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I have a '07 C6 coupe with Nav/Bose. I am not happy with the sound in the car. It sounds very muted; cymbals, brass have no life. No real base. I listen to classic rock like Blood, Sweat and Tears, Chicago, Doobie Bros, etc. I don't need decibles and I don't want base that shakes the car. I just want fidelity. My music is generally played through my Ipod through a Peripheral box using the XM channel.
I also want absolute stealth. NO component can be visible. I was considering adding an amp to run component speakers in the doors and leaving the BLOSE to run the center and rear speakers for fill.
I am looking for suggestions for the amp and amp placement. It must be invisible. Are there any amps that will fit in the cubby? If so, specific model numbers would be a big help.
Any other suggestions would be appreciated. I am just starting to plan the system, starting with the amp and placement.
Or, should I just skip the expense and play my Ipod through my E2c headphones
I noticed that the one you referenced is a 4 channel. Would you recommend this over a 2 channel? Would there be an advantage to using a 4 channel to drive the door component speakers?
I noticed that the one you referenced is a 4 channel. Would you recommend this over a 2 channel? Would there be an advantage to using a 4 channel to drive the door component speakers?
The advantage is if you want to run a sub at some point you have 2 channels to work with. I think there are some folks that have used them in active setups but you have to be a pretty serious tweaker to make those sound good.
I used a PDX-4.150 in my install last summer in my '06 vert and it's completely stealth. The amp BARELY fits to get the lid closed and you pinch the heck out of the connectors at the bottom, but it can be done. That said, I'm going to be un-doing it because I've decided that stealth is less important to me now than sound quality and the class D Alpine amp combined with the Focal kevlar speakers are a bit rough on the ears. I will be installing a different amp on a sled under the roof storage.
Anyway, here's a pic of my amp in the cubby, follow the link in my sig to my install thread the details the how-tos.
For the small size vs the power output it is hard to beat the Alpine pdx line of amps. I am putting 2 of them in my truck install. (4.150 and 1.600). For a clean system I would think that you could do a 7" midrange speaker and tweet in the door with a nice 2.150 amp and be pretty happy. What is your budget? Are you opposed to adding a sub?
For the small size vs the power output it is hard to beat the Alpine pdx line of amps. I am putting 2 of them in my truck install. (4.150 and 1.600). For a clean system I would think that you could do a 7" midrange speaker and tweet in the door with a nice 2.150 amp and be pretty happy. What is your budget? Are you opposed to adding a sub?
Fej
I would like to keep this stage to under $1500. I am not opposed to subs, but I would like to try to create a system that does not require one. I am trying to go stealth. I would consider a smaller sub/woofer if it could fit flush in one of the cubbies. I would rather purchase a multi-channel amp that I could add speakers to later, than a 2 channel now and a mono later.
What are the largest woofers that will fit the doors? What would you recommend for the 7" speakers?
The amp isnt causing the Focals to be rough on the ears. The Focal's install is causing them to be rough on the ears. The tweeter is very, very, very picky about where its put, and how its aimed. Moreso than any tweeter I've ever dealt with. My focals are smooth as silk crossfiring across the window. Get them just a touch off though, and htey hurt.
The advantage is if you want to run a sub at some point you have 2 channels to work with. I think there are some folks that have used them in active setups but you have to be a pretty serious tweaker to make those sound good.
I used a PDX-4.150 in my install last summer in my '06 vert and it's completely stealth. The amp BARELY fits to get the lid closed and you pinch the heck out of the connectors at the bottom, but it can be done. That said, I'm going to be un-doing it because I've decided that stealth is less important to me now than sound quality and the class D Alpine amp combined with the Focal kevlar speakers are a bit rough on the ears. I will be installing a different amp on a sled under the roof storage.
Anyway, here's a pic of my amp in the cubby, follow the link in my sig to my install thread the details the how-tos.
So does this mean that you will have a PDX for sale soon?????
The amp isnt causing the Focals to be rough on the ears. The Focal's install is causing them to be rough on the ears. The tweeter is very, very, very picky about where its put, and how its aimed. Moreso than any tweeter I've ever dealt with. My focals are smooth as silk crossfiring across the window. Get them just a touch off though, and htey hurt.
It's all part of the equation, yep. I'm getting ready to move my tweets to a different position as well.
Originally Posted by maj75
So does this mean that you will have a PDX for sale soon?????
Sorry, it's going into my Avalanche once I pull it from the C6. Just unpacked the box from Crutchfield with my new Alpine IVA-W205.
The great thing about PDX is the use of ICE technology. Allowing them to be somewhat more accurate than typical A/B amps, AND more efficient than typical Ds.
MB Quart Premium series, 6.5" components in the doors
Polk audio MM2082 8" sub in one cubby, replacing door w/ MDF
Alpine PDX-4.100 in thew other cubby.
If you jump in the car and crank the treble **** to full boost, then MB Quart is for you. What is too bad is that their midrange is usually pretty decent, but their tweeter is just so bright it ruins it But if that is your sound go for it. I like the 216qsd ( I think that is it) check around to see if you can pick them up cheap online.
Layout sounds cool .. contact NVTHIS about the cubby enclosure for the 8" sub he was making. 225w to an 8" sub however is not a lot of output just so you know, but it may be enough for you, certainly a ton more than stock blose has.
If it fits into your budget I would look at substituting the 4.150 myself as, with a proper tune you really cannot have TOO many watts IMO.
If you jump in the car and crank the treble **** to full boost, then MB Quart is for you. What is too bad is that their midrange is usually pretty decent, but their tweeter is just so bright it ruins it But if that is your sound go for it. I like the 216qsd ( I think that is it) check around to see if you can pick them up cheap online.
Layout sounds cool .. contact NVTHIS about the cubby enclosure for the 8" sub he was making. 225w to an 8" sub however is not a lot of output just so you know, but it may be enough for you, certainly a ton more than stock blose has.
If it fits into your budget I would look at substituting the 4.150 myself as, with a proper tune you really cannot have TOO many watts IMO.
G'luck
Fej
I agree, and headroom is awesome for so many reasons. You can always turn gains down. You can't turn 'em up past a certain point.
If you jump in the car and crank the treble **** to full boost, then MB Quart is for you. What is too bad is that their midrange is usually pretty decent, but their tweeter is just so bright it ruins it But if that is your sound go for it. I like the 216qsd ( I think that is it) check around to see if you can pick them up cheap online.
Layout sounds cool .. contact NVTHIS about the cubby enclosure for the 8" sub he was making. 225w to an 8" sub however is not a lot of output just so you know, but it may be enough for you, certainly a ton more than stock blose has.
If it fits into your budget I would look at substituting the 4.150 myself as, with a proper tune you really cannot have TOO many watts IMO.
G'luck
Fej
Originally Posted by Kale
I agree, and headroom is awesome for so many reasons. You can always turn gains down. You can't turn 'em up past a certain point.
all around there.
I haven't heard them myself, but the Elemental Designs 6.5" component sets sure have good word of mouth and their price is tough to beat. I'm a Focal guy so I'll toss in a nod for the 165V1 components as well.
A lot to go into here but Kicker Makes an 8" midbass that fits nicely in the doors of a C6 with a mounting plate of some sort.
I fabbed my plates out of 3/4 MDF and dropped them right in.
Lose the ridiculous "lily" shaped grill guards and you are left with a waffle weave composite cone on rubber surrounds. Ive got mine band passed between 50Hz and about 290Hz so they help with the bass and the low crunch from electric guitars
They have a tweeter\crossover set that can be paired with the MB8 but Ive never heard them played so I cannot endorse.
A lot to go into here but Kicker Makes an 8" midbass that fits nicely in the doors of a C6 with a mounting plate of some sort.
I fabbed my plates out of 3/4 MDF and dropped them right in.
Lose the ridiculous "lily" shaped grill guards and you are left with a waffle weave composite cone on rubber surrounds. Ive got mine band passed between 50Hz and about 290Hz so they help with the bass and the low crunch from electric guitars
They have a tweeter\crossover set that can be paired with the MB8 but Ive never heard them played so I cannot endorse.
Have you heard MB quartz before? If you like thin-sounding shrill and harsh, they're a good bet.
Also, Pioneer makes ICE amps, and so does eclipse. dont remember the dimensions though...
I had a 6.5 component set in a Miata, and had no problem with the tweeters. This was 5 years ago and I do not recall which model they were, but I paid about $325 for the set.
I looked at a small Pioneer amp 4 by 100 which was small enough to fit in the cubby, but they did not have anything more powerfull than 100w per channel in that design.
I had a 6.5 component set in a Miata, and had no problem with the tweeters. This was 5 years ago and I do not recall which model they were, but I paid about $325 for the set.
I looked at a small Pioneer amp 4 by 100 which was small enough to fit in the cubby, but they did not have anything more powerfull than 100w per channel in that design.
100W per channel into a set of components is a nice amount of power so don't dismiss it strictly on that criteria. Remember takes double the power to get 3db so the difference between 100W and 150W ain't really all that much in terms of volume. 100W into the kinds of speakers you'll be looking at will produce some serious db's so I'd let my ears decide between the amps, buy whichever one sounds better to you.
Also keep in mind that a number of these guys run active crossover networks so they look at amplification a bit differently.
For the rest of the spectrum I used an Alpine component set with the mid in the factory location (long story) and the tweet at the base of the windshield pillar.
I know that blows your stealth so I would also add that there is plenty of room under the factory grill around the "10" to surface mount a tweeter and still have the grill clear. It might bring the soundstage down into the doors a little bit, but with the right aiming and measuring, you could probably get decent sound out of it.
As for power, one side of a JL audio 300/4 runs the 8"s and the other runs the component. Mines a vert so no problems "stealthing" my amps in the trunk. They dont play super low, but they sound good and shake the **** out of my mirrors, which is nice if you are into that.
So far my only problem with the Kickers has been over driving them. They get a lot of air to work with in my giant door cavity so they dont get much dampening. Bass below 50Hz can over extend them at volume so Ive tried to be very precise with my levels and crossover points