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I am looking for sub's for my vette again.. I have a A/D/S PH12 6 channel amp I am going to use to power the system. Only thing is I CANNOT Bridge the amp. So I am looking at a pair of Subs..
I want 8" subs. they also need to be able to be installed in a smaller box.. I want to conserve what little space is in the back. I am not going to remove the storage boxes. I will be making the box removable as well.
I had also thought of one 6.5" bazooka before I found I cound bridge the amp. any other suggestions?
Can't Bridge? What is the power rating of the amp? Did you get the plug? I would confirm with the tech guys at A/D/S that its not bridgeable. A single 10 would be better if you can bridge as you would save space and still get great sound.
92TripleBlack :cheers:
Amp is a PH12.. approx 25watts per channel. Not 100% sure I have the manual at home.
I called A/D/S about the cable.. they sell them.. a 16 foot cable is $25. I have an adapter for the din to RCA. so I would rather spend $25 on the long DIN instead of running 3 set of RCA's.
When I called A/D/S the Tech Rep. I spoke with said the PH15 was Bridgeable. but the PH12 is not.. :(
Not bridgeable? That's a surprise. Well, I'd just look for efficient speakers in that case. I'd also consider a dual driver or wiring the subs together to decrease the impedance and increase the effective output of the amp. Did he say how many ohms it was able to go down to? Home is usually 8, car is 4, but good stuff should be able to go down to 2 or 1. I had a PH 30, the big grandson of your amp. It was 75x6. They could go down to 2 ohms no problems. This is called wiring the subs in parallel. Speakers that are wired in parallel are all connected to the positive and negative terminals of the amplifier. So, when two speakers are wired in parallel, you'll connect each speaker's positive lead to the amplifier's positive terminal, and you'll connect each speaker's negative lead to the amplifier's negative terminal. Two 4 ohm subs in parallel will give you a 2 ohm load on the amp. And a 25w output will act like 50w with a 2 ohm load. More power for the subs.
Check the FAQ of http://www.mobileaudio.com to find out more about wiring subs, crossovers, building boxes, etc. To much typing for me to do otherwise.
92TripleBlack
I won't comment on your amp b/c I don't know it (I have been out of the audio spec game for awhile). However, you will be better going w/ 2 8" subs than 1 10" as far as SPL b/c you will have more surface area. You will get more low end w/ the 10" though. Go w/ a dual voice coil sub if your amp cannot be bridged. This way you will get maximum power out of your amp to each sub. How many channels will you be running for you mids/highs off this amp? If only 2 channels for mids/highs, then definitely get 2 dual vc subs. :yesnod:
See my sig. I get great SPL down to 30 hertz. I love them. I will have pics posted soon.
I know the Amp will go to 2 ohm load per channel. Only reason I am looking to use this one is for the flexability with 6 channels. I am currently using a Orion HCCA 225 amp and running it at 2ohms stereo.. this is my current set-up:
Eclipse 5303
ORION 225HCCA amp
Fronts Infinity 510CS Components (5.25" and tweeter)
Rears Earthquake EQ6 6" midbass only
The rear way over power the highs in the front since I cannot split the gains or fade.
I was planning on swapping to the A/D/S Amp to run the following:
ORION HCCA 5s seperates in the front
the Infinity's in the rear
a set of subs..
I also could Bi-amp the HCCA 5s' but not sure if I will gain anything from that. if I Bi-amp them (run tweeters of one set of channels, 5.25" off of another set of channels) Then run the infinity's off the last set of channels i could then use my 225 HCCA to power one sub in mono.. Not sur e if I want 2 amps again in the car.. hard part is placing the amps.. and looking good since the amps don't match.
I wonder if the A/D/S would fit under the Passenger side power seat.. HMMM