This is a long thread the point of which is that after connecting all the components, the amp'ed rear speakers are softer than the fronts and that with the rears just resting temporarily on the decklid. Balance is at midpoint, green light is lit on the amp, crossover is at full and all the dials are at factory. So ... can someone point out the obvious?

The long story is that after starting out with a minor repair to the seatbelt retractor, I ended-up with so many "while-Im'-at-it's" that the dashboard and guage bezel ended-up coming out with the carpeting and I figured I might as well replace the speakers. After buying a set of infinity's for the front I cam across a thread on this site and decided to jump-in with an amp and shallow speakers for the kick panel. But ... after physically seeing how they'd mount in the kick panel with my 6' frame and having a stick shift, I realized there wasn't enough room. I also purchased them at the lowest cost from an internet company that doesn't take returns so I'm stuck with my coaxial & amp choice to use in the rear.

As to mounting, since I have the convertible top and I drive with the top down, I first have to put the top back in the car and then make some kind of custom enclosure so the coaxials sit between the top-down mode and the seats. First I want to get the wiring set, though.

Custom Autosound USA-6 Head Unit: 60watts/channel, 240watts/system. Has the look of an original unit with modern electronics and the I-pod jack.

Cadence TX-1502: 2 channel amp with dials set at factory and crossover mode in "Full". (I have no idea what the book is saying about what these do)

Front Speakers: Infinity 6422cfp 4x6 rated 135w peak and 45w RMS. Says nominal impedance 2.65 but box marked 4-ohms.

Rear Speakers: Polk DB651s 6.5" coaxial rated 165w peak and 55w continuous. Says nominal impedance is 4 ohms.

Wiring is: All speaker connections are soldered. Used a kit with 8-guage power & ground with ground going to the large sheet metal behind the seats forming the divider to the back storage area. Remote amp turn-on is 16-guage from head unit. Both amp and head unit are wired directly to the horn relay terminal with an in-line 60A AGH fuse. I didn't choose the fuse, it came with a wiring kit and I think it should be lower.

 

first off you shoudl run power straight to the battery

did you turn the gain up at all on your amp

 

Since the battery has side mount terminals, I'm guessing I'd have to replace the entire crimp terminal in order to get a a solid connection as the screw is countersunk and you can't just put a ring terminal on it.

 

go to autoparts store they sell side terminal adapaters so u can add wires