Feedback on my C6 plans
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 354
Likes: 9
From: Austin Tx
Feedback on my C6 plans
Hello all,
I'm about to finish collecting up the parts and pieces to do an install in my C6 coupe, and I thought I would run my plans by everyone here to solicit any feedback, tell me if I'm headed down any wrong paths, etc...
Here is the equipment I'm planning to use:
To go along with these pieces, I'm also planning to pick up the following accessories:
Ok, now on to my plan...
I will install the head unit along with the Peripheral components to keep the chime and on-star capabilities of my car intact (1SB car with Bose and Onstar). I don't plan to use the stock Bose amp or components, so I will remove them.
I am going to wire up the rear channel head unit outputs and run wires to the rear speaker areas. At this point, I have not decided for certain whether I will actually run the rears, but I want to get the wiring in place while I have it all apart. The Alpine choice was based on a local shop's recommendation, I'm by no means tied to those if there is a better choice.
I hope to mount the PDX in the right rear cubby. I'm going to bridge 2 channels to drive whatever sub I end up with, and the other 2 will run to the front components.
I was thinking about mounting the crossovers in the same cubby and running 2 sets of wires up to each door. That would make tweaking the crossovers a little easier as well as alleviate any concern about moisture in the doors. Anything I should be worried about with that choice?
For the sub, I think the PDX bridged should be more than plenty to drive it.
I contemplated a JL amp instead (either the 300/4 or the 450/4), but I'm hoping to mount the PDX in the cubby which isn't possible with the JL's. From what I've read here, these amps seem to have about equal number of supporters.
I will run the RCA's, amp control, and rear speaker wires from the HU down the top of the tunnel, then across to the right, and finally behind all the interior to the rear cubby. I will run the power wire to the amp down the right side sill area. And I'll run the new speaker wires back up the right side, crossing the drivers' wires over the middle and to the left sill.
I read somewhere about needing a speaker for the On-star incoming audio. Do the Peripheral devices remove that need and integrate the audio into the HU like they do for the chimes, or is there something else I may need to do?
Ok, I think that's most of the highlights. I do have a few other questions if anyone knows the answers...
Questions:
Ok, that's about enough for now. I appreciate all the tips I have already found here, thanx everyone for sharing!
I'm about to finish collecting up the parts and pieces to do an install in my C6 coupe, and I thought I would run my plans by everyone here to solicit any feedback, tell me if I'm headed down any wrong paths, etc...
Here is the equipment I'm planning to use:
- Kenwood DNX7100 with GXM30 (XM radio), KCA-BT100 (Bluetooth), and KCA-IP300V (iPod integration)
- Focal K2 Power series front components (either the 165 K2P or KF)
- Alpine SPR-13C coaxial speakers (optional)
- Alpine PDX 4.150 amp
- JL Stealthbox (or if I get any response from him, I am considering Audio Dave's enclosure. Anyone know what's up with Dave?)
To go along with these pieces, I'm also planning to pick up the following accessories:
- Peripheral GMAH24B
- Peripheral GMAHCM
- Pipedream's Component speaker mounts
- Antenna adapter
- 4AWG power conductor / Fuse kit
- 2 sets of RCAs 16-feet
- 16G speaker wire
Ok, now on to my plan...
I will install the head unit along with the Peripheral components to keep the chime and on-star capabilities of my car intact (1SB car with Bose and Onstar). I don't plan to use the stock Bose amp or components, so I will remove them.
I am going to wire up the rear channel head unit outputs and run wires to the rear speaker areas. At this point, I have not decided for certain whether I will actually run the rears, but I want to get the wiring in place while I have it all apart. The Alpine choice was based on a local shop's recommendation, I'm by no means tied to those if there is a better choice.
I hope to mount the PDX in the right rear cubby. I'm going to bridge 2 channels to drive whatever sub I end up with, and the other 2 will run to the front components.
I was thinking about mounting the crossovers in the same cubby and running 2 sets of wires up to each door. That would make tweaking the crossovers a little easier as well as alleviate any concern about moisture in the doors. Anything I should be worried about with that choice?
For the sub, I think the PDX bridged should be more than plenty to drive it.
I contemplated a JL amp instead (either the 300/4 or the 450/4), but I'm hoping to mount the PDX in the cubby which isn't possible with the JL's. From what I've read here, these amps seem to have about equal number of supporters. I will run the RCA's, amp control, and rear speaker wires from the HU down the top of the tunnel, then across to the right, and finally behind all the interior to the rear cubby. I will run the power wire to the amp down the right side sill area. And I'll run the new speaker wires back up the right side, crossing the drivers' wires over the middle and to the left sill.
I read somewhere about needing a speaker for the On-star incoming audio. Do the Peripheral devices remove that need and integrate the audio into the HU like they do for the chimes, or is there something else I may need to do?
Ok, I think that's most of the highlights. I do have a few other questions if anyone knows the answers...
Questions:
- Is there anything else I need besides what comes with the DNX to mount the unit? I haven't seen reference to anyone using a kit to do this install, hopefully I didn't miss anything.
- Thoughts on the Alpine choice for the coaxials? Any concerns about running those from the HU itself?
- Where is a good point to run the amp ground in the right rear area?
- Any concern about mounting the crossovers in the rear cubby?
- Anyone have any tips for removing the panels which cover the rear speakers? When I did my insulation kit, I didn't pull those (tried, but didn't have a lot of luck and thankfully didn't have to). Seems the hatch shocks will have to come off, but even still, whatever holds those panels in place didn't want to let loose easily...
Ok, that's about enough for now. I appreciate all the tips I have already found here, thanx everyone for sharing!
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,973
Likes: 55
From: OIB North Carolina
St. Jude Donor '06
Your questions:
Questions:
* Is there anything else I need besides what comes with the DNX to mount the unit? I haven't seen reference to anyone using a kit to do this install, hopefully I didn't miss anything.
Answer: Yes you will need one of the metra double din kits to mount the DNX, there is no other way. Also you will need the GM antenna adapter as the GM is much smaller that the DNX's (and every ones elses on the planet!)
Metra Kit - GM MULTI KIT 04-UP part number 99-3304
Antenna - Metra Electronics Corp. 40-GM10
* Thoughts on the Alpine choice for the coaxials? Any concerns about running those from the HU itself?
Answer: No, a lot of people do that...
* Where is a good point to run the amp ground in the right rear area?
Answer: I actually used the rear seat bolt to ground, but there is some metal in the back center you can try...
* Any concern about mounting the crossovers in the rear cubby?
Answer: I did mount mine in the door (no moisture issues) however that sounds like a good idea.
* Anyone have any tips for removing the panels which cover the rear speakers? When I did my insulation kit, I didn't pull those (tried, but didn't have a lot of luck and thankfully didn't have to). Seems the hatch shocks will have to come off, but even still, whatever holds those panels in place didn't want to let loose easily...
Removing the rear covers is pretty straight forward, First prop up the hatch so that there is no tension on the lifts, With a screwdriver you can move the spring clip and the lift will pop off the ball. Then there are 4 plastic pins the need to be popped out. then just pull out the cover out from the bottom. Remove the speakers, Connect the new speakers
Hope this helps!
* Is there anything else I need besides what comes with the DNX to mount the unit? I haven't seen reference to anyone using a kit to do this install, hopefully I didn't miss anything.
Answer: Yes you will need one of the metra double din kits to mount the DNX, there is no other way. Also you will need the GM antenna adapter as the GM is much smaller that the DNX's (and every ones elses on the planet!)
Metra Kit - GM MULTI KIT 04-UP part number 99-3304
Antenna - Metra Electronics Corp. 40-GM10
* Thoughts on the Alpine choice for the coaxials? Any concerns about running those from the HU itself?
Answer: No, a lot of people do that...
* Where is a good point to run the amp ground in the right rear area?
Answer: I actually used the rear seat bolt to ground, but there is some metal in the back center you can try...
* Any concern about mounting the crossovers in the rear cubby?
Answer: I did mount mine in the door (no moisture issues) however that sounds like a good idea.
* Anyone have any tips for removing the panels which cover the rear speakers? When I did my insulation kit, I didn't pull those (tried, but didn't have a lot of luck and thankfully didn't have to). Seems the hatch shocks will have to come off, but even still, whatever holds those panels in place didn't want to let loose easily...
Removing the rear covers is pretty straight forward, First prop up the hatch so that there is no tension on the lifts, With a screwdriver you can move the spring clip and the lift will pop off the ball. Then there are 4 plastic pins the need to be popped out. then just pull out the cover out from the bottom. Remove the speakers, Connect the new speakers
Hope this helps!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 354
Likes: 9
From: Austin Tx
I love this forum! Thank you for the answers!
Hmm, somehow I missed references to that from other installs, but I had a feeling. Glad I asked!
Sounds like a good spot. Hope my kit has enough ground wire.
Ok, guess I didn't pull hard enough. Removal of the rest of the pieces was pretty straightforward, so I'll give this a try.
Immensely, THANX!
Answer: Yes you will need one of the metra double din kits to mount the DNX, there is no other way. Also you will need the GM antenna adapter as the GM is much smaller that the DNX's (and every ones elses on the planet!)
Metra Kit - GM MULTI KIT 04-UP part number 99-3304
Antenna - Metra Electronics Corp. 40-GM10
Metra Kit - GM MULTI KIT 04-UP part number 99-3304
Antenna - Metra Electronics Corp. 40-GM10
Removing the rear covers is pretty straight forward, First prop up the hatch so that there is no tension on the lifts, With a screwdriver you can move the spring clip and the lift will pop off the ball. Then there are 4 plastic pins the need to be popped out. then just pull out the cover out from the bottom. Remove the speakers, Connect the new speakers
Immensely, THANX!
Racer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 261
Likes: 4
From: CLT NC
Besides the tips posted above, here are a couple of others. I just finished my install today so everything is still fresh in my head.
-- With the DNX7100 you do NOT need to tap into the VSS wire. (that is a good thing!)
-- Here is a simple way to tap into the reverse wire: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1826458
-- Be sure you don't crimp/cut/bend your GPS antenna wire. It was my understanding that they are fiber optic and can only bend to a certain degree. Any excess you have needs to be wrapped properly. I coiled & ziptied the wire and stashed it in the passenger footwell.
-- Since you are removing your Bose amp, you can use that space to put things there. I used it for my XM radio interface unit and also put my crossovers for the component speakers. That way they are not in the doors and out of the way. Plus, this still leaves your rear cubby hole free.
-- To save your grommet in your door panel when installing the tweeter, I drilled a small hole in the woofer baffle. This let me easily run the wire up to the tweeter.
-- Be sure to ziptie your speaker wires when inside the door so they don't get hung on the window mechanism. There is a bundle of wire running down that you can attach too.
-- Also be sure to leave some slack in your door speaker wires so the door open/close with no problems.
-- While you have the woofer off, you can install some dynamat sound damping on the door panel behind the woofer. I did this, plus also put a sheet of dynamat on the back of my woofer baffle itself. I finished the damping by putting a left over piece of cowboy insulation down on the left end of the door, in the indented space on the door panel. You will be surprised at the sound difference.
-- Here's an easy way to hold your rear lid up while you remove the shocks, just use a rachet tie strap. It works great, b/c you can hoist it up and down in increments. This comes in handy when you are trying to put the gas shocks back on. Plus, with the ties, you don't have to worry about knocking the wood prop over and shattering your rear glass.
-- For your OnStar speaker, just use the center dash speaker which will get hooked up to the GMAH24B. You only need one speaker for your OnStar. You can put a new speaker there, or just use the one already there. I did something different, and ended putting my GPS & XM antenna in that spot instead. Here's a link to Nomad's write-up which helped me out.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1518095
Good Luck
-- With the DNX7100 you do NOT need to tap into the VSS wire. (that is a good thing!)
-- Here is a simple way to tap into the reverse wire: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1826458
-- Be sure you don't crimp/cut/bend your GPS antenna wire. It was my understanding that they are fiber optic and can only bend to a certain degree. Any excess you have needs to be wrapped properly. I coiled & ziptied the wire and stashed it in the passenger footwell.
-- Since you are removing your Bose amp, you can use that space to put things there. I used it for my XM radio interface unit and also put my crossovers for the component speakers. That way they are not in the doors and out of the way. Plus, this still leaves your rear cubby hole free.
-- To save your grommet in your door panel when installing the tweeter, I drilled a small hole in the woofer baffle. This let me easily run the wire up to the tweeter.
-- Be sure to ziptie your speaker wires when inside the door so they don't get hung on the window mechanism. There is a bundle of wire running down that you can attach too.
-- Also be sure to leave some slack in your door speaker wires so the door open/close with no problems.
-- While you have the woofer off, you can install some dynamat sound damping on the door panel behind the woofer. I did this, plus also put a sheet of dynamat on the back of my woofer baffle itself. I finished the damping by putting a left over piece of cowboy insulation down on the left end of the door, in the indented space on the door panel. You will be surprised at the sound difference.
-- Here's an easy way to hold your rear lid up while you remove the shocks, just use a rachet tie strap. It works great, b/c you can hoist it up and down in increments. This comes in handy when you are trying to put the gas shocks back on. Plus, with the ties, you don't have to worry about knocking the wood prop over and shattering your rear glass.
-- For your OnStar speaker, just use the center dash speaker which will get hooked up to the GMAH24B. You only need one speaker for your OnStar. You can put a new speaker there, or just use the one already there. I did something different, and ended putting my GPS & XM antenna in that spot instead. Here's a link to Nomad's write-up which helped me out.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1518095
Good Luck
