C6 NAV System Head Unit Output Analysis



I installed a PAC OEM GM24 interface to get RCA outputs from the NAV head in my C6 vert. Today we hooked that output up to my buddy's test rig PC to see what we were working with. Had mixed results as there seems to be a built-in "loudness" into the output of the head. I triple-checked that all the auto EQ was off, the tone controls were all set to their center positions, auto-volume was off, etc so as to get the most pure possible output.
Here's what we were hoping to see, the pink noise track from the outputs of a CD player, about as close to flat as you'll see.
OK, so this one is at a low volume level, we were looking good at this point.
This is at a medium volume setting, you're seeing the bass roll-off now.
And it just continues at high volume.
Some notes from my buddy, framed as counterpoints to misconceptions:
2. the sound card isn’t capable of flat response (the card is a specialty brand modified for extended response, and it doesn’t have to be perfectly flat since the program does a response calibration to account for this)
3. the voltages on the left sides of the plots are NOT voltages in the traditional sense, they’re electrical dB, not actual millivolts
4. this isn’t common (not true…most OEM and some aftermarket head units suffer this condition or something very similar and is the main reason a factory system “sounds” louder than when it’s replaced straight up with aftermarket equipment)
5. C-weighting should be applied (this would alter the curve and actually make it appear even worse in the same problem areas)
If anybody knows of a buried setting that I just missed I'd love to hear it.. but man we scoured the book and pressed every button we could making sure we covered the bases.
Last edited by TheKomoman; Sep 28, 2006 at 01:43 PM.
I'm currently using the 2 JL amps, the 650s in front and a (temporary) Bazooka tube in the rear. One thing I'd definitely recommend is you get the amp that has the remote bass control ****, as I'm always having to adjust the bass depending on the source and music. I got a 250/1, as it should easily power the 2 8's I'm going to put in, but it doesn't have the bass control ****, and for that reason alone, I've considered upgrading to a 500/1. Meanwhile, I'm twidling my thumbs waiting for my subs.




I'm currently using the 2 JL amps, the 650s in front and a (temporary) Bazooka tube in the rear. One thing I'd definitely recommend is you get the amp that has the remote bass control ****, as I'm always having to adjust the bass depending on the source and music. I got a 250/1, as it should easily power the 2 8's I'm going to put in, but it doesn't have the bass control ****, and for that reason alone, I've considered upgrading to a 500/1. Meanwhile, I'm twidling my thumbs waiting for my subs.


You mentioned having to adjust the bass.. have you noticed (or perhaps now will make note of) whether you need to increase bass relative to increased volume? That would be the real issue based on our findings as bass rolls off during an increase in gain.
Currently, I'm using both the bass control on the HU and the fader, as I'm only running a front channel. I'm using the rear channel for the sub; therefore, the fader acts as a bass boost. I like this setup, but it is a pain to get to the fader area and back while driving. I really do think a bass control ****, to infinitely adjust the amp supplying the subs, right near the center console would be ideal.



This from the JL Cleansweep page describes what I'm talking about:
A huge number of factory-installed sound systems incorporate non-defeatable (often radical) equalization curves aimed at correcting the response of factory speaker systems. Many also employ volume-dependent equalization effects; for example, reducing bass output at high volume and increasing it at low volume. While these characteristics might make sense within the limitations of the factory-installed speaker system, they wreak havoc on sound quality when a higher performance system is installed. Simple line level converters cannot correct for this equalization, but CleanSweep® can!
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...php?page_id=90
This is a link to the PDF on that page that has easier to see versions of the plots:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/CleanSweep_RCC.pdf
It's looking like I'll be adding a Cleansweep to my list of purchases.
Thank you for posting the results.
Ryan



Thank you for posting the results.
Ryan
Ryan,
The way around this is to use something like the JL Cleansweep which takes the signal and "flattens" it through signal processing prior to sending the signal to the amplifier.
I seem to be the only one with these findings and it has been suggested that the PAC OEM GM24 interface I am using may be the culprit. I am going to be bypassing the "noise inducing black box" (as Steve Germany calls it) part of the module and re-evaluating the output. I will again post my results when I have them.
Dan
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Can't wait until we get to see what Komoman (Dan) comes up with on the signals (not that it will change my set up) but I'm curious on what pleases my ears!



Steve: If there is no need for the black box, what exactly does it do besides boost the signal? Million dollar question: Do the RCAs really need a boosted signal? From what you're saying, no
.I'm about to finish the install of my sub today (nice timing
), and I'll probably just use the box for the time being. With that in mind, I've never used one with gain control. Where do you start the settings on the gain control? I was assuming to just leave them like they cam from the factro...?
Ryan




The PAC OEM GM-24 was never designed to be compatable with the Vette NAV unit. In fact if you check the PAC web site it does not list the NAV C6. I'm not sure what the function is with the Base C6 (impedance matching??? stereo front back loudness level adjustment???) all I know is that it is not needed and all adjustments can be achieved through amplifier adjustments.



After splicing in the RCA's I re-calibrated the Cleansweep at the same level I had when using the PAC and then played the 2 CD's I had listened to just before doing this so I had a good A/B. The difference was rather dramatic. The immediate difference was that no matter how much gain *increase* that module said it had the signal output was obviously much higher without that in the signal path. While there previously wasn't distortion evident the sound is kinda like a veil was lifted off the speakers. Everything was tighter, highs clearer, bass punchier.
Thanks for putting the idea in my brain Steve, it was well worth the effort!



I was lured by the cool factor of the HUD integration but if I were to do it again I would have gone with the non-nav and started completely from scratch. The NAV head isn't awful but you're absolutely right, it ain't Eclipse or Alpine quality.









