I just replaced my head unit with the Pioneer Avic D-3 and I already have a 12" sub in the back. It's time to toss the bose and get a new set of components in the front. I listen mostly to rock and metal. I was thinking about getting an Alpine MRP-F550-4 channel amp. Whatcha think? I also want a decent set of components for the front without breaking the bank. I have about $400.00 to make this all happen, any suggestions?

(pics of my current sub set up and possible new Amp...below)

I was thinking about using this amp?????


Current sub


D-3

 

what do you want them to sound like... where are you willing to install them... are you going to do deadeing... yatta yatta...

 

You can buy a "Hifonics Zeus" four channel amp which has a lot of power for the money at a lot of the usual audio places online.

Best bang for the buck if you're on a budget.

 

I had good luck with their mono amps.

 

$400 for a pair of comps and a good amp is going to go by really fast.

If you're running just front channels, that amp will put out plenty of power. If cost is a factor, You may want to look at the MRP F450 (down one size from the one you pictured.) you can pisk one of these up from ebay for under $200. In bridged mode, this amp will give you 200watts of power @ 4 ohms. plenty of power for your mids.

I'm using Alpine's SPX-177r components. The newer model SPX-17REF are out now and have a different style tweeter than the older model. These coupled with the Alpine MRP F450 should give you excellent sound for $384.

You'll have to fork out about $30-50 more for terminals, wires and MDF or other material to re-build your door speaker plate.

 

I don't want what I call a high pitch tone. I want to be able to turn it up loud without the highs screaming at me. I was thinking about installing the mids in the doors and the highs, either behind the door handles or on the pillars. I'm not sure on the deadening.

 

The high pitch tone can be dealt with using an EQ. Your Pioneer Avic D-3 appears to have a 3 band EQ (which isn't very specific) Some passive x-overs allow you to adjust the tweeter output seperate from the woofer. Or if you get comps that are Bi-Amp, you can run the woofer and tweeter on seperate channels and use the amp gains to adjust the tweet/woofer output.

 

Don't buy a harsh tweeter and EQ out the way it sounds... start with a good soft tweeter, aim it so it doesnt sound harsh, and then maybe use the EQ to tame it a bit.

harsh spitty tweeters will be harsh at 0, and still harsh at -3.

 

true. In my experience, The metal tweeters tend to have that annoyingly-bright tone.

 

Update: I can get an ALPINE MRP-F550 ($202.00 shipped) and a set of Alpine SPR-17s 6.5 ($133.00 shipped). Total= $335.00 shipped(flebay) I will still have some $$$ left over for amp install kit and materials for mounting the mids in the door. How does that sound?

Alpine SPR-17s 6.5

General Specs:
• Sensitivity: 87dB / W(1m)
• Impedence: 4 Ohms
• Frequency Response: 65Hz - 27kHz
Dimensions
• Crossover Size (in): 4-9/16'' x 2-7/8'' x 1-1/4''
• Crossover Size (mm): 115.4mm x 73mm x 32mm
• Woofer Mounting Depth (in): 2-5/16''
• Woofer Mounting Depth (mm): 59mm
• Woofer Mounting Diameter (in): 5-11/32''
• Woofer Mounting Diameter (mm): 136mm
• Woofer Diameter (in): 6-1/2''
• Woofer Diameter (mm): 165.1mm
• Tweeter Mounting Depth (in): 18.3mm
• Tweeter Mounting Depth (mm): 3/4''
• Tweeter Mounting Diameter (in): 2''
• Tweeter Mounting Diameter (mm): 51mm
Power Handling
• Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 220 Watts
• Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 110 Watts
• CEA-2031 Power Rating: 110 Watts

ALPINE MRP-F550

General Specs:
4-channel car amplifier
Max Power: 4 x 180W
Max Power:2 x 500W
RMS Power @ 4 ohms: 2 x 250W RMS (4ohms, 14.4V-BTL, 0.3% THD)
RMS Power @ 4 ohms: 4 x 90W RMS (4ohms, 14.4V, 0.08% THD)
RMS Power @ 2 ohms: 4 x 125W RMS (2ohms, 14.4V, 0.3% THD)
90 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (125 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
250 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
CEA-2006 compliant
2-, 3-, or 4-channel output
Variable high-pass/low-pass filters (50-400 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
Tuned Bass EQ (12 dB bass boost at 50 Hz for channels 3 & 4)
Subsonic filter (15 Hz, 24 dB/octave for channels 3 & 4)
MOSFET power supply
STAR Topology
Gold-plated screw terminals
Speaker- and preamp-level inputs
Preamp outputs
Fuse rating: 30A x 2
15-5/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-9/16"D

 

Good info. Thanks

 

Those where the words I was looking for "annoyingly-bright tone".

 

Type "R"s are good mid grade speakers. They have a beefy midrange when powered properly (which the MRP F550 can do)

Do you already have a Sub amp?

 

I paid more then $400 for a pair of mids and highs

 

Sorry!!

 

Yep. Kicker Solo-Baric L5--600 watt RMS and a Rockford Fosgate Punch 500 RMS/2 channel-bridged to single channel 2 ohms.
Don't forget the custom box built buy yours truely.

 

Then you probably paid too much money.

That's usually a function of incorrect application, poor level-matching in the XO, or simply a poor tweeter. In the upper third of quality, you'd be hard-pressed to tell whether a tweeter is metal or cloth without looking at it.

 

The applications I speak of were using the older model Alpine S-types coaxials. These were my first real aftermarket speakers and being on a budget, there were the best I could afford in high school. The system was really basic not including an amplifier until I started College. (but by that time I'd learned enough to buy a set of components and experiement with sound processing and tweeter positioning) I think this may just be a feature of the lower end speakers.

 

Understood. Good OEM metal domes are some of the most detailed and engaging drivers you'll come across. You're right that they do sound different than cloth domes, but a competent XO easily addresses that. Most coaxes have nothing more than a small cap on the tweeter and the mid's left to run as far as it can. That's effectively only to keep the tweeter from being fried. It's not really an XO.

Sorry if we hijacked.

 

I put focal
Focal 165 K2P 6.5 in front
and polyglass v2 in rear

They were not as bright as the MB quart and Infinity