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Complete system upgrade final question

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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 10:09 AM
  #1  
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Default Complete system upgrade final question

I have a 2005 coupe with Bose no On Star. I have been reading all of the posts from everyone and have picked out all of the parts for my stereo:

I currently have sitting in my living room:
Pioneer AVIC-Z2 w/ bluetooth adapter
JL Audio 500/5 amp
Polk MMC6500 components for the front
Polk MMC525 Coaxial for the rear
antenna adapter
Metra install kit
Speaker plates
Peripheral GMCO and GMAHCM.

I am getting ready to order the driver and passenger side sub box from madvettemotorsports and I am planing on using the JL Audio 10W1V2 in the boxes.

My question is with the 500/5 should I get 2 4-ohm subs and parallel them to 2 ohms on the sub channel? The specs for the amp are:

Rated Power Sub woofer Channel: 250 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

Does that mean that I need to put 1.5 ohms on the amp to get the full250W?

It's been about 10 years since I have dome a complete stereo so sorry if this is a dumb question. Just want to make sure it all sounds good for the $$$ it's costing me. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 10:37 AM
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nope you will get 250 at anywhere from 1.5-4 ohms or whatever the numbers were
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by pentavolvo
nope you will get 250 at anywhere from 1.5-4 ohms or whatever the numbers were
I don't know what type of technology JL has built into this amp but how can that possibly be the case?
the impedance of the sub is the resistance on the circuit for that speaker, the lower the resistance, the more power output you get. I don't see how they could have designed an amplifier which would output the same wattage over such a wide range of 1.5-4 ohms. at 1.5 ohms the amp will put out over double the wattage that it will with a 4 ohm load. the only way I can see that JL could get away with that would be to have the amp automatically throttle back at lower impedances...and that makes no sense whatsoever.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 12:02 PM
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That's what I was thinking and why I had to ask. I have always seen the amps advertise the wattage at each impedance. I would say then running 2 ohms will get me as close as possible to the 250 they advertise.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by athaynes
That's what I was thinking and why I had to ask. I have always seen the amps advertise the wattage at each impedance. I would say then running 2 ohms will get me as close as possible to the 250 they advertise.
I agree, or if you have the ability to wire your speakers to get down to 1.5ohms even better.
just in case the formula for calculating the overall resistance when wiring in parallel is:
1/R = 1/r1 + 1/r2 +...
for series its much easier
R = r1 + r2 + r3 etc

where R is the final resistance, and r1, r2 etc are the individual resistances of the drivers.

remember also that the B+ voltage will affect amplifier output as well. the spec says 11V-14.5V, well the amplifier is going to make more wattage at 14.5V than it is at 11V. how much more depends on the efficiency among other factors of the amplifiers circuitry.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 12:08 PM
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not sure how it works either but i think the alpine pdx line does the same
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 12:54 PM
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You guys are thinking in analog terms, and from that approach you are correct. But the Alpine PDX, and I suppose looking at those specs this JL amp in question, are digital amplifiers. Whatever circuits they use delivers the same output over that specified resistance band.

The old rules don't apply once you get to class D.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 01:01 PM
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Here is a little info about JL's RIPS power supply in that amp.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_a...php?page_id=46
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 01:19 PM
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now that's cool!
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 01:38 PM
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It will do same power i can tell you first hand
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 02:30 PM
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Yes that is very cool! Thanks for the help. My how things have changed since my last stereo install. Now I just need to stuff all that gear into the car and see about some premature hearing loss!
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