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I'm looking for advice on replacing the front speakers in a 2001 z06. So far I've added a subwoofer and a 4 channel amp with two channels bridged for the sub. This leaves me two for the front speakers.
From what I read so far, it seems I could have a better sounding system for less money by putting together my own components using drivers from Madisound, or parts express. Rather than buying a set from an auto sound company. Does anybody have any recommendations on what would be a good choice? Also what should I use for crossovers? I saw that Madisound can make custom crossovers. Is that something I should look into?
I would like the sound to be accurate and detailed.
building your own crossover is harder than it looks, unless they are the prebuilt ones or you know what you want. Your better off using ones that are supplied with a component set. invest in a good set of 6.5" components and you'll be good to go. look at polk, focal if you want to spend the extra dough. focal will be the better speaker
From what I read so far, it seems I could have a better sounding system for less money by putting together my own components using drivers from Madisound, or parts express. Rather than buying a set from an auto sound company. Does anybody have any recommendations on what would be a good choice? Also what should I use for crossovers? I saw that Madisound can make custom crossovers. Is that something I should look into?
I would like the sound to be accurate and detailed.
Building crossovers (accurately) is an extraordinarily difficult thing. I've been doing it for 20 years and even with computer simulators, it takes me more than a month to get a design tweaked. The 'cookbook' tables you often see with capacitor and coil values are meaningless in the real world, so don't try that. There's way more to crossovers than dividing a signal electrically. Madisound can certainly build you a decent set for use in a home system, but the intricacies of a car install change everything.
Really the best solution is this: get help from an experienced person in selecting good value and high quality OEM drivers like those at Madisound. Then use an active crossover with 4 channels of amplification (a small 4 x 50 run active will perform better than a 2x100 into garden-variety passives) to the front stage. Nineteen times in twenty, this will sound better than anything you can buy in a box for car audio. It comes down to good driver choices.
Ultimately, this takes a tad more effort than buying a boxed set of components, but it's one of only two paths to getting better sound.
Feel free to PM or IM me if you need a little guidance.
Ok so the best route would be to use active crossovers. Which will require me to get an additional amp? Spkrboy do you have any recommendations on OEM drivers?
there is a post on the forum about going active with a bunch of driver characteristics and recommendations. i bet a quick search may bring up the thread.
If you want to eliminate passive components and go active all around, then extra channels of amplification are necessary in all circumstances.
Drivers I would recommend will depend on your design goals, mounting locations and musical tastes.
My design goal would be to have a system that sounds as clean and accurate as possible. I had planned on mounting the drivers in the door at the stock locations. As far as musical tastes I listen to everything from classical to metal except rap and country.
Originally Posted by scott_fx
there is a post on the forum about going active with a bunch of driver characteristics and recommendations. i bet a quick search may bring up the thread.
I actually have already done this. I found Lots of good info, especially your link to zaphaudio. But I’m still a little unsure on what would be a good combo. And how to match a tweeter with a midrange.
... especially your link to zaphaudio. But I’m still a little unsure on what would be a good combo. And how to match a tweeter with a midrange.
Therein lies the key. You should look for a midrange / tweeter combination that has significant response overlap. The more range they share, the more flexible your crossover settings can be. Pay particular attention to the behaviors of each driver in that region as well, as a peaky response indicates some distortion that will hamper your pursuits. Conversely, drivers with smooth rolloffs will be easier to integrate. Obviously driver physical size will play a role in selection too. Smoothness is far more important than ultra-flat response. That smoothness allows you to avoid most if not all passive components.
We share a lot of musical tastes. I can say that over the years I've developed a fondness for Vifa and Seas. My appreciation for Focal is waning of late. High-dollar drivers like Scan-Speak or Accuton are completely unnecessary. Drivers to avoid would include pretty much anything built by Morel or much from Hi-Vi. There's no reason to spend more than $75 per mid or $50 per tweeter, and you will find there are many candidates for considerably less than that.
If you grasp many of the concepts on Zaph's site, keep reading. There's a ton of useful information there. His driver measurements are spot-on.
Therein lies the key. You should look for a midrange / tweeter combination that has significant response overlap. The more range they share, the more flexible your crossover settings can be. Pay particular attention to the behaviors of each driver in that region as well, as a peaky response indicates some distortion that will hamper your pursuits. Conversely, drivers with smooth rolloffs will be easier to integrate. Obviously driver physical size will play a role in selection too. Smoothness is far more important than ultra-flat response. That smoothness allows you to avoid most if not all passive components.
We share a lot of musical tastes. I can say that over the years I've developed a fondness for Vifa and Seas. My appreciation for Focal is waning of late. High-dollar drivers like Scan-Speak or Accuton are completely unnecessary. Drivers to avoid would include pretty much anything built by Morel or much from Hi-Vi. There's no reason to spend more than $75 per mid or $50 per tweeter, and you will find there are many candidates for considerably less than that.
If you grasp many of the concepts on Zaph's site, keep reading. There's a ton of useful information there. His driver measurements are spot-on.
Thanks For all the advice! I really appreciate it. I’ll have to update this in the future and share what I come up with.
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