A Simple C3 Stereo System !!!
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 130
Likes: 1
From: Wylie TX
D_boy, great paper full of good advice. Do you have recommendation on where to route the RCA cables, speaker wire, amp power wire etc. I have been thinking about the layout for the system I want to install, but there are many option for routing these wires, and I am somewhat inexperienced with the special issues a vette install might offer.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
D_boy, great paper full of good advice. Do you have recommendation on where to route the RCA cables, speaker wire, amp power wire etc. I have been thinking about the layout for the system I want to install, but there are many option for routing these wires, and I am somewhat inexperienced with the special issues a vette install might offer.
Thanks so much for the compliments guys.
Well, most people mount the amp/s in the back so routing the power and ground is king of up to location. Short as possible for the ground, make it the same gauge as the power wire, and keep a fuse as close to the battery as possible.
For the RCAs and remote wire, and speaker wires...either up along under the sill plates or take apart the center console and run all the wires along over the trans hump.
If you can, separate the signal wires from the power wires. Meaning, you don't want the RCAs and the speaker wires to be bundled together if you can help it.
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Pro
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 708
Likes: 66
From: New Franklin, OH
Thanks so much for the compliments guys.
Well, most people mount the amp/s in the back so routing the power and ground is king of up to location. Short as possible for the ground, make it the same gauge as the power wire, and keep a fuse as close to the battery as possible.
For the RCAs and remote wire, and speaker wires...either up along under the sill plates or take apart the center console and run all the wires along over the trans hump.
If you can, separate the signal wires from the power wires. Meaning, you don't want the RCAs and the speaker wires to be bundled together if you can help it.
Well, most people mount the amp/s in the back so routing the power and ground is king of up to location. Short as possible for the ground, make it the same gauge as the power wire, and keep a fuse as close to the battery as possible.
For the RCAs and remote wire, and speaker wires...either up along under the sill plates or take apart the center console and run all the wires along over the trans hump.
If you can, separate the signal wires from the power wires. Meaning, you don't want the RCAs and the speaker wires to be bundled together if you can help it.
Since you are such a wizard on these installations, I have a question that you might be able to help me with:
When I turn OFF my wipers, I hear a cracking noise in my speakers, so they are getting some interference somewhere. I don't hear it when I turn them ON.
I tried to install it all correct, head-unit powered directly from the battery over a fuse, 2 amps in the back, both power and ground from battery, RCA cables over the center console, speaker wires under right sill plate, antenna wires under the left sill plate...
I thought the problem was that the headunit ground was hooked up to a ground on the dash, but I tried hooking it up to the battery directly as well, same result, still the noise when turning off the wipers.
I don't hear anything when turn-signals are used, engine revving,....
Any clue what this might be ?
Thanks anyway, Sonny
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Hey Durango, great write-up!
Since you are such a wizard on these installations, I have a question that you might be able to help me with:
When I turn OFF my wipers, I hear a cracking noise in my speakers, so they are getting some interference somewhere. I don't hear it when I turn them ON.
I tried to install it all correct, head-unit powered directly from the battery over a fuse, 2 amps in the back, both power and ground from battery, RCA cables over the center console, speaker wires under right sill plate, antenna wires under the left sill plate...
I thought the problem was that the headunit ground was hooked up to a ground on the dash, but I tried hooking it up to the battery directly as well, same result, still the noise when turning off the wipers.
I don't hear anything when turn-signals are used, engine revving,....
Any clue what this might be ?
Thanks anyway, Sonny
Since you are such a wizard on these installations, I have a question that you might be able to help me with:
When I turn OFF my wipers, I hear a cracking noise in my speakers, so they are getting some interference somewhere. I don't hear it when I turn them ON.
I tried to install it all correct, head-unit powered directly from the battery over a fuse, 2 amps in the back, both power and ground from battery, RCA cables over the center console, speaker wires under right sill plate, antenna wires under the left sill plate...
I thought the problem was that the headunit ground was hooked up to a ground on the dash, but I tried hooking it up to the battery directly as well, same result, still the noise when turning off the wipers.
I don't hear anything when turn-signals are used, engine revving,....
Any clue what this might be ?
Thanks anyway, Sonny
Okay, so you eliminated the head unit's power and ground as suspect because they were both routed to the battery. The only wire left to question is the IGN wire that tells the head unit when the key is on.
To run a simple test, gather a stretch of wire with a simple toggle switch in line. Connect the IGN wire from the head unit to the battery with this switched wire OFF. Then when it's all hooked up flip that switch. It should power up like you started the car. Then turn your wipers on and off and see if that solves the interference problem.
See, your IGN circuit has a yellow wire that ties into the wiper motor. I have a feeling when the wiper motor is turned off your getting feedback through that IGN wire.
You may have to run an IGN relay, powered by the battery, and TRIGGERED by the IGN wire. That will give you the IGN power from the battery and only a signal from the original IGN wire.
Just a thought.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7,201
Likes: 0
From: DP(oh you know where) IL
St. Jude Donor '06
great paper and very much needed for the c3 crowd. One thing I would add is maybe upgrading the electrical connections between all of these components. The big 3 basically. Im sure the c3 could use an upgrade in that department as well. otherwise great write up. great job man
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
great paper and very much needed for the c3 crowd. One thing I would add is maybe upgrading the electrical connections between all of these components. The big 3 basically. Im sure the c3 could use an upgrade in that department as well. otherwise great write up. great job man
Great suggestion and thanks for the compliment.
Just so everyone is on the same page, the big 3 is just wiring upgrades.
1: Battery Ground Cable
2: Engine / Frame Ground Cable
3: Alternator to Battery Power Cable
When upgrading an alternator it's always a good idea to either replace the factory power wire to the battery or install a piggy back wire outside of the factory looming. This is important in case the factory power wire is not sufficient for the increased output.
Also important is grounding, as always, in any car's electrical system. After three decades the ground points are going to be old and rusty or corroded and it's a good idea to replace the cables with OFC cable and make sure all the connection points are clean and secure.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7,201
Likes: 0
From: DP(oh you know where) IL
St. Jude Donor '06
Great suggestion and thanks for the compliment.
Just so everyone is on the same page, the big 3 is just wiring upgrades.
1: Battery Ground Cable
2: Engine / Frame Ground Cable
3: Alternator to Battery Power Cable
When upgrading an alternator it's always a good idea to either replace the factory power wire to the battery or install a piggy back wire outside of the factory looming. This is important in case the factory power wire is not sufficient for the increased output.
Also important is grounding, as always, in any car's electrical system. After three decades the ground points are going to be old and rusty or corroded and it's a good idea to replace the cables with OFC cable and make sure all the connection points are clean and secure.
Just so everyone is on the same page, the big 3 is just wiring upgrades.
1: Battery Ground Cable
2: Engine / Frame Ground Cable
3: Alternator to Battery Power Cable
When upgrading an alternator it's always a good idea to either replace the factory power wire to the battery or install a piggy back wire outside of the factory looming. This is important in case the factory power wire is not sufficient for the increased output.
Also important is grounding, as always, in any car's electrical system. After three decades the ground points are going to be old and rusty or corroded and it's a good idea to replace the cables with OFC cable and make sure all the connection points are clean and secure.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 708
Likes: 66
From: New Franklin, OH
Okay, so you eliminated the head unit's power and ground as suspect because they were both routed to the battery. The only wire left to question is the IGN wire that tells the head unit when the key is on.
To run a simple test, gather a stretch of wire with a simple toggle switch in line. Connect the IGN wire from the head unit to the battery with this switched wire OFF. Then when it's all hooked up flip that switch. It should power up like you started the car. Then turn your wipers on and off and see if that solves the interference problem.
See, your IGN circuit has a yellow wire that ties into the wiper motor. I have a feeling when the wiper motor is turned off your getting feedback through that IGN wire.
You may have to run an IGN relay, powered by the battery, and TRIGGERED by the IGN wire. That will give you the IGN power from the battery and only a signal from the original IGN wire.
Just a thought.
To run a simple test, gather a stretch of wire with a simple toggle switch in line. Connect the IGN wire from the head unit to the battery with this switched wire OFF. Then when it's all hooked up flip that switch. It should power up like you started the car. Then turn your wipers on and off and see if that solves the interference problem.
See, your IGN circuit has a yellow wire that ties into the wiper motor. I have a feeling when the wiper motor is turned off your getting feedback through that IGN wire.
You may have to run an IGN relay, powered by the battery, and TRIGGERED by the IGN wire. That will give you the IGN power from the battery and only a signal from the original IGN wire.
Just a thought.
Sonny
