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A friend of mine in a corvette club wants to re-do his sound system. His 72 coupe has an aftermarket kenwood radio and speakers but the speakers are weak and he wants to add a sub. Since I'm the club's resident audio guy, he's asked my opinion.
I'm thinking a fronts-only component setup with a single 10" sub in the center cargo compartment. I'd like to run everything from a single 4 channel amp to save space.
I haven't worked on a c3 yet so any advice or suggestions are welcome. Note this will be an entry level system so figure mid-grade equipment (nothing fancy).
Last edited by TheRadioFlyer97; Nov 11, 2007 at 09:24 AM.
This is not a C5 (or even a C4 for that matter). Build tolerances are horrible by today's standards.
Assess everything you're going to touch well ahead of time. Remember, you're dealing with a 35-year-old car that probably won't respond well to poking, prodding and pulling. You're going to find that connectors and fasteners won't go back where they originally were. Some screw holes will become stripped simply from removing the screw, no matter how careful you are. Speed nuts will disintegrate as soon as you move them. Plastic-coated foam will crack and fall apart instead of compress like a sponge as it did in when new.
Working on an old car can be a very frustrating experience. Take your time, don't force anything and accept the fact that some things are going to break anyway. That's life.
If you're patient and reasonable in your goals, this can be one of the most rewarding installs you'll ever do.
The good news is that there are already aftermarket speaker installed (not more than a few years old themselves) so I'm going to assume most of what will break has already broken.
I am a little concerned about the rear cargo area and I'm also unfamiler with the power output of the stock alternator.
I had a small rockford fosgate in my '69 and it was too much for the alt., count on upgradeing. Good news is it's cheap, paid around 120.00 for a 100 amp chrome powermaster from jegs. Good luck with the system, I gave up, never could get decent sound outta it.
Go with icepower amps if you are concerned about power.
Do you have a link for more info?
Originally Posted by boardroomjimmy
I had a small rockford fosgate in my '69 and it was too much for the alt., count on upgradeing. Good news is it's cheap, paid around 120.00 for a 100 amp chrome powermaster from jegs. Good luck with the system, I gave up, never could get decent sound outta it.
How much power does the stock alternator crank out?
70-77 are similar. Kick panel speaker location (77 measured) is about
5 3/4" H X 4" W X 2 1/4" D. Some 5.25 can be mounted in the kick location (even angled back some) w/o mods to the kick panel.
Comp 5.25 work very well in kicks w/ the tweeters angled back & up leaving the dash sp. grilles open. While one would normally want the tweeters near the primary front speakers, tests showed the dash speaker location can work very well for tweeters.
If it has PW, speakers can be put in the doors in the window crank location.
Have a 4 Ch. amp in rear center compartment. The console/radio location (changed a little in 77) - it may be possible to put a small amp. under the radio or maybe behind the pass. dash pockets.
It's possible to put a sub. in a rear compartment as you noticed.
Kenwood eXcelon mask CD, 5.25 Comps in kick panels w/ amp in rear center compartment.
well the good news is that the "victim" is going to upgrade their alternator to at powermaster sometime in dec or jan. This should give me plenty of power to play with.
Since he likes to drive with the top down alot, I like the idea of dash mounted tweeters and especially having the large space of what appears to be a 4x6 sitting there now, I can have a custom mount (fiberglass?) built to properly aimi the tweets.
Door speakers I will definatly try to angle at least a little bit (30 degrees off flush sworked for my C5) I'll have to check on the power windows
Here's the fun part: The guy has a palstic storage bin that would make an excellent amp/sub box. The sun will probably be a low profile 10" and that side of the box will obviously require reinforcement, but along with quick disconnects this will allow the amp and sub to me removed for large cargo and security.