My DIY sub-system
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 8,995
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From: Spring Texas
St. Jude Donor '08
and def check out this guy:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ad.php?t=30378
be sure to click on his link to his website in his sig and also look at his other posts on that forum.. he does some great work
) What are the ports tuned to? assuming the image is accurate I'd estimate 70-80hz which is bad news. assuming they are 3x7 or so.
if each port was 3x25" that would give you a tuning of 34hz. Good SPL bump, but you'd want to use a subsonic filter.
that box is a prime candidate for slot porting (building a "maze" of walls)
if each port was 3x25" that would give you a tuning of 34hz. Good SPL bump, but you'd want to use a subsonic filter.
that box is a prime candidate for slot porting (building a "maze" of walls)
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 51,504
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From: Sacramento CA
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 88
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From: Lexington Park Maryland
Thanks for the comments. The nice thing about the sony amp is that it has a 40hz notch, 0-10db boost filter. Also has an adjustable 10 hz subsonic filter. The pioneer spec says a 0.6 cu. ft. 7" ported enclosure should have a 5db resonant freq of 60hz.
I intentionally placed the sub amp off center to add a 4 channel amp in the future. Did a fit check of the baseboard, had to trim the ends to tilt fit into cargo space. My problem is: should I install the base board and then screw the top board onto the pillars, using weather strip to seal the sub-panels? Or should I remove the trunk lid supports, glue the top and install the entire assembly. If thieves want the subs, they will have to take the whole vett. More pics are on the way.
I intentionally placed the sub amp off center to add a 4 channel amp in the future. Did a fit check of the baseboard, had to trim the ends to tilt fit into cargo space. My problem is: should I install the base board and then screw the top board onto the pillars, using weather strip to seal the sub-panels? Or should I remove the trunk lid supports, glue the top and install the entire assembly. If thieves want the subs, they will have to take the whole vett. More pics are on the way.
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Magnolia Texas
Fire your ports out of the sides near the wells for corner loading. From the looks of it now, the area around them is going to act as a second chamber and change your tuning on you. 2cents gl.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Lexington Park Maryland
install + test
Got the false floot installed today. The fit is perfect, no movement or vibration. Here's the pics:
Base with amp + speakers...started wiring
Base board fit check in cargo area:
Everything wired and securing the lid:
Access to storage bins:
I was getting some thumps from bass drums, so brought the 40Hz notch amp to 0dB. Set the cutoff filter to about 150Hz + the subsonic filter ON. The sound is nice now, bass guitar is real smooth, and bass drum is just about right, where I can feel it more than hear it. Just waiting on the cargo mat from Jim at Southern.
Base with amp + speakers...started wiring
Base board fit check in cargo area:
Everything wired and securing the lid:
Access to storage bins:
I was getting some thumps from bass drums, so brought the 40Hz notch amp to 0dB. Set the cutoff filter to about 150Hz + the subsonic filter ON. The sound is nice now, bass guitar is real smooth, and bass drum is just about right, where I can feel it more than hear it. Just waiting on the cargo mat from Jim at Southern.
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 88
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From: Lexington Park Maryland
Finished
Got the carpet in; here's photos of finished sub-floor
I plan on sweeping the subs with a tone-generator so I can get an idea of resonant freq......I'm guessing around 55 Hz. It will be interesting to find out if I have 2 seperate freqs.
I plan on sweeping the subs with a tone-generator so I can get an idea of resonant freq......I'm guessing around 55 Hz. It will be interesting to find out if I have 2 seperate freqs.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 467
Likes: 1
From: LI New York
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Looks good 
Are you still taking your 12V from the fuse block positive connection? I checked the shop manual and the feed that supplies the fuse box is only 4 GA. Adding all that additional amperage could overload the factory feed.
Are you still taking your 12V from the fuse block positive connection? I checked the shop manual and the feed that supplies the fuse box is only 4 GA. Adding all that additional amperage could overload the factory feed.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Lexington Park Maryland
I try to listen to all opinions. Even the very hash comments are taken into consideration. The more you bash me, the better I listen. That's why I would never make it in the movie business. Artists are sooo sensitive!
Will probably move the power wire to Batt terminal. AWG says a 4Ga. wire will withstand 135 amps. I checked the current draw under normal op conditions, drawing about 30 amp peak. I suppose with lights, RD and all loads on, will be close to the rating. Can you suggest a higher amp-cap battery to install?
Will probably move the power wire to Batt terminal. AWG says a 4Ga. wire will withstand 135 amps. I checked the current draw under normal op conditions, drawing about 30 amp peak. I suppose with lights, RD and all loads on, will be close to the rating. Can you suggest a higher amp-cap battery to install?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,572
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From: Los Angeles Ca
[/brag]
Pro
Joined: May 2007
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From: WayTooCloseToNY Northeast PA
The only way to determine that is with an impedance analyzer. A tone generator (assuming a decent mic) will only show you the frequencies reinforced by your vehicle, but those have nothing to do with system or box resonance.
