Gentlemen,

I have an '02 C5 Coupe and wish to upgrade the stock system by adding a Polk DX10 sub and Pioneer GM-X802 amplifier (which I have had since high school ). As it turns out, the previous owner had already wired the car for a subwoofer which I have tested and it works . However, after examining the job , I have a few questions. I have used the search feature, read the C5 sticky, and Googled as well and came up dry. Here goes:

1. It appears that it is getting the signal from wires located below the passenger side rear hatch speaker. The wires are light blue and dark blue. A PAC SNI35 is used. My research has lead me to believe that it is wired into the wrong spot and should be wired into the door speakers or head unit. If it is wrong, which wires should I be using and what is the best way to get to them? Pictures and/or instructions would be most helpful.

2. Both the power and ground cables have "connections" in them where a connector was used to add length. Should I got to the trouble to rewire or is this ok? Maybe removing the connectors and soldering would fix it?

3. At first, I was going to mount the amp on the back wall. However, it seems like it would come flying loose in the event of a collision. Mounting behind the passenger seat seems like the safer and more stealthy way to go. However, a quick trial fit indicates that it would limit seat travel and/or the seat would rest on the amplifier especially when the 1/2" MDF is added to screw into, which I don't like. Suggestions?

Thanks in advance for your help,

Sincerely,

Bullman

 

From what I recall...

The amp signal is taken from the rear speaker(s) when you choose not to use one of the PAC head unit adapters.

The aftermarket amp adapter that is plugged into the head unit/harness is the PAC AOEM-VET1.

I deliberated on using MDF glued under the carpet to attach my amp but ultimately decided on integrating the amp onto my sub enclosure. I built my sub box with the top piece extended to function as an amp rack. FYI, I built my box to fill in the hole in the center of my trunk space on my 03 Z06.

Finally, if it was me, I'd run fresh wires w/o any splicing since it is not that much of an ordeal.

Anyway, best of luck with the install. Mine was a little of a pain until I grounded my amp directly to the frame. I tried using the bolt to the carseat hook but it was a no-go (even after grinding paint off the nut).

 

It sounds like the source signal is being pulled from the rear speakers. This may be ok and I think worth a try. I personally used the PAC AOEM-VET1 which got the signal from the HU. I have heard some people say that they don't get good "bass" signal from the rear speakers of a BOSE system because the BOSE only sends mid/high signals to the rear speakers. But I think it's worth a shot since it's already in place.

As for the spliced wiring.... I would personally change it. You run the increased risk of the connector failing and the sub not working properly or even wiring shorting out if it happened to touch something metallic. I would feel better knowing it was in one piece from start to finish. It isn't too expensive to buy new power wire.

Best of luck with the new system. I'm sure you will like the upgrade.

 

Thanks for the reply. Your install looks really clean, and I would steal your idea to do the same thing if I had a Z06 or Vert. However, I would like to keep all of the components hidden and/or out of the way.

Just to muddy up the water, according to the tech tip it says

"Wiring info: The following are the Bose head unit 4 channel pre-amp outputs Signal CD/Radio Color code LF out C4(9) TAN/BLK RF out C4(10) LT GRN/BLK LR out C4(11) BRN RR out C4(12) DK BLU Common C4(13) LT BLU, DO NOT USE FOR EXTERNAL POWER AMP"

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=120&TopicID=1, the way I read it, it says not to use the wires from the rear speakers for an external amplifier (Light Blue and Dark Blue). However, it does not say which wires to use.

The C5 FAQ Sticky mentions the wires going to the subwoofers in the doors, but does not identify which ones. If I wanted to pull the signal from there, just to make a comparison, do you guys know which ones it would be?

Thanks again,

Bullman

 

what its saying is not to use the common wires in C4 for ur return path

 

Sorry guys, I am basically an electrical idiot. Several of you have said the RR speaker wires are ok to tap into. It currently uses the Light and Dark Blue.

Could you confirm this is correct?

Also, what does C4 mean?

Thanks,

Bullman

 

Ok, I hooked it up again and took a listen. Now, I am not an expert, but it sounded like crap. It seemed like the front door panel speakers were hitting while the sub was just barely doing anything. If I turned the amplifier's low pass filter on, the sub basically quit. This tells me that it is not getting the low end notes and I need a new signal source. So, is the only solution the PAC AOEM-VET1 or are there some additional wires to try out?

Sorry for all of the questions,

Bullman

 

I will wait to hear from some of the experts here regarding if there are any good wires to tap for the signal. Like I posted earlier, I think the BOSE system sends different signal to different speakers. I do believe there are some wires that can be tapped from the front speakers, but I can't recall which they are at the moment.

Are you planning to keep the BOSE HU for the long haul? If so, it might be just best to get the AOEM-VET1 adapter. If you plan to upgrade the HU, then you can get the signal from the RCA outputs of the new HU and save the adapter money (not needed with aftermarket HU).

Come on experts...which wires to tap for a BLOSE system for the sub amp signal?

 

c4 is 84-96 corvette

 

Dave,

I am sticking with the stock HU for the forseeable future. I may upgrade the in car speakers at a later date.

I am going to order one of the PAC OEM's tonight unless one of our esteemed experts can tell me which wires to grab. I know that at least one of you guys know!

Kale,

When you are right, you are right, though out of context


Bullman