I have a Nine.5 5 channel amp from elemental designs. It can put out 600 watts to the sub at 1 ohm.

first set up was with a elemental designs 12 inch 13Kv.2 150 / 500 Rms double 2 ohm coils. I ran this in parallel for 1 ohm and blew it.

new set up same amp elemental designs 12 inch 13Ov.2 400 / 900 Rms Double 4 ohm coils. I ran this in series (measured 7 ohms)

What are the pros and cons of parallel vs series? Am I safer with series? Is the SQ better with one or the other.

Currently it sounds great in a Subthump box in my C-5 but I am worried about durability. Any input? Just don't want to blow it again!!


Details of products:

Model : NINe.5
Number of Channels : 5
4 x 100w + 1 x 250w @ 4Ohm, 4 x 175w+ 1 x 450w @2Ohm
1 x 600w @ 1ohm (Sub Channel)
Length : 25.5 - Width : 10.25 - Height : 2.25


Series : K-Series v.2
Model : 13Kv.2 Subwoofer
Avaliable Voice Coils : D2 / D4
Cell� Size : Sealed 1.0 - - Vented 1.5 - IB Capable
Rec. Power Application : 150 / 500WRms
Qts : .31 - Vas : 33L - SPL : 88.47 - Xmax: 15.1MM


Series : O-Series v.2
Model : 13Ov.2 Subwoofer
Avaliable Voice Coils : D2 / D4
Cell� Size : Sealed 1.0 - - Vented 1.5 - IB Capable
Rec. Power Application : 400 / 900WRms
Qts : .28 - Vas : 176L - SPL : 89.1 - Xmax: 18.3MM


Thanks

 

There's no safety in one type of wiring vs the other, it just determines the load the amp will see. By running the 4 ohm coils in series as you are now you're presenting that 7-8 ohms and probably only getting 150W into the sub. By running them in parallel you'd be presenting about 2 ohms to the amp and getting more like 300, which you would likely find to be better. While ED rates that sub @ 89.1db based on actual testing results we've seen from their subs they're typically much less sensitive than that so under powering them will produce likely produce unsatisfactory results.

I can understand your worries about having blown the first sub and being conservative, but presenting a 2 ohm load to an amp that's rated to 1 is also pretty conservative. Regardless of power ratings you still have to watch the one setting that can have very unpredictable results... the volume ****!

 

Hey Big K,

Might want to recheck this one after a cup of coffee

Phil

 

LOL, it often times takes more than one.

 

Apparently an even half dozen wasn't enough this morning.

I fixed my post, thanks for pointing out my mistake boys. I know which is which when I'm hooking them up... I just don't do it often enough for the names to stick in my head.

 

ive heard that when hooking up studio quality sound systems, using more ohms is desirable, because the amp will give off "cleaner" power to the speakers at a higher ohm rating, maby because the system puts out less power ( and less distortion ) at higher ohms
but
thats what ive heard.

car stereo amps that are "1 and 2 ohm capable" generaly give off more of a distorted sound than when running at 4 or more ohms.
again may be due to the dramatic power increase as ohms drop,

but I wouldnt want to be listening to an orchestra (motzart or whatever) recording at 2 ohms

 

Except for damping factor (which is negligible outside sub frequencies), none of that has any merit.

 

Someone at Best Buy told me that series will give better sound quality. Yes? No?

I am planning to move from series to parallel. What would I notice different? config in original post.

 

If you're blowing drivers, you're running your system loud enough that the small difference in damping factor will be unnoticeable from parallel to series. The only real difference between the two is the power the amp generates. The guy at Best Buy works at Best Buy for a reason, and it's not because he's moonlighting after an engineering job.

Self-control with the volume **** and bass boost are generally the biggest reasons a driver gets blown. That said, it's my experience that ED subs are cheap Taiwanese/Chinese drivers with low quality control, and I'm in no way surprised you damaged one. Unless your listening habits change, it will happen again. Sorry.

 

So if I leave the series because there would be little if any difference would the amp be just as happy with it? Or would it be better on the system to go to parllel in the long run?

Listening wise it is XM talk radio in the morning and part of long trips. Louder rock on the way home on occasion. I really don't think I am someone who pushes it to the limit all the time.

One other detail of the blow out I left out, didn't think it was relavent was the Nine.5 amp blew too. The ED guys told me I blew the speaker first and the speaker made the amp blow. Replaced the amp and upgraded the speaker. The way it happened went like this: Driving home loud music. Suddenly no sub but the fronts worked. Turned off the system and drove home. Next morning turned it on and fronts came on but no sub for a few minutes then a blast of that electrical burning smell (I think that is when the sub actually blew) and then blown 60 watt fuse and whole amp dead. Since the ED guys told me just the sub blew I bought a sub from Best Buy to put on and when it went on and fuse changed the sub went to "full out" cone pressed out all the way (I think this state is what fried the ED sub after a few minutes) Removed the sub and checked the output of the sub channel and it showed 46 volts dc constant. Should show about that but ac and variable. So my conclusion is amp went first due to a defect, blew the sub.

What I want to end up with is a system that will not destroy itself. I think I am ok because i have a new amp. The system sounds awsome with 4 Boston Pro 60's (I know people say just go with 2 but I figured I could always fade the backs out if I didn't like it.)

Why can some people listen to loud music all the time but my system shouldn't go loud or it will blow? I suppose some people replace lots of equipment along the way, maybe ragging on cheaper stuff anyway?

 

There are a few reasons a driver dies, and the two I mentioned are the most common reasons. Others are... using the wrong enclosure, incorrect venting, driver defects, excessive EQ, or even a low-quality amplifier. The strong smell you encountered was likely the amp burning up, whether the sub went before the amp or the amp before the sub really isn't important. Series vs. parallel *shouldn't* make any difference except in power, unless the impedance drops too low for the amplifier. There no way to really know that ahead of time except from a given company's reputation, which in this case is somewhat dubious (see post #9). Ultimately what really matters is that you learn why this happened so as to avoid it again, whether it's the amp, the sub or your volume control.

I don't rip equipment just to do it or because I don't like the fans of a certain company. There are very important reasons some equipment is more expensive than others. Sometimes it's just a company's attempt at 'placing' themselves in the market, pretending they're better than they really are just because their stuff is expensive. Others are legitimately better. It is a very true statement that you get what you pay for. Now, there are exceptions, and those exceptions are worth searching out. My experience tells me ED is not one of the exceptions.

With that in mind, you have to step back and look at your situation. The amp isn't equipped with any meaningful protection circuitry. The driver is a cheap Asian model that is not likely to hold up to any sort of abuse, and likely doesn't even meet the company's specifications. As I said above, there's a good chance it will happen again.