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Think about those numbers for a moment and you'll see why most car speakers (boxed systems) are pretty lousy.
Most or all? I have yet to hear a stock stereo in ANYTHING sound like something I would want to own. For years, I would listen to talk radio because I didn't want to screw up the experience that I had while listening to music in my home. When the car stereo market started to bloom in the early 80's, I finally was able to get something that I could tolerate. Since I've been out of the business for so long, I don't know what is any good out there. I do like the Memphis Audio setup I have in my classic Chevy though.
No one does, if only because there are physical limitations that won't allow it. Even 2khz is ambitious, and in most cases unrealistic. Around 1 khz is the practical limit for most decent-quality 8s. Most good 6.5" mids start to struggle at 1-2khz, and they're almost all falling apart by 4khz.
Think about those numbers for a moment and you'll see why most car speakers (boxed systems) are pretty lousy.
The Dyn I'm using is good to 3.5k on paper... but mho, it starts fading fast around 3k.
Then again, it's not a true 8, the cone is 6.77",
The actual Dyn 8 that has a 7.6" cone dies hard right at 2k.
Most or all? I have yet to hear a stock stereo in ANYTHING sound like something I would want to own...
Hehe, well, I'll go a step further and say we're talking about some of the best in the aftermarket. Most car audio speakers are lousy, for the reasons we discussed.
The actual Dyn 8 that has a 7.6" cone dies hard right at 2k
It gets messy long before the response line dips. The nature of CSD and THD plots, you can see the contributions by distortion to keeping the curve artificially high before the rolloff. Just because the knee is at 2k doesn't mean the breakup hasn't started more than an octave before. You need to examine the driver's impulse response to see these things.
Hehe, well, I'll go a step further and say we're talking about some of the best in the aftermarket. Most car audio speakers are lousy, for the reasons we discussed.
It's funny how the Alpine Type S speakers (coaxial) actually manage to sound like plastic
They make everything sound like all the instruments are made out of plastic...
Or Infinity, or Polk, or JL, or MBQ, or Boston, or.... It never ends. Even companies like Focal and Dyn use compromised crossovers and drivers trying to play outside their working ranges.
Or Infinity, or Polk, or JL, or MBQ, or Boston, or.... It never ends. Even companies like Focal and Dyn use compromised crossovers and drivers trying to play outside their working ranges.
Dyn crossovers have always been the worst, mho.
Hows this -
A dyn woofer is super inefficient. You need 200w to make it shine.
The crossover creates all sorts of distortion if you give it more than 100w.
From: Tampa Bay, Go BUCS!!!Go Rays!!!Go Lightning!!!
St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14
Junkman, there are plenty of folks that have just changed the twiddlers in front and replaced the rear speakers and thoguht there was a good improvement. Most use Boston Acoutics or Infinity. You CANNOT change the front subs because they are self amp'd and the head doesn't provide enough bass to drive anything else on its own.
This the the only small investment upgrade I've ever heard was worth the time.
Originally Posted by Junkman2008
You do realize that this is a TEMPORARY fix? I don't plan on this being the final installation. I just want to replace the crappy sounding Bose speakers with some after market speakers that will work with the factory radio. That's all. Now when I do decide to do this the right way, I'll be seriously taking all of your opinions into consideration. I trust the info that everyone is offering as I have been out of the car stereo business since 1987. A lot has changed since then.
Again, I just want to change the stock speakers with some better ones. That is the ONLY thing I want to do at this time. Can this be done or is there something about the stock radio that will not allow me to do this?
Again, I appreciate all of your inputs but you're trying to steer me into doing it the right way, instead of just doing this temporary fix that I'm trying to achieve. I'll eventually do the right way, but right now I just want different speakers if that, and only that, will improve the sound, even a little.
Junkman, there are plenty of folks that have just changed the twiddlers in front and replaced the rear speakers and thoguht there was a good improvement. Most use Boston Acoutics or Infinity. You CANNOT change the front subs because they are self amp'd and the head doesn't provide enough bass to drive anything else on its own.
This the the only small investment upgrade I've ever heard was worth the time.
Thanks JB, I was hoping to hear some info like that!
Yup, the head unit feeds low level signals to a Bose processor then the Bose processor feeds a low level signal to the door for the "sub". The processor also feeds low level signals back to the head unit for the small door speakers and the rear speakers.
So, the only real way to get rid of the door speakers is to either bypass the signal processor or replace the head unit. I guess you could find one out of something like a S10 which looks exactly the same but without the bose processor or maybe connect the low level outs and ins together bypassing the processor thereby running the speakers from the head unit. At least you'd have the final speakers in the car when you do get amps and a new head unit.