D_boy Need Advice - Pop through Speakers
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
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From: Wichita KS
D_boy Need Advice - Pop through Speakers
When I turn on my Wipers I get a pop through the stereo. I am thinking I need to find a new place to ground the radio but wanted get your opinion. I used the same power and ground as the factory radio for my after market unit.
cc
cc
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
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From: Wichita KS
Two actually, one RF Punch 400a for the front speakers and one Kenwood KAC-8101D for teh sub.
I purchased one of those things to take out alternator whine and it did a pretty good job of that.
I don't know what a ground loop isolator is though.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,359
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From: Mundelein Illinois
It is a Jensen MPA6611X 4 channel unit 18 Watts RMS@4ohms.
Two actually, one RF Punch 400a for the front speakers and one Kenwood KAC-8101D for teh sub.
I purchased one of those things to take out alternator whine and it did a pretty good job of that.
I don't know what a ground loop isolator is though.
Two actually, one RF Punch 400a for the front speakers and one Kenwood KAC-8101D for teh sub.
I purchased one of those things to take out alternator whine and it did a pretty good job of that.
I don't know what a ground loop isolator is though.
Last edited by spedaleden; Feb 25, 2008 at 06:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
Likes: 61
From: Wichita KS
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 57
From: Mundelein Illinois
Ground loop isolator goes in line with the RCA cables. You plug these into the RCA's from the radio and then plug your RCA's from the amps to the isolators. You can pick these up at radio shack.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Wichita KS
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Team Owner
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From: Columbia Missouri
If that doesn't solve your problem an easy fix is running your own power and ground wires from the battery to the head unit, and using a relay to power on the head unit. Tap into the 12V constant line for the relay, and trigger it with a switched source like the one you are already using for the head unit's switched input.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
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From: Wichita KS
If that doesn't solve your problem an easy fix is running your own power and ground wires from the battery to the head unit, and using a relay to power on the head unit. Tap into the 12V constant line for the relay, and trigger it with a switched source like the one you are already using for the head unit's switched input.
I do happen to have some relays left over from an aborted headlight project when I had a C5.
Thanks DB, I'll keep that in mind.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
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From: Wichita KS
Ok, I plugged in the ground loop isolator an it cut out my left channel and introduced alternator whine in place of it.
When I put the regular cable back in everything was back to normal.
The isolator did significantly reduce the pop from my wiper switch but at quite a cost.
Looks like I need to run the head unit ground back to the same location as the amplifiers.
Anything else I should do? Do I need to wire a relay in?
When I put the regular cable back in everything was back to normal.
The isolator did significantly reduce the pop from my wiper switch but at quite a cost.
Looks like I need to run the head unit ground back to the same location as the amplifiers.
Anything else I should do? Do I need to wire a relay in?
Le Mans Master
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From: Fernandina Beach FL
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There are three ways that your car stereo gets noise-
1)Radiated through the air (“radiated noise”)
2)Induced -as a difference in voltages that reach each component ("ground loop noise”).
3)Line noise or “power line noise“
How to diagnose? Run a power and ground DIRECTLY to the battery for the radio & amp. if you still get a "pop" my guess is it's radiated through the air-Since fiberglass is a really bad at shielding. If it's not a pain try MOVING the radio out of the dash-or push any harness AWAY from the radio. If this solves it you can wire tie the harness up from the radio. If you still have a pop-you might want to try a noise filter at the wiper's power source. It sounds as though you DON'T have a ground loop problem.
Richard
1)Radiated through the air (“radiated noise”)
2)Induced -as a difference in voltages that reach each component ("ground loop noise”).
3)Line noise or “power line noise“
How to diagnose? Run a power and ground DIRECTLY to the battery for the radio & amp. if you still get a "pop" my guess is it's radiated through the air-Since fiberglass is a really bad at shielding. If it's not a pain try MOVING the radio out of the dash-or push any harness AWAY from the radio. If this solves it you can wire tie the harness up from the radio. If you still have a pop-you might want to try a noise filter at the wiper's power source. It sounds as though you DON'T have a ground loop problem.
Richard
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Columbia Missouri
Running the head unit's constant 12V and ground to the battery is an easy task, and the relay to turn on the head unit is only a precaution, taking any harness noise out of the loop. By using a relay, you're only using the harness wire to trigger the relay, which gives the head units switched power directly from the battery.
Using an IGN lead to turn the head unit on, might leave you open to the same interference you are battling now.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
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From: Wichita KS
Thanks guys. I guess I do have the option of leaving it as it is and living with the wiper pop on those very rare occassions that they are used.
By the way, I'm sure I forgot to mention it but the pop comes in when I turn the wipers off, not on.
cc
By the way, I'm sure I forgot to mention it but the pop comes in when I turn the wipers off, not on.
cc