Audio/Electronics Stereo System Installation Info, Amplifiers, Subwoofers, Radar Detectors, Police Scanners, and CB Radios for the Corvette
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 08:30 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by speedmd
ARRRRGHHH.... This was supposed to be an easy head unit swap and it's turning into a nightmare.

So, I've changed the speaker outputs to the RCA and wired those to the Metra harness and the hissing is gone. Sounds great....

But now, when I shut everything down there is a loud POP from the speakers. I suspect it's the amp not powering down at the right time. Did I miss something or do I need to replace this amp now afterall?
Glad to hear the hiss is gone anyway.

You're likely right that the pop is due to when things are shutting off. I don't recall you mentioning where you're powering the new head unit so I'll assume you've probably tapped into an ignition power source. So that is turning off when you shut off the engine but the amp stays on.. so *pop*.

Peripherpal makes a module called GMRAP. You tie this into the 12V the stock radio was using and the serial data wire that is also in the radio harness, then power the head unit from it's output wire. This will make it so that the head and the stock amp are shutting off at the same time and the added benefit is that you will get RAP with your aftermarket unit just like the stock.

http://peripheralelectronics.com/pro...Bus&strSearch=
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 03:50 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman

Peripherpal makes a module called GMRAP. You tie this into the 12V the stock radio was using and the serial data wire that is also in the radio harness, then power the head unit from it's output wire. This will make it so that the head and the stock amp are shutting off at the same time and the added benefit is that you will get RAP with your aftermarket unit just like the stock.

http://peripheralelectronics.com/pro...Bus&strSearch=
I picked up the GMRAP and nothing with the Metra instructions indicate which is the serial (class 2 data) wire.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 03:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by calemasters
Top right corner of this schematic shows the data wire. Should be wire A1, an orange wire according to that schematic.

Here's a pic I have of the harness where I identified the line level outs. If you look in the upper right-hand corner you'll see A, 1 and an orange wire heading into it. That should be it!

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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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You're fast, I was just looking at that diagram to see if I could figure out where it was on the harness.

Thanks, trying it now.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 04:06 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by speedmd
You're fast, I was just looking at that diagram to see if I could figure out where it was on the harness.

Thanks, trying it now.

When we started exchanging replies like instant messages I subscribed to the thread.

Besides, motivated self interest on this one... while I'm re-doing my setup this spring I intend to install one of these. Speaking of, where did you buy it?

Looking forward to the results.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman
When we started exchanging replies like instant messages I subscribed to the thread.

Besides, motivated self interest on this one... while I'm re-doing my setup this spring I intend to install one of these. Speaking of, where did you buy it?

Looking forward to the results.
http://www.cardomain.com/item/PERGMRAP Is where I found one online. I checked one of the places they list as a reseller near me and they would have to order it, so I cut out the middle man.

Well, it's hooked up, but still popping. The serial wire on the GM harness is orange and it connects to the pink wire on the Metra which is connected to the door chime, which makes sense since the chime can be on without the car being on or in acc mode.

I'm going to go over my wiring again to see if I missed something.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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I'm starting to think the metra and the gmrap are performing the same task. I found some "pop" eliminators online and I'm going to give that a try.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 06:38 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by speedmd
I'm starting to think the metra and the gmrap are performing the same task. I found some "pop" eliminators online and I'm going to give that a try.
Did the metra interface provide 12V power? You should moved the power for the head unit to the +12 power output of the GMRAP. Just hooking it in to the VSS & power doesn't do the trick.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 08:11 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman
Did the metra interface provide 12V power? You should moved the power for the head unit to the +12 power output of the GMRAP. Just hooking it in to the VSS & power doesn't do the trick.
gmrap hooks into the metra and the HU gets power (red lead) from the gmrap.

The manual for the gmrap is here http://peripheralelectronics.com/per...structions.pdf
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 08:49 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by speedmd
gmrap hooks into the metra and the HU gets power (red lead) from the gmrap.

The manual for the gmrap is here http://peripheralelectronics.com/per...structions.pdf
Figured I'd better check the basics first, I've done enough computer troubleshooting to try to avoid kicking myself an hour later because I assumed what I felt to be obvious. No offense intended.

Have you tested the head unit to make sure the RAP is operating properly? Turn off the ignition and the head & amp should stay on like the factory system did.

If that's happening then sorry to say, but the relay on the amp must be tripping later than the power on the head unit via the RAP and you're still getting that pop because the head is off before the amp. Other than perhaps the things you're finding online (I've never used them) there's really not anything you can do. Because you're going to be replacing the amp the problem will go away then so don't beat your head too much on it. Just make sure you trigger the amp from the head.
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 09:08 PM
  #31  
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Well, I tested and the GMRAP and the Metra do the same thing, keep the behavior of the stock radio. The Metra has the additional harness which makes it easier.

I added the delayed turn off device and it looks like it doesn't send enough power to turn the amp on. yay!

So, to anyone that is attempting to use the stock amp and speakers with a new head unit in a 1LT, don't waste your time, it's all crap.

I am going to order my speaker and amp replacements instead of wasting more time with the worst stock car stereo layout I have ever had the displeasure of touching.
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 09:58 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by speedmd
I am going to order my speaker and amp replacements instead of wasting more time with the worst stock car stereo layout I have ever had the displeasure of touching.
It's Bose, it blows.
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 10:21 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by TheKomoman
... What I'm concerned about with the hiss is that you used the speaker level outputs of your new head instead of RCA/line-level outputs. That will definitley introduce hiss. One of those "start with the simple" kinda troubleshooting questions.
Isn't that BAD for the amp? It's sending x_volts of signal to the input that is expecting x_milivolts...

I burned out the input section of an EQ by mistakenly sending it speaker level outputs to a line-level input, duh.

I know it's water under the bridge now, just an FYI for those of us still going down this road. This thread has been great reading/info.
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 01:30 AM
  #34  
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It's 1:30am and my head unit swap is complete. It started as a simple HU swap, and turned into an amp, woofers, tweeters and crossovers. When I realized what a PITA it is to work in tight quarters I went ahead with my NAV, Sirius and backup camera.

I've had a chance to listen to the stereo and it's much better now. Still need to test the NAV, get sirius working and check the backup camera, but I'm tired.

Thanks to all the helped me out with tips, images, and advice.

Pipedreams/TheKomoman's speaker mount plates, they are serious time savers and fit perfect.

And with that, I am passing out! I need some sleep so I can take a spin tomorrow.
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 10:10 AM
  #35  
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thats what every simple radio swap turns into lol... looking forward to seeing what you used and some pics
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Old Mar 6, 2007 | 06:47 PM
  #36  
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Ok, stereo is in. I haven't installed rears yet, I wanted to see if I needed them. It's been a few days and I still haven't decided what to do with them. Here are a bunch of pics, I tried to cover most of the major functions of the HU, in case anyone is looking at the kenwood.

This is the head unit starting up, the mounting bezel is from crutchfield and is included free with purchase, it's perfect.


These are the speakers in the door, Pipedreams/TheKomoman's speaker mounts are in there too!


This is the DVD player playing an mp3:


This is the DVD slot:


This is the selection screen:


And here is a DVD playing, bonus points if you know the movie:


Kenwood amp behind passenger seat:


NAV Unit:


Backup Camera:


The camera works from there, but I'm not sure I like how it looks...I may move it....I don't know where it will go though.
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 12:05 AM
  #37  
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Damn, NICELY done...now you can come down and help me do mine
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