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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 06:45 PM
  #21  
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Default Dead as a doornail

3 days without driving, t,w,th. Tried to start today, and it is gone!

it wont even take a jump this time. I bought a charger to try and charge it over night. The guy at the autozone store told me that they probably didnt ground the amp properly and that is what is causing the issue.

Thoughts?

What is the best place to ground the amp?

Thanks,

Steve
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by srabin
3 days without driving, t,w,th. Tried to start today, and it is gone!

it wont even take a jump this time. I bought a charger to try and charge it over night. The guy at the autozone store told me that they probably didnt ground the amp properly and that is what is causing the issue.

Thoughts?

What is the best place to ground the amp?

Thanks,

Steve
You got a drain somewhere. Where is you amp installed?
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 10:27 PM
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Default amp install

Here is a pic.

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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 11:47 PM
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On the passenger side, there is a perfect spot for ground. You need to remove the plastic over from the side of the door. The one that goes from the rear speaker panel to the door still.

Once you take the piece off, you will see a ground wire bolted in. You can tap into that one. There might be one also on the drivers side, but I don't remember. Ideally they say the ground should not be more than 3ft.

Also, not sure how you car is wired up. I would check to make sure that the amp remote is on accessory mode (or remote from the hu).

Are you running OEM headunit or after-market?
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 11:50 PM
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I have an aftermarket panasonic strada.
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 11:52 PM
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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by srabin
I have an aftermarket panasonic strada.
Another thing you might want to double check is the complete HU wiring.

Pull out the HU and see what is wired at constant, accessory and remote and check all the grounds.

The only wires that should be constant 12v should be:
Yellow to interface then to HU
XM should be yellow
Chime module should be yellow

Accessory
HU turn on from interface
Steering wheel control
Any bypass video (if there is)
camera (if there is)


Not sure what accessories or what your setup is..but I would also check the grounds. Make sure you don't get any static sounds from the RCA (AMP).
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Old Apr 19, 2008 | 04:14 PM
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Default latest..

I bought a battery charger to charge the battery. The battery wont even take a charge while it is connected to the car. When I remove the battery from the car, it takes a charge..

Does that give anymore clues?

Steve
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Old Apr 19, 2008 | 11:47 PM
  #29  
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a few things a bad amp ground isnt gonna kill your battery

there should be a light on ur amps somewhere showing its on does it actually turn off when the car turns off

does the radio turn off when the car turns off
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 12:44 AM
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Radio and amps are off when the car is off. The green lights on the amp turn off when the car is off. THe HU is off when the car is off.

Steve
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 01:07 AM
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id charge battery put it back in, pull the fuse out under the hood for the amps let car sit a few days and see wtf happens

theres no reason u should have a dying battery if ur amps and radio are turning off
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 07:15 AM
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Try this



1) First make sure that the positive and negative terminals are fully tightened.

2) Fully charge the battery.

3) Pull the 15 amp fuse form the passenger foot well. This will shut off all power to the HU and the remote amp.


If the battery still dies after a few days, then you will know it has nothing to do with the HU and amp wires.
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 08:59 AM
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Thanks guys.
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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Default Update

Ok-

I charged the battery. Car started. I attached the cable that powers the amps, but i removed the fuse on that cable.

I'll let the car sit for a few days and see what happens.

Wish me luck,

Steve
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 03:08 PM
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I have an 07 LMB with 2 amps. 4 ga pos and 4 ga neg wires to each amp. No Big 3. My original stock battery has been drained several times while working on the car with doors open. I fully charge the battery with all the cables disconnected. No problems starts every time.
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 04:55 PM
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1)

You said with the battery in the car, it won't charge.

How are you charing the battery when its on the car?

Try charing directly to the positive and negative terminals of the battery.


2) You might have a drain from the HU and it's accessories, not just the amp.

You might also want to try the HU fuse.
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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For now, I am going to try the amp fuse, this way I can either pinpoint it, or eliminate it.

When I charged the battery, it said not to hook up the negative to the negative while in the car. It said negative to ground.

Whats the risk if I go positive to positive and negative to negative?

I though about it, but erred on the cautious side.

Thanks,

Steve
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Old Apr 20, 2008 | 06:04 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by srabin
For now, I am going to try the amp fuse, this way I can either pinpoint it, or eliminate it.

When I charged the battery, it said not to hook up the negative to the negative while in the car. It said negative to ground.

Whats the risk if I go positive to positive and negative to negative?

I though about it, but erred on the cautious side.

Thanks,

Steve
They say the same when jump starting the car. Maybe some extra precaution.

I have done the jump start and charing from the battery, knock on wood it's good.

Your charger might not be touching the proper ground. In the engine compartment. There is a bolt with ground wires attached to it. Try using the same ground.

Regardless of what is draining, you should be able to charge your battery in the car.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 09:54 AM
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Steve,

When you 'jump' or charge a battery, they say to connect [+] first at the battery, and [-] last at a ground point. The reason being: when a battery is dead/dying it has the ability to release gasses. These gasses can be ignited by a spark... and when connecting a dead battery to a good voltage source, there is a very real possibility to have a spark.

So to err on the side of caution is safe.

In your case, if you were to first connect the battery charger, then plug it in, I would bet you would be fine. The Optima Yellow Top is designed using Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) technology and is (for the most part) sealed. It doesn't 'out-gas' like a regular lead-acid battery will. There are vents in the battery that can allow it to gas if needed, but that will only happen under high-current events.

I'm curious to see what kind of interface devices your installer used to put your new HU into your car. Perhaps there is a problem with the interface device that is causing the drain?!?!

Moving through the components step by step is a good idea. Removing the fuse and eliminating the amps from the equation is a good start. I'd also do as 805Z06 recommended and check out the HU connections.

Good luck.

Mark

Originally Posted by srabin
For now, I am going to try the amp fuse, this way I can either pinpoint it, or eliminate it.

When I charged the battery, it said not to hook up the negative to the negative while in the car. It said negative to ground.

Whats the risk if I go positive to positive and negative to negative?

I though about it, but erred on the cautious side.

Thanks,

Steve
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 805Z06

Regardless of what is draining, you should be able to charge your battery in the car.
I agree, except for one thing: The battery charger design.

If his charger is too small and the battery is completely dead, it will not charge the battery properly. A 2 amp trickle charger won't do in this case. (I don't know what charger he has, just throwing that out there...)

If his charger has short circuit protection, then it's possible that the charger is 'seeing' a fault and not allowing the output to turn on.

Once the battery is charged and installed back in the car, I would be curious to see what happens when he puts the battery charger back on the car. If the battery charger has an Ampere meter, we might be able to detect the current that is being 'drained' by the suspect device.

If so, we could then start pulling fuses until the current drops... indicating where the 'fault' is located.

Just my two cents.

Mark
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