL Audio, MB Quart or Boston. Something that will bring the highs and mids to life.

 

If you dont have a sub out, then you can add a sub to the system. You would just need an amp that used a speaker level input rather than RCA inputs.


As far as system, the simplest is best.

6x9's, or any kind of oblong speaker size for that matter dont sound as good as a circular speaker. You would be must better off going with a 6.6 inch if you can fit it, or a 5.25 inch.

You dont even really need rear speakers to be honest. Sound stage should come from the front of you, not the rear of you. Invest more money in better front speakers and a good clean amp. If you can fit 6.5's in the front, then get a good quality separates system.

I agree with bogus, get a better head unit. Kenwoods, in my exp, arent the best (unless its the Excelon stuff). Most of the higher end units are going to have a 4volt or 5volt pre-amp output that will give your amp a decent input signal, so that the amp should be able to cleanly power any speakers that you hook up to it.

 

Vader & 4Ever , I think your best bet is to go check out some speakers and head units at local car audio stores or a Best Buy/ Circuit City. That way you can look & listen and compare speakers, amps etc. Granted it's going to sound different in the store than in your car, but you'll get an idea what it sounds like. You Can Not tell a good sounding speaker from specs.

I guarantee you any car stereo installation store will know exactly what fits your car and what their better brands are.

What Bogus points out about warrantys when buying off Ebay also applies to many online electronics stores. Though I wouldn't hesitate to buy off ebay myself. They are not always authorized to resell brand
XXX, though brand XXX will still usually honor their warranty. The last place I would ever buy anything electronic is Crutchfield! Wayyyy overpriced.

A subwoofer output offers a pair of dedicated RCA outputs so you can run an RCA cable directly from the head unit to the subwoofer amplifier. If the head unit doesn't have sub outputs, then you need to add either a crossover, EQ or amp that has a built in crossover. This allows you to split the signal from the radio and send the low frequencies to the subs and the higher frequencies to your main, full-range speakers.

--Also, front speakers are considered "fill" speakers, not main drivers. If you aren't using the the same speakers all the way around, then the majority of the power should come from the rear.

Here's an amp of mine. Wiring harness on the right side of the amp is for 12V power and speaker leads. RCA cables on the left is what gets wired into your head unit (or crossover or EQ)

 

It has to be a Kenwood, on that I have no choice. I cant afford the system myself, my money goes to engine and suspension mods, and there are few things that she would actually pay for. Its unlikely she'd buy from online stores unless I make her, I'm just using Crutchfield as an easy reference. Personally I would prefer an Alpine.

I have very little confidence in the installers at Best Buy or Circuit City, they have screwed things up for me in the past, though I have listened to several systems there to get an idea of what I wanted as far as options go, and to inspect the actual units.

I'm going to install 4 new speakers either way, so I guess my question remains on the sizes I should run?
If a 6.5" round sounds better, then what would a 6x9 give that is different in sound?

Will other speakers fit beneath the Bose covers in the doors and rear? Do these slide right into the current space available?

 

no speakers will fit where the bose fits, at least not without mods.

the door speakers are sealed enclosures, that are nothing short of a bitch to remove.

the rears are easier, but the enclosures still have to be removed, and a baffle made.

Why does your mom have such a dire hard on for Kenwood? If she is basing it on some past glory, it's just that. Alpine and Eclipse have totally passed Kenwood by.

 

I know how to install the head unit, its a cakewalk. However, the speakers and wiring are the biggest problem for me. I've taken out the speakers, but cant get to the amps. Can I use the factory wiring if its in good shape for my aftermarket speakers? Will it work if I just take out the amps and old speakers? This is the part i'm really confused with. At Best Buy the install guy told me that the system would have to rewired to put the head unit in.

 

Ok, after doing some research on the Bose systems and talking to my buddy I found out all you have to do is bypass the amps and their wiring when installing new speakers. The best way is to run new wire from the speakers straight to the head unit. Sounds kinda hard to run wire through the car. Anybody have any tips or guides to doing this?

 

Do most speakers fit underneath the Bose speaker cover or will something have to be made, I dont want a hole left when the new ones go in and I dont want a lip to stick on the doors?

I guess if 4 6.5" speakers is the way to go thats what I'll ask for.

 

4, 6.5" speakers will work.

Did you read my post from above? Have you scanned the C4 Audio FAQ?

The bose boxes must come out, and that isn't easy. IT requires taking the doors apart. They are too small to support a 6.5" driver.

You may need to add a "notch filter" to the door speakers. They have a tendency to amplify the 160hz range.

Once you get the bose out, the rest is fabrication. I am sure you will get it done.

 

Ok I dont know how to fabricate anything for speakers. Will 5.25" round speakers fit without having to modify the doors? Is there a book or something I can get that tells how to make enclosures for sound systems or how to wire them?

 

it's not that hard... use some thin MDF or plywood and make a baffle to interface the speaker to the door. Then, use either the aftermarket grill, or the Bose grill.

 

Alright, got it. Now on rewiring the car, can I follow the wires till I can go no further and then tie the new wire to the old wire and pull the end of the old one out to pull the new one through the car or is that simply not going to happen? I dont know where the wires go for the rears and I dont feel like tearing the interior apart to find out.

 

Dont know but it sounds like it should work.

Just run then under the carpet. Much easier than trying to find where thry ran the stock wires. IMO

 

the rear speaker wires run down the sill sides, I think.

it is best to just cover them.

The fronts are not too bad...they left a gaping door access hole.