Custom Ammeter install in C5
Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,995
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
St. Jude Donor '08
Custom Ammeter install in C5
This turned out to be one of the easier installations I've done taking about 2 hours including setup/cleanup. This process is specific for C5 vettes, but can be used on similar ways on many other generations.
There aren't many digital ammeters for automotive use on the market. I ended up using this one built by American Bass:
First I had to find a mounting spot. Since the meter is designed to be inline, I had to find a convienent place that was out of the way AND happened to be on the route of my main power wire. Thankfully (and by pure dumb luck) the Capacitor setup required the main power wire to me routed over the tunnel. The palstic section just behind the console storage door was the perfect place.
I decided to remove the American Bass logo and paint it black using a technique that gave it a smoked look:
Tools I used:
- Electric drill and 5/8" drill bit
- Dremel tool with cutoff wheels and Sanding bits
- Painters tape (or masking tape)
- Sharpie
- Various screwdrivers and rachet set for lifting the center console.
- scissors
Step 1: I used paperboard to outline the shape of the meter case and used painters tape on the section that I planned to mount on:
Step 2: I secured the stencil in the center of the mounting area.
Step 3: then using a sharpie i traced the stencil. This process prevents over cutting and leaving hidious gaps in the plastic.
Step 4: Since there were wires under this piece, I unbolted storage console and lifted it using a makeshift brace roll of duct tape (not seen in picture) Then using a dremel cutoff wheel, I cut along the streight lines and left plenty of room around the Curves:
Step 5: After removing the big chunk, I used the dremel 1/4" fine grit sander to trim the curved sections and streighten out the rough cuts:
Step 6: I eyeballed and drilled 2 holes on either side of the ammeter for the wires ro run through. While KOL4 wire isn't exactly the size of any drillbit i have, that's nothing the dremel sander can't solve. I also installed the bottom part of the meter through the bottom of the plastic:
Step 7: The final step was to strip the wires and secure them to the Meter. This was easier said than done and in hindsight, I would have moved the holes for the wires about half an inch outward so the bend wouldn't have to be so tight. I ended up forcing the wire into submission with a pair of locking needlenose and a dowel rod (not pictured) The cover sits in such a way that it squeezes the mounting plastic securing the entire unit.
I would have taken a better picture but it was freaking hot outside.
Installation notes: My power wire setup is typical for people with amp racks and amps mounted behnd the driver's seat. For people with amps mounted elsewhere, there are ammeters with shunt resistors that have a remote moniter so the display can be mounted away from the power wire.
okay, on to the Snafu: the install went very well so somthing was bound to go wrong. in this case the freaking electronics took a dump. For about 5 seconds, I got a reading of 13.5 volts and zero amps with the system running. Immidiatly thereafter, both screens went blank. I contacted the person I bought the meter from and American bass for tech advice. Thusfar both have been accomidating and I should be getting replacement electronics in about a week. I will take additional pics once the electronics are up.
There aren't many digital ammeters for automotive use on the market. I ended up using this one built by American Bass:
First I had to find a mounting spot. Since the meter is designed to be inline, I had to find a convienent place that was out of the way AND happened to be on the route of my main power wire. Thankfully (and by pure dumb luck) the Capacitor setup required the main power wire to me routed over the tunnel. The palstic section just behind the console storage door was the perfect place.
I decided to remove the American Bass logo and paint it black using a technique that gave it a smoked look:
Tools I used:
- Electric drill and 5/8" drill bit
- Dremel tool with cutoff wheels and Sanding bits
- Painters tape (or masking tape)
- Sharpie
- Various screwdrivers and rachet set for lifting the center console.
- scissors
Step 1: I used paperboard to outline the shape of the meter case and used painters tape on the section that I planned to mount on:
Step 2: I secured the stencil in the center of the mounting area.
Step 3: then using a sharpie i traced the stencil. This process prevents over cutting and leaving hidious gaps in the plastic.
Step 4: Since there were wires under this piece, I unbolted storage console and lifted it using a makeshift brace roll of duct tape (not seen in picture) Then using a dremel cutoff wheel, I cut along the streight lines and left plenty of room around the Curves:
Step 5: After removing the big chunk, I used the dremel 1/4" fine grit sander to trim the curved sections and streighten out the rough cuts:
Step 6: I eyeballed and drilled 2 holes on either side of the ammeter for the wires ro run through. While KOL4 wire isn't exactly the size of any drillbit i have, that's nothing the dremel sander can't solve. I also installed the bottom part of the meter through the bottom of the plastic:
Step 7: The final step was to strip the wires and secure them to the Meter. This was easier said than done and in hindsight, I would have moved the holes for the wires about half an inch outward so the bend wouldn't have to be so tight. I ended up forcing the wire into submission with a pair of locking needlenose and a dowel rod (not pictured) The cover sits in such a way that it squeezes the mounting plastic securing the entire unit.
I would have taken a better picture but it was freaking hot outside.
Installation notes: My power wire setup is typical for people with amp racks and amps mounted behnd the driver's seat. For people with amps mounted elsewhere, there are ammeters with shunt resistors that have a remote moniter so the display can be mounted away from the power wire.
okay, on to the Snafu: the install went very well so somthing was bound to go wrong. in this case the freaking electronics took a dump. For about 5 seconds, I got a reading of 13.5 volts and zero amps with the system running. Immidiatly thereafter, both screens went blank. I contacted the person I bought the meter from and American bass for tech advice. Thusfar both have been accomidating and I should be getting replacement electronics in about a week. I will take additional pics once the electronics are up.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,572
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles Ca
good job man. If i were you; to keep things looking clean, I'd add some of those plastic gromments where the wires are coming through the plastic, that should give it a real nice finished look.
keep up the good work man. now you need a gauge to monitor the ammeter to make sure it's working!
's
keep up the good work man. now you need a gauge to monitor the ammeter to make sure it's working!
's
Thread Starter
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,995
Likes: 2
From: Spring Texas
St. Jude Donor '08
Apparently my amp/voltmeter has been discontinued due to quality problems. The company that makes it (americabassusa.com) was kind enough to send me a complementary new fused model (like the one here)
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-0-Digital-ANL-...QQcmdZViewItem
Unfortionatly it's not the same size as the one I have ...which means more cutting
The good news is I have to tear into my dash again anyway to get to my remote turn on switch so i can have tunes without the car being turned on. Most likely a good project for Sunday afternoon.
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-0-Digital-ANL-...QQcmdZViewItem
Unfortionatly it's not the same size as the one I have ...which means more cutting
The good news is I have to tear into my dash again anyway to get to my remote turn on switch so i can have tunes without the car being turned on. Most likely a good project for Sunday afternoon.
