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I'm currently running a pair of Alpine MRP F250 amps to a set of 4 Alpine SPX 177r comp speakers. The amps are bridged at 100 Watts x 2 output. I'm looking at the slightly larger (and reasonably priced since last year) MRP F450. It's only 2 inches wider than my current amps and would fit in the same space in my Amp rack. It would also accept the same KOL 8 power/ground wires i'm using. (my current setup has the amps as the weakest link)
Ideally, the MRP F450 model would supply 200 Watts per channel. The SPX 177r speakers have a peak power handling of 300watts and I feel the Woofers are being significantly underpowered.
When I originally designed my system, the MRP F250 and F450 were new amps. I only went with the 250 because they were less expensive but designed the amp rack to support the larger 450 in the future. In the past year, new stuff has come out that made the price on the 450 drop.
Since I've owned my system, I feel that most of my "high bass" has been coming from the sub. The JL 500 pushes the JL12w6v2 very well and in some cases it seems to overpower the rest of the system. to remedy this problem I've installed a remote bass boost for the JL amp in the center console and played with the EQ but I know this is just a Band-Aid for the problem.
My goal is to get a more powerful kick from the midranges and balance them out with the sub. If I sell my old amps and buy the new ones, I would be out ~$50-100.
Just get you a JL 450/4 for the highs and be done with it. I love mine and after my car was tuned it's more than enough power.
Below is a link to my install:
Just get you a JL 450/4 for the highs and be done with it. I love mine and after my car was tuned it's more than enough power.
Below is a link to my install:
after my car was tuned it's more than enough power.
Phase is a completely relative thing and is highly dependent on frequency, driver distance, time of flight, acoustic center, driver radiation angle and electrical filters (crossover components). It's also determined for exactly one listening position, since obviously when you move your head you change several of the above factors.
You also have to remember that loudspeakers are not simply IN or OUT of phase. Phase is measured in degrees, so for example, two drivers which are 90 degrees out of acoustic phase relative to one another will remain 90 degrees out whether you reverse the electrical polarity of one or both. It's not a simple thing to rectify. You can certainly improve the sound by messing with what little control you have but it will be at the expense of some other listening position (if that's important). More power won't have any effect on it whatsoever.
I rarely carry passengers, mostly because my driving scares people. My ERA G320 doesn't have a degree variable phase option so I'm limited what corrections I do have: Time alignment, 14 band graphic EQ, Phase reversal and those nifty SPX series passive Xovers.
I'm hearing conflicting opinions on the amp upgrade.
I rarely carry passengers, mostly because my driving scares people. My ERA G320 doesn't have a degree variable phase option so I'm limited what corrections I do have: Time alignment, 14 band graphic EQ, Phase reversal and those nifty SPX series passive Xovers.
I'm hearing conflicting opinions on the amp upgrade.
For what you want to do, changing amps is probably the least effective solution.