dead battery???
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Instructor
Joined: Aug 2005
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dead battery???
I just connected the new stereo last night. Everything worked fine. Came out this morning and it was dead. Could it be DBS or did I do something wrong with the stereo...I know everything is grounded correctly.
Should the power lights for the amps be on all the time? I used the pac-oem gm24 and hooked the remote wire to the white wire in b3.
Brian
Should the power lights for the amps be on all the time? I used the pac-oem gm24 and hooked the remote wire to the white wire in b3.
Brian
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Instructor
Joined: Aug 2005
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Originally Posted by pentavolvo
if the lights on the amps are on at all times you have the wrong remote wire
Brian
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Skippack PA
St Jude Donor '13
Originally Posted by hymnatr
Do you know which one I have to connect it to. I connected it to the white wire in b3. Thats what I read on here. One thing I just noticed is that the power wire for the pac-oem need to be to the switched 12v. Which means if its on the constant 12v they will always remain on, right?
Brian
Brian
I believe people have used an add-a-circuit and plugged it into a switched fuse in the passenger footwell as a trigger. Vague memory but it may have been the seat heater fuse. I think it's mentioned in cmb13's write-up, which is linked in the FAQ.
One thing to be careful of here, though I don't recall cmb13 mentioning it as a problem.. triggering from a different source like that can lead to popping in the speakers when the amp turns on. Make sure you have the volume turned way down the first few times you try it until you're sure it doesn't happen.
Former Vendor
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From: Murfreesboro, TN. "I'm like a kid in a candy store everytime I see a Corvette!!"
Originally Posted by hymnatr
Do you know which one I have to connect it to. I connected it to the white wire in b3. Thats what I read on here. One thing I just noticed is that the power wire for the pac-oem need to be to the switched 12v. Which means if its on the constant 12v they will always remain on, right?
Brian
Brian
However, one note of interest... in my experience as an installer, the OEM integration pieces usually provide a switched 12V OUT for your new radio. The 12v switched output is provided by means of a relay inline, and is triggered by the data bus signal itself (as there is no ignition wire in the radio harness) to create a 12v output via the relay.
The Peripheral pieces that I have used, and swear by, have always worked flawlessly, without any mods, or any kind of funky programming... just plug and play.
I hope my info has helped you out in your search for the answers...
