Okay, I'm getting some wierd sounds from my rear speakers in my 99 FRC, and know the Bose is junk, so I'm thinking of just doing an upgrade.

This is what I have in mind:

- Alpine IDA-X001 head unit with vrumvrum mounting bracket (love my iPod, so I'm pretty set on this head unit) iPod will rest in center console.

- nice set of door component speakers

- good 5 1/4 rear coax speakers

- good 4 channel amp

Okay, here's where I need advice. I'm looking to spend under $2000 for everything installed. I use my trunk compartment all the time and am not willing to lose it for a sub. Also, I do not want to add much weight to the car. Is there a good amp & speaker setup that will net me clean, accurate bass (listen to Metal mostly, don't need HUGE bass) and keep me within my budget without needing a second amp and subwoofer?

Thank you,
Bill

 

There are a lot of great component sets that can give you some serious midbass output. And if they are a bit boomy, can sort of... give you a placebo sub effect. However, nothing beats having an actual subwoofer.

Here's the thing with bass.

I have the Dynaudio set in my car, roughly 330 watts each side. Parked, with the car off, and the doors heavily deadened, the bass is pretty insane for 6" drivers. Crossed over at 60hz.

In fact, if it always sounded like that, I probably wouldn't add a subwoofer.

But the problem is, as soon as I get out on the road, the noise kills the bass. So you really need a reinforced low end to get good bass, without having the stereo really cranked.

There is not a whole lot you can do about low frequency road noise. I've extensively deadened my car with butyl, liquid, and foam. But those long wavelengths are a bitch. Your best bet is drowning them out.


If you want the kick in your chest, you're simply just going to need a sub. If you want nice midbass punch, but not overbearing, a decent component set should help you out. And you're going to have to seriously deaden your doors for great bass output.

I'd like to know how much of an audiophile you are. CDT makes a set that supposedly has insane midbass, but I know it has a very soft midrange, and not very detailed highs.

Here is what I would do... In your situation.

I'd get a nice 150x4 amp, and bridge the rear channel to a decent 8" sub.
I'd put the 8" sub in the passenger rear compartment, in a fiberglass box.
I'd get some punchy components, like the Focal K2p Power series (mounting the tweeters to your pleasure may be a little rough unless you like bright sound.)


I'd forget all about the rear speakers. If a theatre set up though, I'd just get some cheapies, like infinity reference.

 

I have 3 ways in the door but I crossed them over a lil higher at 100 hz.....I can't listen to music without a sub, but thats just me.

 

100? do you have a 5" midbass?

 

Kale, thanks for the awesome reply!

When you say forget about the rear speakers, do you mean disconnect them or just use the stock Bose rears? Also, if I don't use the rears, could I get away with a 2 channel amp?

I'm not sure if I'd call myself an audiophile, but I'm close. My expertise is mostly with home theatre stuff, and I'm sort of out of the loop with the car audio stuff. A nice midrange punch from the components would probably be enough, but I do know how much a good subwoofer can add to the audio experience. It's just that I'd like to keep this as simple as possible.

I've heard good things about the Focals. I don't like too bright of a tweeter though, especially with some of the Judas Priest, etc that I listen to having some extremely high notes that can sound too harsh sometimes.

I'd love to see some pics of an 8" sub in the passenger rear compartment, I've never heard of anybody doing that before, but that would probably work out well.

How much weight would an entire setup like this add to the car?

 

In your situation, I'd go with a set of 6" JL subs in the doors along with a 4" component set. Run the subs from the rear channels, the comps from the front channel and the rear speakers (if you really feel you need them) from the head unit.

You'll get more punchy bass than you will from any component set out there and have a stealth install. In your zo6, if you don't have a power pass seat there are some 4 channel amps that will fit under there. I know the jl300/4 will.

 

That sounds like exactly what I'm looking for. Nope, no power seats in my car, that would be fantastic to hide the amp under the passenger seat.

What kind of sound deadening, etc would I have to add to the door panels for them not to rattle like crazy with that sort of setup?

Thanks!

 

If those subs will also run well for midbass duty, that would be a great set up. The only issue is the midrange being blocked by the door panel, which is not a huge issue. 6" will still have some issues playing really low with authority in a free air environment though. Especially since those have a 40hz res frequency and 7mm of excursion. But judging by your musical tastes, this won't be an issue.

fwiw, CDT M6 has 10mm of excursion, and is a more efficient driver. However fs is 50hz. So I wonder which one kicks more ***.

Focals might be a bit much for you, unless you want to fabricate new A-pillars for them.

Deadening... All of it. Liquid all over the inside of the panel, back it up with two layers of 45 mil butyl, do the inside of the door panel, the interior back wall, the back of the door card. Also fill all open areas of the door card with open cell foam. Throw some closed cell foam over the inner door panel.

Examples:




I still like the idea of heavy duty midbass 2 way set up front, with a single 8" sub in the rear.

The Alpine PDX 4.150 amp is tiny. Something like 10x9x2.5, and pumps out a ton of power. 150x2 for front, and 300x1 for rear. Its a tad expensive ~500. But well worth it.

I dont have a picture of a sub there, unfortunately. Can you work with fiberglass?

Unhook rear speakers entirely.

 

Everyone needs a sub:

 

Thanks Kale. Those pictures are of the door panels are great.

I can't work with fiberglass or anything for that matter! lol I'll be having a shop do the install work for me. So if that 8" rear sub setup will require a lot of custom work (ie:$$$), I may have to pass on that.

These pictures and details will be beyond helpful when I talk to them about my plans.

 

Too bad you aren't doing the install yourself. You could get _much_ nicer stuff not having to pay for labor. A shop would probably charge you $200-300 to put a sub there.

 

6.5 midbass 4 inch midrange....figured I'd let the sub handle everything low and let the doors scream, I'm one of those people that has the radio off or at 30 of 33....