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so im well on my way with the bottom of the fiberglassed box but i think i'm going to have a problem with the top. im planning on tilting the sub so it is aimed towards the seats more but i'm confused on how to attatch the ring to the fleace. this isn't going to be a volcano design, part of the ring will be slightly above 'ground level' and part of the ring will be below 'ground level'. normally you just stretch the fleace over the ring. but that will only work on half the ring.
do i need two rings to sandwich the fleace between?
Scott....can you cut a rabbit in the ring with a router? If so do that...a very thin rabbit just enough for the fleece to sit flush with the top of the wood. Then place the ring where you want it. Once that is done stretch your fleece and staple it to the ring within the rabbit. Cut the fllece out of the center of the ring and mask off the inside of the ring and the top so no resin gets on it. This will save you alot of hassle of having to clean out harden resin from inside the ring.
Did I explain that ok? If you are not in a rush I could make a little sample and put up pics.
thanks eg, but that isn't exactly what my issue is. picture it this way you have box sitting level with that box is a ring. now rotate that on the x axis. now you'll notice that the front part of the rign sits below the box top and the back part of the ring sits above it. if i were to just stretch the fleece over it only the part that was above the box top would actually contact the fleece.
on a side, yet related note. is it ok to build a support to have the w7's magnet rest against? i'm guessing the torsional force of have the speaker at an angle is going to be massive when i hit a bump.
EG...what you did works but I can show you a way to do it with alot less labor often allowing you to achive better results. The big trick is minimizing the amount of grinding you have to do on the fiberglass. The less you do the better. I have been able to stream line my process to the point I only have to hit the fiberglass with a 36 grit grinding wheel and then onto bodyfiller. I will post up pics in the near future but you should make it over to my place in Nov.
here...just in case you are thinking about doing it:
no no no ive seen it your posts. I just have all of these ideas for the trunk that i want to play around with and seeing everyones work lately has made me want to get into fiberglassing.
i think this question got overlooked so i'll post it again:
is it ok to build a support to have the w7's magnet rest against? i'm guessing the torsional force of the speaker at an angle is going to be massive when i hit a bump.
Last edited by scott_fx; Oct 28, 2006 at 01:51 PM.
i think this question got overlooked so i'll post it again:
is it ok to build a support to have the w7's magnet rest against? i'm guessing the torsional force of have the speaker at an angle is going to be massive when i hit a bump.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Originally Posted by scott_fx
i think this question got overlooked so i'll post it again:
is it ok to build a support to have the w7's magnet rest against? i'm guessing the torsional force of the speaker at an angle is going to be massive when i hit a bump.
Silly question, but why support the magnet? Why not support the ring and let the speak "float" in the middle?
distribution of weight. the speaker is going to be putting a lot of force on the ring (rotational force) by putting a support under the magnet i would be relieving the speaker ring from the rotational force and just let it support the weight...not the torque
distribution of weight. the speaker is going to be putting a lot of force on the ring (rotational force) by putting a support under the magnet i would be relieving the speaker ring from the rotational force and just let it support the weight...not the torque
I would be worried about vibration of the magnet to the box, are you planning on putting a rubber gasket between the box and the woofer?