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Don't forget to deaden here...

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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 07:09 PM
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Default Don't forget to deaden here...





About two layers will fit before having issues putting the wheel well liner back in. Forget putting in foam. It's not going to happen.

Get everywhere you can, making sure to stay a little bit away from hot sources (exhaust pipes.) and be mindful of what is visible when the well liner is back in.

Be sure to use a QUALITY damping mat, such as Raamat BXT, Dynamat Extreme, B-Quiet, SecondSkin... Check out results of heat tests on the sound deadener showdown site. This is NOT a place to use peel & seal or edead. Especially not Edead because the adhesive will fail, and primarily because its plastic backed (not foil backed.) Remember, LESS of a quality product is BETTER than MORE of a crap product.

If you feel adventurous, LEAD would work very well.

And remember that DOUBLING mass means 5db of loss. It's very important you get deadening in all the nooks and crannies.

I did one side at a time and drove it. It definitely makes a difference in road noise. Not in exhaust resonance (wouldnt imagine it shouldn't anyway.)

Keep in mind i ALSO have a lot of liquid edead on the other side, as well as 2 layers of raaamat and luxury liner.

But don't forget to hit this area. It's better to treat near the source.
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 11:49 PM
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Kale,
I am thinking of using the Second Skin Sludge in that area of my C4, how do you think it would work there? Any problems?

Thanks, Randy
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by RandyJ75
Kale,
I am thinking of using the Second Skin Sludge in that area of my C4, how do you think it would work there? Any problems?

Thanks, Randy
I've talked to Anthony @ Second Skin about that. The sludge isn't designed to adhere to that material so it may not be durable.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 08:54 AM
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Is that panel seperate from the interior?
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by TheRadioFlyer
Is that panel seperate from the interior?
Nope all the same bit of smc.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Kale
Nope all the same bit of smc.
Knowing that you've deadened your entire interior, what made you want to do this area? What noise difference did you notice?
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by TheRadioFlyer
Knowing that you've deadened your entire interior, what made you want to do this area? What noise difference did you notice?
I'm targeting tire noise right now, and this helped somewhat. Definitely enough to make doing this worthwhile.


Right now, after all I've done, at 65mph on a nice road, pretty much my only noise is wind noise from the window corners... which sadly I can't do anything about.

Last edited by Kale; Jan 2, 2008 at 10:45 AM.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Kale
I'm targeting tire noise right now, and this helped somewhat. Definitely enough to make doing this worthwhile.


Right now, after all I've done, at 65mph on a nice road, pretty much my only noise is wind noise from the window corners... which sadly I can't do anything about.
I'm working on ways to remedy window noise. I only get wind noise above 75. After i adjusted the window seal compression. Did you use second skin on the wheel wells? Did you do thr fronts as well?
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRadioFlyer
I'm working on ways to remedy window noise. I only get wind noise above 75. After i adjusted the window seal compression. Did you use second skin on the wheel wells? Did you do thr fronts as well?
It's RAAMAT. My wind noise shows up around 65, its really bad at 75.

It used to show up around 50, until I did the window clip and adjusted the window alignment.

didn't bother doing the front wheel wells. In fact, the front half of my car (doors aside) is barely deadened at all.

There is little point in putting mat on the "spine" of the car. You have to double mass to get an appreciable difference with mass loading. The center tunnel is pretty decent steel, so... adding mat would be like pissing into the ocean.
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Kale
I've talked to Anthony @ Second Skin about that. The sludge isn't designed to adhere to that material so it may not be durable.
Thats disappointing. I would think that it would last longer than the RAAMAT. What kind of material would the sludge adhere to best? What if the surface was prepared before hand, would that help make it stick?

Thanks,

Randy
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RandyJ75
Thats disappointing. I would think that it would last longer than the RAAMAT. What kind of material would the sludge adhere to best? What if the surface was prepared before hand, would that help make it stick?

Thanks,

Randy
He commented that painting the surface with primer might help. I would suggest looking for a primer that has good adhesion to fiberglass/plastic and has a high heat tolerance.
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 12:44 PM
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If I do this will I get CAKE? (sorry--couldn't help myself once I looked under your avatar.)
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Ben Diss
If I do this will I get CAKE? (sorry--couldn't help myself once I looked under your avatar.)
You will be baked, and then there will be cake.
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 01:44 PM
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Lizard skin claims that their's will stick to fiberglass. I have read several articles that it has been used on fiberglass street rods and that they were pleased with the results.
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