Dying Battery
it wont even take a jump this time. I bought a charger to try and charge it over night. The guy at the autozone store told me that they probably didnt ground the amp properly and that is what is causing the issue.
Thoughts?
What is the best place to ground the amp?
Thanks,
Steve

it wont even take a jump this time. I bought a charger to try and charge it over night. The guy at the autozone store told me that they probably didnt ground the amp properly and that is what is causing the issue.
Thoughts?
What is the best place to ground the amp?
Thanks,
Steve

Once you take the piece off, you will see a ground wire bolted in. You can tap into that one. There might be one also on the drivers side, but I don't remember. Ideally they say the ground should not be more than 3ft.
Also, not sure how you car is wired up. I would check to make sure that the amp remote is on accessory mode (or remote from the hu).
Are you running OEM headunit or after-market?

Pull out the HU and see what is wired at constant, accessory and remote and check all the grounds.
The only wires that should be constant 12v should be:
Yellow to interface then to HU
XM should be yellow
Chime module should be yellow
Accessory
HU turn on from interface
Steering wheel control
Any bypass video (if there is)
camera (if there is)
Not sure what accessories or what your setup is..but I would also check the grounds. Make sure you don't get any static sounds from the RCA (AMP).
Does that give anymore clues?
Steve
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
there should be a light on ur amps somewhere showing its on does it actually turn off when the car turns off
does the radio turn off when the car turns off
theres no reason u should have a dying battery if ur amps and radio are turning off

1) First make sure that the positive and negative terminals are fully tightened.
2) Fully charge the battery.
3) Pull the 15 amp fuse form the passenger foot well. This will shut off all power to the HU and the remote amp.
If the battery still dies after a few days, then you will know it has nothing to do with the HU and amp wires.
I charged the battery. Car started. I attached the cable that powers the amps, but i removed the fuse on that cable.
I'll let the car sit for a few days and see what happens.
Wish me luck,
Steve

You said with the battery in the car, it won't charge.
How are you charing the battery when its on the car?
Try charing directly to the positive and negative terminals of the battery.
2) You might have a drain from the HU and it's accessories, not just the amp.
You might also want to try the HU fuse.
When I charged the battery, it said not to hook up the negative to the negative while in the car. It said negative to ground.
Whats the risk if I go positive to positive and negative to negative?
I though about it, but erred on the cautious side.
Thanks,
Steve

When I charged the battery, it said not to hook up the negative to the negative while in the car. It said negative to ground.
Whats the risk if I go positive to positive and negative to negative?
I though about it, but erred on the cautious side.
Thanks,
Steve
I have done the jump start and charing from the battery, knock on wood it's good.
Your charger might not be touching the proper ground. In the engine compartment. There is a bolt with ground wires attached to it. Try using the same ground.
Regardless of what is draining, you should be able to charge your battery in the car.
When you 'jump' or charge a battery, they say to connect [+] first at the battery, and [-] last at a ground point. The reason being: when a battery is dead/dying it has the ability to release gasses. These gasses can be ignited by a spark... and when connecting a dead battery to a good voltage source, there is a very real possibility to have a spark.
So to err on the side of caution is safe.
In your case, if you were to first connect the battery charger, then plug it in, I would bet you would be fine. The Optima Yellow Top is designed using Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) technology and is (for the most part) sealed. It doesn't 'out-gas' like a regular lead-acid battery will. There are vents in the battery that can allow it to gas if needed, but that will only happen under high-current events.
I'm curious to see what kind of interface devices your installer used to put your new HU into your car. Perhaps there is a problem with the interface device that is causing the drain?!?!
Moving through the components step by step is a good idea. Removing the fuse and eliminating the amps from the equation is a good start. I'd also do as 805Z06 recommended and check out the HU connections.
Good luck.
Mark
When I charged the battery, it said not to hook up the negative to the negative while in the car. It said negative to ground.
Whats the risk if I go positive to positive and negative to negative?
I though about it, but erred on the cautious side.
Thanks,
Steve
If his charger is too small and the battery is completely dead, it will not charge the battery properly. A 2 amp trickle charger won't do in this case. (I don't know what charger he has, just throwing that out there...)
If his charger has short circuit protection, then it's possible that the charger is 'seeing' a fault and not allowing the output to turn on.
Once the battery is charged and installed back in the car, I would be curious to see what happens when he puts the battery charger back on the car. If the battery charger has an Ampere meter, we might be able to detect the current that is being 'drained' by the suspect device.
If so, we could then start pulling fuses until the current drops... indicating where the 'fault' is located.
Just my two cents.
Mark












