So I had some work done replacing the factory speakers and adding an amp.

Here's the setup:

Focal front/rear speaker replacements
JL 300/4 Amp

JL Stealthbox
JL 250/1 Amp

My question is...I noticed that after having this stuff installed...it seems that the sound is mono, with no difference between left/right. I notice because certain songs that I know have distinct sections where stuff comes in either the left or the right aren't doing that anymore.

My wife's car has a similar setup with a JL 300/4 amp running replacement factories. Of course she also has a different car (xB, with an Apline HU from factory...also running a JL CleanSweep), but I play the same songs in her car and can pick up on the distinctive left/right variants.

So what's the deal here? Why did the installer set my system up to basically run mono. It's as if one output signal is going to all speakers, rather than having left/right and front/rear. Is this something because of the way the BOSE is or whatever? Otherwise, what can I possibly do, if anything, to get that left/right stereo in my current setup. I really think it's effecting the sound quality. The new stuff sounds great, but I do notice that it's a bit more flat sounding than my wife's system which sounds a lot more spacial.

Hope this makes sense...

 

that probably because they tapped into the rear speakers and the rears are mono in the c6

 

So is that how it should be or what?

I mean isn't that limiting the sound quality? wouldn't things sound a bit nicer if I had left/right difference? Like would the fronts sound a bit cleaner if they weren't running the same signal and they were running a true separate left/right signals?

Is it possible to have it setup that way rather than how it seems they did it tapping into the rears as you said?

Is this what needs done?

http://www.lazyassgeek.com/c6-stereo...-unit-harness/

And thanks for the tip...

 

I remember reading a discussion that rear speakers can actually be beneficial in a sound quality set up, if bandpassed, played low, and ran in summed mono. And then delayed out quite a lot.


Who knows though.


Lower rear speaker volume until you can hear the left and right disparity.

 

should be wired up how it is posted in that link, any other way is your installer dicking you over and being lazy, he shouldnt charge u a penny extra to do this the right way and fix what he did.

If you use the balance and fade what does it do, does it fade and balance properly.

 

Nope...fade/balence doesn't do what it should.

To wire it how it is in that link so I need some type of interface adapter or what?

Thanks for the tips...I'm going back to the installer tomorrow to ask/complain...so I'm just trying to know just what to say/ask for/show him.

 

Ok first ask him where he tapped in for the signal. if he doesnt say rear speakers, ask him why your fade and balance dont work right. Bring that diagram/printout and be like look here are the low level pinouts at the back of the radio 100s of people do it this way and this is the right way I would like it fixed. You do not need any adapter at all, if you dont want any of your factory wiring splice you can get this harness http://sonicelectronix.com/item_5944_PAC+ADD-GM24.html note this is all you need other then some connectors for the ends, you do not need a pac box like they will try to sell you or tell you you need, this box only adds noise and numerous members have researched and found out the box is a waste.

basically tell him you want it wired this way by splicing in to low level at back of radio. Your system should sound 80x better afterwards and fade/balance properly.

Also ask him what he was thinking splicing in at the rear speakers for you 4 channel amp, this might be ok for a sub, but not a 4 channel, and you are right the sound is mono how its setup currently.

Let me know what happens. If you need some to talk to him PM me and ill give you my number

 

basically id just print the link and be like this is how i want it done. Tell your installer he can just splice the positive leads and then for the negative leads just bring them all together and run them to a ground screw on the radio chasis

this is how i always do it after doing 2 and getting crazy noise I went to the ground on the radio chasis and it worked great so I do all of them like that and its less splicing

 

Thanks a lot for the help...I'll let you know how it goes...

At least now I can go in armed with info...instead of just asking questions and getting answers I don't understand.

 

That's practically CRIMINAL! OK, it's one thing to tap those speakers for signal for a sub add-on (still bad but you can get away with it) but for the whole system... wow. Do NOT let them get away with this one - they took the easy, uninformed way out and it shouldn't cost you a penny for them to do it right.

 

Ok I stopped in and talked to him about the setup and what he thought about the suggestions here.

First off, he wasn't sure why I'd want to tap into the low level at the back of the deck instead of the high pass. His take was that the low level would be beneficial to run the subs, but for the front/rears, you wouldn't want the low level line, you'd want the high level or whatever. Does that sound right or make any sense? Why would we want to run the front/rears from the low level instead of the high?

He did however agree that tapping into the rears and taking that two channel signal (mono) and running it 4 ways (fronts/rears) wasn't the ideal setup. He said he's using a line level converter in there already, buto he said he could run another line level converter to make the signal from the rears run 4ways and get the left/right separated.

I also showed that GM adapter thing and he said that wouldn't do anything different for the same above reasons...that it would just give the same low level outs.

However, after looking at the LazyAssGeek stuff some more...I'm wondering if I explained it to him wrong. I showed him that Low Level Out diagram explaining that's how he could get low level outs, and that's why he was saying it wouldn't make sense to run that way for the front/rears...but when looking at the "C6 Bose Speaker Wire Colors," I'm thinking that the high outputs are ALSO back there.

I'm confused now...

But...is this right...

That diagram showing the low level outs...are the high level 4 channel outs ALSO on there? So essentially, instead of having him keep the setup with the amp tapped into the rear high level output and running another line level converter...can he just use the high level outs as shown on this:

http://www.lazyassgeek.com/c6-stereo...-unit-harness/

http://www.lazyassgeek.com/c6-stereo...r-wire-colors/


Sorry for being so much trouble...I'm just royally confused...

 

You always ALWAYS ALWAYS use a pre-amp level signal when one is available. Whether it's subs or full-range makes no difference.

This is a stunning example of how there are installers, then there are kids who simply hook stuff up. Don't let this kid touch your car again.

 

Ok so what are you saying there?

So he SHOULD use the low level outs? And why?

Sorry for being so redundant...I just want to know EXACTLY what to say...


And again...why won't a CleanSweep work in the C6? I've read it's because the factory Bose puts out a "flat" signal. Does this mean there's no true, dedicated left/right/front/back being sent out? In other words if I have a track that puts one sound out of the left speaker, and another sound out of the right speaker and goes back and forth...I'd never be able to achieve that with the BOSE?

 

Without getting into too many complexities... the preamp level signal is "cleaner" and less prone to the distortions that speaker-level signals are prone to. Think of it this way... if you go but a nice new aftermarket car CD receiver and an amp, do you drive the amp from the receiver's speaker outputs or the RCA plugs? Simple, the RCA plugs. No one will dispute this.

The CleanSweep is designed to counter the equalization that's built into many factory head units. Many have some fixed EQ built in to some extent. Some do not. The C6 factory CD or NAV does NOT have built-in fixed EQ, and this makes the CleanSweep unnecessary in this car.

Saying a component is 'flat' is saying that there is no built-in fixed EQ. In other words, the factory CD player does not have a built-in bass boost to overcome the speakers' bass limitations, or vice-versa. Ideally you WANT a 'flat' output signal. The C6 NAV has a 'flat' output.

These things have nothing to do with your ability to balance the LEFT/RIGHT or FRONT/REAR settings. The reason you have that problem is because the speaker-level signal tapped by the "installer" (I'm being kind, here) is essentially mono and has some response irregularities because those speakers are being driven by a BOSE amplifier that does NOT have a flat output. They also contain more noise than the signal that originally left the CD player. Therefore you have to circumvent the factory amplifiers.

Make sense?

 

I'm wondering if perhaps the term "low level" is getting mixed up with low-pass here. By "low level" I mean pre-amp, line-level, NOT SPEAKER LEVEL. It is the RCA-output FULL RANGE signal, without crossover. It's like using teh RCA outputs from the back of an aftermarket head - that's what you're after.

 

It was getting confused a bit, i talked to him and then his installer and its all going to be fixed the right way. Installer kept thinking lowpass signal. He also didnt tap at the rear speakers he tapped at the amp lol thinking that would be better or something who knows, but it should all be fixed

 

Cool, good work, glad to know it got taken care of. I'll try to be more careful in my use of terms.....

 

I want to say thanks to all of you for taking the time to help me figure this out. Also thanks for taking the time to actually go the extra yard and speak with the installer to get this squared away. I couldn't have asked for more! You guys rock!

I will be sure to post results next week once he does the work. I can rest easy now, knowing everyone is on the same page.

Big thanks!

 

Is there a cable adapter that would go between the radio and wire harness so I can hook up a sub amp or do I have to cut/tap wires: for the right and left rear speakers at the back of the radio.

Is the signal at the rear speakers full range or is the bass filtered out?

Bose system/no nav 2005 C6

I want to use an infinity basslink that was given to me as a gift. I have it so I want to use it.

 

I noticed you were in NC; there is a place in Clayton NC Adrenaline Autosound; Dave Evans Master Installer Certified; 919-359-0009 give him a call and see if he can help