Sombody help me out.
The components from Edesign;for the tweets is black pos and black and white neg? Do the wires from the component and tweet go straight to the crossover and then the amp runs to the input +/- on the crossover?

Also, the Edesign sub has 2 sets of speaker inputs; I assume that I run both sets of Amp 2 (L+/- and R+/-) to the sub?

One more....
The amp power cable (4 gage) looks to big to fit into the ends of the in line fuse going to the battery. Do I remove the little barrel looking thing from the fuse case and just put the tightening screw right up against the 4 gage?

Thanks in advance for help with my novice questions.

 

If you tried to call me tonite I apologize, I got a message that someone called but my brother was all confused and I didnt want to call a number back at 2 am
Tweeter - black and white is positive

The woofe and tweeter run to the crossover and then crossover to amp

You sub is a dual 2 correct and you are running it off of a 4 channel amp bridged? If so you take a short piece of wire and go from one plus terminal to the negative terminal on the opposite side. Then connect the amp to the remaining two terminals

 

Yea, that was me. So on the sub I run a wire from + on one set of inputs to - on the other. Then from that set I go to the speaker terminal inside the box. Then on the outside of the box, I connect from the +/- to the amp, right? So on the sub one of the sets of speaker terminals will have 2 wires on the - post? On the amp do I connect to L+ and R-?

Also, where is a good gound point. The bolts that hold the seats down look like they have a layer of fiberglass or plastic around them.

I've got the car torn apart tonight, I may need to ask some more questions tomorrow.

Ted

 

Ted
The seat bolts are a good grounding point. Dont worry.

Bridging the channels on the amp depends on what the amp recommends. Check your manual or it might say it on the amp itself.


you are correct on the sub wiring part

 

I assume I can cut down the amp grounding cable for a short run?

 

Do you mean, just make the cable shorter? You can cut it to length as you need.

 

Yes, Exactly. Thanks, thats what I thought. I'm getting closer. This is a lot of work. The subthump box does not fit as nicely as I thought it would... Not very snug and even. Who makes a cover to protect my sub when I need to store stuff in the trunk?

I'm about ready to mount the amp behind the passenger seat.

 

the boxes are hit or miss with the fitment. Some have to remove some carpet and some don't to make it fit snug. There really isnt a cover for the sub. You can use the stock center compartment cover and cut a whole in it, or cut the whole in it and have speaker grill cloth sewn in. Stay patient and you'll be done before you know it

 

How the heck do you snake the RCA's up to the back of the head unit???

 

on the passenger side there is room between the tunnel and the radio bezel trim. if you remove the passenger side carpet you will have plenty of room to snake the wiring.

 

Someone please clarify, one more time. I have Edesigns getting ready to be installed also. Have not even opened the box yet. I dont think CAdryheat re-stated it correctly, but I dont know.

He thinks there will be two wires coming off of one - terminal on the sub. So, to clarify, is this drawing I did correct? If not, let me know, and Ill draw it correctly.

 

swchopper, you are correct. Re-reading that post I dont think he stated it right, but good drawing to make sure its right.

 

good, that will help me also. So now a dumb question. Why does the sub have two inputs?

 

its for the dual voice coil. Why there is another voice coil, haven't a clue. I think its to have a little more flexibility with the ohm wiring and what not. I am probably wrong though

 

DPG is right on the money!

Dual voice coil subs can be used in many different types of applications.

Old school: If you had an amp that didn't have a 'bridged mono' input, you could run separate left and right inputs into it. That also came in handy for applications where you need a sub, but have limited space. You could run one sub, but both signals for a mixed output.

It was also a popular option for the old school 'cheater' high current amps. You could run one amp for your whole system that was "low power" rated, and use passive components to make crossovers and divide the signal between your sub, mids, and highs. For example: an Orion 225 HCCA could run 2 channels at 25 watts at 4 ohms. Run two sets of mains for a 2 ohm load, and you pulled 50 per channel out of it. You could also run a DVC sub at 2 ohms bridged for 200 watts, or two DVC subs for 1 ohm bridged at 400 watts... but you still fell into the "50 watts and under" class.

DVC subs of today are mainly used to draw as much current out of an amp as possible. Some of the newer amps can handle lower impedance loads, and can push all kinds of power. DVC subs give you quite a bit of flexibility when it comes to the overall impedance and power output. It really comes down to the application... how much power, how many drivers... then choose accordingly.

Hope this helps.

Mark

 

The drawing is correct. I actually had it wrong in my description. Penta set me straight. I finally finished my install. It took me 2 1/5 days..... Lot's of time spent trying to figure out basic things that are not in the instructions....

Sounds great. Didn't get my Humount kit in time so I used a cheap GM face plate. I'll get to "redo" the console teardown when the kit comes in.

Many thanks to DPG and Penta for their help. Great selection of system components from Penta.

Pioneer 7800-mp, ED 12" sub, ED components, Kicker 650, and plenty of E-Dead.

 

Great to hear. The first time is always the longest because you are running new cable for everything and learning your car. All depends on what you are doing overall. Once you get your HU mount post up some pics of your install.